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94 Chevy K2500 6.5 Multiple Codes Present

I also think that there are several Snap on and Mac scan tools that will read IP timing too.
I tried the local community college here first, they did have only a Snap On scan tool but it would not show the IP timing.
If there is a college near You, that too might be an option, they`d maybe even change out the IP if it came down to that too, under Your supervision of course.
 
We get that... "Forgotten diesels".

Stanadyne shops like "Perkins" may be a lead you can look into. Ask the junkyard who installs the pumps or buys a lot of them maybe.

If the lube helps use it. Intermitant codes are a PIA and most PMD's screw up and or die without a code.

Meanwhile don't look for perfection if you don't have too on something that is this old plus runs and drives. Quick way to burn a bunch of budget...
 
Very good point. It burns little, if any oil as well. It's a great running truck! The new 4" exhaust definitely added power and made it way louder! It's getting a new clutch this weekend. Meanwhile, thinking the heater core or blower motor might be going. When I turn the heat on inside the truck even after it's at operating temp, there's not really any heat that comes out and what does come out does not feel hot at all. Is that the heater core or plugged up blower motor?
 
Add the lube straight to the tank. You don’t have to add to filter. 2 stroke works wonders also.

The ip is worn most likely because people weren’t adding the lube. Old diesel fuel lubed by itself. Depending on year, ford diesel should have lube added also.

The worn ip will make the pmd burn out quicker along with the issue you are having.

Have you put a fuel Pressure gauge right at the ip inlet yet? Having higher pressure instead of minimum will help also- but dont get over 17psi. 14 is perfectly fine on any ds4.

I wonder if there is anyone on the forum that lives anywhere near you that can time it, figure thats worth a couple hundred bucks to both of you.

Changing an ip isn’t way hard to learn. How deep is your engine skill level? Look at the manual in stickies to see what is involved. The 2 lower ip nuts is hardest part imo.
 
Okay thanks for the info! Yeah I know there is, or was, a guy on here who lives near me because I've seen past posts from him from about 9 years ago. My fuel is 15psi, I checked it. Light hasn't come back on and off at all today so far, only this morning on the way to work when it was 30 degrees and then it went off and stayed off after I was almost to work. Surprisingly didnt come on when I left work like it usually does. No check engine light at all upon startup or after driving like usual.
 
So I tried to replace the clutch, got halfway through and realized i couldn't and put everything back together. When I went to start the truck the clutch pedal was extremely stiff and wouldn't move. It finally moved enough to where I could start the truck and then the pedal went all the way to the floor. The rod on the back of the pedal that goes into a little hole on the firewall is not in the hole and looks bent at the top. The one in my other truck is straight. Is that fixable?
 
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