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94 Chevy K2500 6.5 Multiple Codes Present

Where is the ground for the glowplug relay? If it's the ground at the back of the intake on the passenger side, I've already cleaned and fixed it.

At this point the ground does not matter. It's the very small black wire in the center of the control connector. It, the ground, works because you get a GP light and relay clicks, at least sometimes, and you testing the ground isn't going to help you fix it. (It takes a wiggle test and following each and every wire of the 3 in the diagram...)

You can do two things at this point:
1) Most likely at the time: Throw a GP relay at it. The smoke and code from the ECM indicate it's an intermittent contact: doesn't work all the time.
2) If a part doesn't fix it take it to an automotive electrical shop or friend who knows Trons. For an Intermittent connection somewhere. I suggest this because IF it isn't a bad GP relay you have an intermittent connection that is beyond your ability to track down at this point. Education on this truck will be expensive as seen in burned out starters, dead batteries, broken engine destroying glow plugs when you bypass the relay and instant glow plug and engine death via the use of ether starting fluid.

You can put self limiting glow plugs in: all 8 including the real bastard ones to get to on the passenger side. Then you can safely bypass the GP system without non-self limiting plugs breaking off in the engine.

Given the risk of damage glow plugs can do to an engine I suggest you ask yourself how much frustration and cost you want to throw at your education of electronics. A GP relay is a safe slam dunk and I feel you have done what you can to make sure before throwing a part at it.
 
I'm going to replace that GP relay and go from there. Thank you for the info! Not too familiar with diesels so I appreciate it!
 
So I am getting power to the ground wire side of the relay (with key on) and all of my glowplugs have power as well. I'm kinda at a loss now. Maybe the relay is working?
 
So I am getting power to the ground wire side of the relay (with key on) and all of my glowplugs have power as well. I'm kinda at a loss now. Maybe the relay is working?

Do you get a Glow Plug lamp at each and every cold start up: Specifically the smokey startups? DTC 29 - Glow Plug Relay Fault as mentioned several times ONLY pops up when the ECM turns the relay on and doesn't see +12V from the Glow Plug side of the relay. Same wire the ECM sees powers the Glow Plug light on the dash (Or wait to start, or the lamp symbol, it's Phoenix, AZ I hardly ever see it long...)

It can be intermittent as mentioned from burned up GP relay contacts. Or intermittent connection.

Did the glow plugs have 2 ohms or less resistance each?
 
Yes I do get a glowplug lamp at each and every cold start up. It always comes on. It only comes on for about 8-10 seconds though (depending on how old it is outside), it seldomly if ever flashes again after that period of it staying solid. Didn't check the ohms, used a test light to see if the glowplugs were getting power to them or if the harness had power.
 
The ohms test on glowplugs is proven a faulty test. It will show when one is blown open, but and other reading can be chucked out the window. I’ve tested plugs that had proper resistance yet on a bench test could barely get to 200f - worthless. So don’t bother with it.

Reading resistance in a heater isn’t accurate testing because as the heating element gets contamination and increases the resistance. But as the element particles break off the resistance lowers. So is the reading of ‘X’ really the proper amount of heating element, or 75% element with 25% contamination from the new fuel burning on it building up? See when there was a lot sulfur in the fuel, it allowed carbon to be shed from the glowplugs. But nowdays, pull a glowplug and wipe it on your white tshirt to see is it shed all the carbon? Nope. Used to be plugs had a tiny amount of surface carbon. Now they all get it imbedded in there. And where does carbon read on the conductor scale? The old clamp on ammeter has same issue of false reading since E=IR and that resistance can be either element or contamination.


Want to know if plugs are bad? Pull them and bench test them, period. Otherwise replace them.

Ok rant over. Sorry.

Power to the ground side of relay? Hmm. My sparkysense is tingling. Kirchhoff’s law or loose connection...
 
Well, changed out the glowplug relay and the codes went away instantly! So far so good, haven't had the intermittent check engine light since. Although, the glowplug light doesn't come on as long now as it did before even after sitting for awhile. Is that normal?
 
A lot depends on the ambient temperature. Colder temps will hold the GP light on for longer and even cool temps, after the engine has been run to a warmish state, the GP lamp will not stay on for as long.
If it fires right up on the first start of the day then it should be good to go.
 
That's what I wondered. Thanks for the info and help everyone! I'll see in the morning if it still runs rough and smokes a lot. Just replaced the relay today so haven't had a chance to see if it still does or not but all codes are gone.
 
When I start the 2000 K3500 on these cooler mornings, there is a fair amount of smoke and the engine runs a little rough until about the third time the GP lamp Illuminates, then the combustion is beginning to warm the cylinders and the firing smoothes out to nice and steady.
 
Oh okay that's good to know. It was doing it even in 90 degree weather before it started getting colder. The next thing I wanna do is a cold air intake. Dont wanna spend the ridiculous amount of money for the aftermarket ones, so I'm gonna make my own. Would I be able to use the bottom of an airbox on a 1500 or 2500 gasser if it's a 96 or up? Then use the stock rubber boot hose on my turbo and just add a 3" black 90 degree PVC tube and put a filter on the end? I've seen some pics in other threads from doing some searching and it looks pretty straightforward. Also, I know it's probably not recommended, but I wanna do a 5" straight pipe exhaust or 4" to 8" smokestacks. Not really sure what gains I'd get from that but I think its be cool! I wanna get a #9 resistor for my PMD as well (have #7 currently). What would adding that do? Would it make any difference? Do I need to do any mods to be able to do that? Would it increase fuel economy and hp? Thanks!
 
I dont know what style of air box Your truck has nor do I know if the K47 airbox will fit, if You can find a K47 airbox I have read that they are the best option for Our trucks. They are true cold air intake and bring air in from between the fender and the fender well, routed through from the front of the trucks grill area, I think, if I remember correctly.
I`m sure someone will correct me if I am wrong, at least I hope they does. LOL
 
She started up normally this morning, little bit of smoke but normal start. But when I started it, check engine light came on and stayed on for code 36. I'm assuming it'll probably go away after the truck is warmed up? After I replaced the relay yesterday, all I was getting was the normal code 12 all day yesterday. Any thoughts?
 
From what I’ve read a 5” exhaust on a 6.5 don’t gain you anything more than a 4” exhaust does.

The gas engine 96 and newer air filter box has the hole opening on the back side instead of the front but you could probably make it work somehow I’m sure.

on the #9 resistor. The different resistors don’t make any noticeable change to the feel of the pants. It is only a very small fuel difference in the resistors.
 
Thanks for the info. 96 and up has airbox won't work because they are flipped around for the filter compared to the K47 airbox. I wanna do a 5" exhaust just cause I think itd be cool and unique and loud as hell which is what I'm going for. Ive got the #7 resistor right now and my truck blows alot of black smoke at times. Would a lower one cause it to not do it that much? My vacuum pump and waste gate solenoid and everything are working so I know those aren't the cause. Love your signature by your username by the way!
 
Hook a vacuum gauge to the vacuum pump and verify that You are pulling vacuum and that it is the proper inched of vacuum for Your altitude. I`m at about 2500 feet above sea level, max vacuum here is about 26 inch. Also, disconnect the rod from the actuator and manually open and close the waste gate to be sure it moves freely and with ease. Vacuum pump test the waste gate actuator and verify that it is not leaking down. There should be no black smoke if all of the systems are properly functioning.
I pack a spare waste gate vacuum solenoid and also a home made manual waste gate turbo master just in case I am on the road and cant diagnose and make the waste gate function under the vacuum system.
Engine oil contaminated with raw diesel fuel and soot is mighty rough on bearings and internal engine components.
 
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