92 buildup and questions

[vdb11]

Oh I see, interesting! While #8 was really low at 150 psi, the others were not the best either. I think my highest of all of them was 380, most were 330-360, way over the 10% max variation that's preferred.

I will have to see on the water pump, you make a very good point, I wanted to upgrade the pump anyway from original so why not do it right the first time. So are you saying you can run a Dmax or 9 blade fan on the 97 pump too? Does that require a different clutch?

Thanks again guys

 

[buddy]

I will have to see on the water pump, you make a very good point, I wanted to upgrade the pump anyway from original so why not do it right the first time. So are you saying you can run a Dmax or 9 blade fan on the 97 pump too? Does that require a different clutch?

The 9-blade steel would bolt right up to a stock clutch, and you might be able to find it in a junkyard or used online or another member. The Dmax fan can be coerced onto a stock clutch, but there are conversion clutches made to put the larger plastic DMax fan on either the 4-bolt water pump or the spin on type. They are usually HD or SD clutches, which means when they lock up they actually egage more, like 90% of engine speed, compared to like 70% of a standard clutch. So the HD clutches will also last longer. The clutches wear and the fluid could leak or burn.

 

[vdb11]

Oh ok thanks! I think I will probably go the stock clutch and 9 blade fan for now unless I find a good deal on a conversion clutch and fan.

What do you guys think about this?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...0315058646&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWAX:IT

I think its what I am looking for. It is over one inch thick and has over 800 pages. It includes info on engine teardown for the 6.5 and 6.2. Seems like a must have to me. Its for a GMC, but that shouldn't matter for what I want it for right?

Also, anyone know where to find a cheap engine stand? The cheapest I can find is about $90 from Advance for a 1,250 lb unit. Thanks!!

 

[bk95td]

The manual is a bit high on price but still worth it. The 9 blade steel fans can be had pretty cheap at junkyards. I've seen them for $20. I run the 97 HO water pumps with the steel 9 blade. Go to car-part.com to search your local junkyards.

 

[vdb11]

how much is a good price? It seems to be the only manual I can find, especially since its for a 92, I think I may get it anyways, it will probably be the best $46 I have ever put into the truck ha. Alright I will check that site, thanks again!

EDIT: How about this one bk?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1992...90280610830QQptZMotorsQ5fManualsQ5fLiterature

It doesn't list 6.5 diesel in it but it lists the 6.2 and it looks just like the other one, its a 1992 manual so I would think it has to cover the 6.5 if it covers the 6.2.

 

[bk95td]

That should be the same as the chevy manual. Yes a better deal. Over the years the best money I've spent on cars and trucks was in buying manuals. The cost of one mistaken repair can be many times the price of a manual. The electrical manuals are worth their weight in gold. The troubleshooting is second to none.

 

[vdb11]

Ha I see what you mean about the manuals, when my dad and I work on our old tractors we are always referencing the manuals. I might order that manual then next week. It would be kinda nice to find a chevrolet manual though, oh well the info is whats important. Thanks again.

I just came home for tonight and my eBay purchases were waiting for me I can't believe how big the HE351VE is compared to a GM turbo, I will have to get a pic up. Its going to take a good bit of work to make it happen but its possible.

Anyways, what do you guys think I can do about holding the mains down? I think instead of block filler I will have a girdle machined, so I need a good way to fasten the mains down. Any thoughts?

 

[turbonator]

Ha I see what you mean about the manuals, when my dad and I work on our old tractors we are always referencing the manuals. I might order that manual then next week. It would be kinda nice to find a chevrolet manual though, oh well the info is whats important. Thanks again.

I just came home for tonight and my eBay purchases were waiting for me I can't believe how big the HE351VE is compared to a GM turbo, I will have to get a pic up. Its going to take a good bit of work to make it happen but its possible.

Anyways, what do you guys think I can do about holding the mains down? I think instead of block filler I will have a girdle machined, so I need a good way to fasten the mains down. Any thoughts?

if you are only going with the centre three, just order a DSG bed frame girdle.... it comes with the studs already.... if you are going 5 pin girdle, you will need to contact ARP for the studs, you will need all the measurements when you talk with them on the phone.... also the DSG girdle is bolt and go, no align boring is necessary.... with the 5 pin, it is suggested to align bore, although we never did and all is good... we will see the difference when we pull the pugg motor out of the dump-truck and change the pan to go in the 3500..... will be a good time to check the 599 for cracks..... after all that motor pulled 30,000lbs lots last year....

 

[vdb11]

Yeah let me know how that goes because I wasn't really planning on getting an align bore. I am going to have a shop make a 5 pin girdle for me most likely. Contacting ARP sounds like a good idea, is that what you guys did? How much was it per stud?

 

[turbonator]

Yeah let me know how that goes because I wasn't really planning on getting an align bore. I am going to have a shop make a 5 pin girdle for me most likely. Contacting ARP sounds like a good idea, is that what you guys did? How much was it per stud?

10.00 per stud, 4.50 per nut, 2.50 per washer, you will need to measure the thickness of the main bolt, also the legnth, and take into account for the thickness of the girdle....

 

[buddy]

$10 per stud! $2.50 per washer!!!!! Wow, and you can get the whole 34 stud head kit for $180

 

[turbonator]

$10 per stud! $2.50 per washer!!!!! Wow, and you can get the whole 34 stud head kit for $180

and the reason they dont sell kits is because the 6.5l has the differing bolt sizes for the outside holes.... and also the variances in girdle thickness.... when we did our girdle, we bought new bolts and jim cut them to fit.... the originals dont grab enough threads to hold good..... maybe for you to go and ask right at the counter they could be cheaper:???: but waayyy up here in the frigid north we get hosed on everything....:mad2:

 

[ak diesel driver]

I know that feeling

 

[vdb11]

turbonator, you mentioned asking at the counter, do you mean for ARP studs?? I didn't know there was anywhere you could do that. What did you get for bolts for the mains? If the studs are that expensive, I may just use good bolts, but again I am open to ideas on this. That really is unfortunate our neighbors to the north have to get hosed on parts, that is not the first time I have heard someone telling me about that. Thanks guys

 

[turbonator]

turbonator, you mentioned asking at the counter, do you mean for ARP studs?? I didn't know there was anywhere you could do that. What did you get for bolts for the mains? If the studs are that expensive, I may just use good bolts, but again I am open to ideas on this. That really is unfortunate our neighbors to the north have to get hosed on parts, that is not the first time I have heard someone telling me about that. Thanks guys

actually i was talking to buddy... he is pretty close to the arp "mothership" he could pass through the door and ask in person..... we used new 12.5 bolts trimmed down to fit.... for all the trouble cutting the bolts and building the girdle, you are farther ahead just to buy the dsg girdle and fill the bottom of your block,( to the bottom of the frost plugs ) with cement...

 

[turbonator]

$10 per stud! $2.50 per washer!!!!! Wow, and you can get the whole 34 stud head kit for $180

if the barrels of the studs are a little smaller they could work.... they are a little too fat to pass through the main caps...

 

[vdb11]

Oh haha sorry turbonator!

Hmm interesting, I have looked at the DSG girdle, I just don't know if I could swallow the $180 and know its not tying all the mains together As for making the girdle, I would probably have a machine shop make it, getting the hole placement exactly right is the only thing that worries me about doing it myself. I don't mind extra time, but I see what you mean for sure, I can't have this motor apart forever.

Does block cement really do anything for strengthening the area around the mains and crank?? You are referring to partially filling the water jackets right?

Thanks again guys

 

[turbonator]

Oh haha sorry turbonator!

Hmm interesting, I have looked at the DSG girdle, I just don't know if I could swallow the $180 and know its not tying all the mains together As for making the girdle, I would probably have a machine shop make it, getting the hole placement exactly right is the only thing that worries me about doing it myself. I don't mind extra time, but I see what you mean for sure, I can't have this motor apart forever.

Does block cement really do anything for strengthening the area around the mains and crank?? You are referring to partially filling the water jackets right?

Thanks again guys

i am sure a machine shop is going to charge you at least 4hrs. labour to make a girdle, maybe more..... facture in the cost of the studs, nuts, and washers(all must be bought as individual pieces, as ARP does not make a kit....) you would be paying the girdle at least twice.... as for the block cement, for sure it adds some rigidity, but more importantly it will change the harmonics of the engine, for the better i am sure.... it will probably give the strength of the 4 bolts missing from the dsg girdle..... for half the price of a custom made girdle, IMO....

 

[robzombie4551]

fasten the mains down. Any thoughts?
if you are only going with the centre three, just order a DSG bed frame girdle.... it comes with the studs already.... if you are going 5 pin girdle, you will need to contact ARP for the studs, you will need all the measurements when you talk with them on the phone.... also the DSG girdle is bolt and go, no align boring is necessary.... with the 5 pin, it is suggested to align bore, although we never did and all is good...

The only girdle worth making or buying is one that ties the main caps into the rail of the block, PERIOD.

All others are a band-aid and some might actually be worse than leaving it stock.

Don't waste money on making or buying one. Ask any reputable machinist and he'll tell you the same thing.

All your doing with a girdle that is mounted to the caps themselves is moving them in unison, which could do more damage.

IT MUST BE TIED TO THE BLOCK, the block won't shift or move.

Look at the p400 motor for proof of a sound design.

Home made crap is just that, crap.

Please don't take my word for it ASK A HIGH PERFORMANCE ORIENTATED MACHINE SHOP.

DSG IS CRAP, show that to a machine shop and they'll laugh at you.

Save your money for mods that work. Sorry for the rant I hate to see people waste money on junk.

 

[vdb11]

OK I see, that makes sense. Hmm, I am going to have to really weigh my options here.. so many choices!

Isn't it true that you need to have machining done past just a regular cylinder hone when you using block filler?

I wish DSG would sell a 5 pin girdle or sell their studs in a kit! Hmm maybe I could contact them.... thanks turbonator, you are making me think