The bearings need to be new to coat, I prefer to coat new parts, to get the oil out of used parts require extra process and cost.
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'95 Engine build
- Thread starter SnowDrift
- Start date
SnowDrift
Ultra Conservative. ULTRA!
What bearing brand is recommended? It sounds like I need to wait until I have the caps off and can check the OD on the journals before ordering them so I know what size in case they need to be -.001" or so. Is that right?
Yea, the size is on the backs.... No size means standard, then .013, and .026 metric , or .0005, .001 thou. I don't use plastigauge but if you don't have pression gauges that might work.
SnowDrift
Ultra Conservative. ULTRA!
TSP, is this what you mean? If so, I don't understand how to apply.
It seems like measuring would be less costly. I'm comfortable with the mics I have - used to use them for a living all day every day. From what I understand about using plastigauge, I would have to buy a sacrificial set of studs just to get a reading on the thread once the caps were removed, since they're TTY.
It seems like measuring would be less costly. I'm comfortable with the mics I have - used to use them for a living all day every day. From what I understand about using plastigauge, I would have to buy a sacrificial set of studs just to get a reading on the thread once the caps were removed, since they're TTY.
Search for a bore gauge... Mics for the od of crank, mains and rods, zero the bore gauge to the mic measurement, use the bore gauge to see how many thousands the difference is.... I could explain it better on the phone...
You can use the new tty bolts until you put stress on them running the motor and they get heat cycles on them, I highly doubt the factory used new bolts every time they loosened the caps during the manufacturer process...
Dial Type Cylinder Bore Gauge Kit 2-6in Range
Precisely measures cylinderbore wear; 2
www.eastwood.com
SnowDrift
Ultra Conservative. ULTRA!
I found this same video today after reading some of the posts here to try to get a better handle on it. Thanks! Thanks for the link on the bore gauge.
I'm pretty sure I understand the process. I just hadn't heard of pression gauge before, so it wasn't clear to me. I thought it was a typo at first, but then when I found the part with the search term, I didn't see how I could use it for the measurements.
SnowDrift
Ultra Conservative. ULTRA!
I've found that it looks like the timing case is the same with the engine using the DS4 and the DB2 (Incidentally, I don't think I mentioned it nor do the earlier photos show this, but the donor HMMWV engine was equipped with mechanical pump for some reason). Inside, though, I found a difference where there is a plate behind the gear on the injection pump. The one with the tool box showing through the opening is my '95 and the other is the donor. What is this plate and do I use it going forward, assuming I continue forward with my factory DS4 setup? I am making the assumption this is either an update or something just for the DB2, but really have no idea. The last photo shows the plate once it is out.
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SnowDrift
Ultra Conservative. ULTRA!
I noticed, too, that the harmonic balancers are clocked differently in relation to the keyway. Is this something I need to be concerned about or that I need to keep in mind when replacing? Here they are side by side. Notice my attempt at a line from the keyway, through the center, then to the mass on the opposite side:
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SnowDrift
Ultra Conservative. ULTRA!
SnowDrift
Ultra Conservative. ULTRA!
How do I remove the lower gear for the timing chain set? I've seen a couple guys mention heating, but that doesn't sound right to me. Two jaw puller maybe? Lots of slack in donor motor chain, but I haven't actually measured. Just enough that I was surprised.
Well the first thing I see is in the pic they are 180 deg off, both are not orientated the same, that makes it look very different to the eye...
Are you going to balance the motor ?? If so take both and if needed the machine will tell the truth...
That's a baffle, I use it, some 6.2's and hummer's have the cdr in a different place and use a different oil fill tube...
reason for my choice - will not pick up oil like the screen in the valve cover does, I use a good catch can, looks better...
See pic...
Just a newer design, it doesn't matter what is used if you don't need the electronic one...
LOL.... the military was smart, they never used a DS4, PMD fail in the field, burn any oil you pore into it, etc....
And one other thing about the balancer's, DB2 = long snout , DS4 = short snout and reluctor....
And on the crank gear, why remove it ? The gears aren't what loosens up or ware, the chain is, and chain can be purchased by themself.... unless you are going the gear drive route, if so screw the bolt in the crank and use a puller and a little heat if needed..
SnowDrift
Ultra Conservative. ULTRA!
Yes, it will be getting balanced. I studied it for quite a while yesterday before I convinced myself they were different. I drew the line to try to show that. I'll look at it here again in a little bit. I understand what you're saying about them 180 off in the photo.
I have that fill neck from donor motor, too. What does the end result look like with the catch can? I had planned on using factory CDR, but am not locked into it.
I have the reluctor on both engines, but didn't take a picture after I took off the balancers.
If I use the chain again, am I going to have to plan to replace again in 30,000 miles vs gears? I don't plan to tear this apart again if all goes well. At one point in time I was thinking you mentioned favoring gears.
I have that fill neck from donor motor, too. What does the end result look like with the catch can? I had planned on using factory CDR, but am not locked into it.
My Provent 200 will mount on a bracket on the d/s fender, I'll route the hoses where they fit and look best, I don't like piling junk on top of everything...
I have the reluctor on both engines, but didn't take a picture after I took off the balancers.
All crank newer crank gears have the reluctor now, wasn't sure what year your motor was...
If I use the chain again, am I going to have to plan to replace again in 30,000 miles vs gears? I don't plan to tear this apart again if all goes well. At one point in time I was thinking you mentioned favoring gears.
Correct, and I do like gears, BUT I HIGHLY RECOMMEND THINGS BE CHECKED WITH A DEGREE WHEEL, I can't go into details but I just found out a dot is in the wrong place and destroyed a P400 motor in Canada, NEVER BOLT ON ANY AFTERMARKET ITEM WITHOUT CHECKING, the person asked no more details be given out but the pics I have are proof...
My Provent 200 will mount on a bracket on the d/s fender, I'll route the hoses where they fit and look best, I don't like piling junk on top of everything...
I have the reluctor on both engines, but didn't take a picture after I took off the balancers.
All crank newer crank gears have the reluctor now, wasn't sure what year your motor was...
If I use the chain again, am I going to have to plan to replace again in 30,000 miles vs gears? I don't plan to tear this apart again if all goes well. At one point in time I was thinking you mentioned favoring gears.
Correct, and I do like gears, BUT I HIGHLY RECOMMEND THINGS BE CHECKED WITH A DEGREE WHEEL, I can't go into details but I just found out a dot is in the wrong place and destroyed a P400 motor in Canada, NEVER BOLT ON ANY AFTERMARKET ITEM WITHOUT CHECKING, the person asked no more details be given out but the pics I have are proof...