92 buildup and questions

[vdb11]

I never thought of it that way!

Well here is my thought though, the dsg kit only comes with the three outer studs, which as I found out are $6.65 a piece, plus the nuts and washers come in ten packs so I might as well do all ten outer holes, if i buy the dsg kit, I would still need 4 studs so thats $27 plus the nuts an washers. While I would like to have the kit, I think I will just buy the studs and then make my own girdle with angle iron kinda like you guys did.

But now that you mention studs pushing down and bolts pulling up, would putting studs on just the outers stress the caps in anyway since the bolts will still be in the inner holes?

Thanks a bunch guys, you have been a huge help!

 

[buddy]

The difference between bolts and studs is more in how the torqueing happens and not necessarily the direction of force. With a stud you can put them all the way into the threading of the block, and when torqueing you dont have the length of the bolt and stresses of all of those threads ect... where the nut on top is much better application of torque. That is kind of why the torque value could be lower on the nut of the stud. The studs are probably also made out of better metal.

So the right length quality metal bolt will do alright and wont screw anything up with studs on the outside.

 

[vdb11]

Well I was just going to reuse the inner bolts, is that ok?

 

[turbonator]

Well I was just going to reuse the inner bolts, is that ok?

it will be fine, think of it this way, if you just buy the dsg kit you have the 6 outer studs, plus the girdle... just buy your other 2 studs and it is ready to go, and you dont have to spend the money to do a girdle at the machine shop.... when we calculated the cost of building ours by hand and fitting it, it costs around $500.00 without studs.... for the 6.2l i am building now i am just going to order a DSG girdle, easier and we dont have a shop to build anything right now..... and to drop the compression i am using .10 felpro head gaskets, and machined diamond pre-cups, and maybe machine the tops of the pistons like kennedys screamer pistons..... lookin for around 17:1 compression.... going to add 2 volvo wheel loader glow plugs in the intake to help with starting issues..... i want to boost this motor at least 30 psi.... oh yeah almost forgot the block cement...LOL

 

[vdb11]

Haha sounds like it will be sick! Are you putting the VGT on that motor too? I think I will be keeping mine at stock compression for now, as I don't plan to boost much over 20 psi. I just talked to a ARP dealer today and he is going to get the final cost for me on Monday on everything. I am somewhat hoping that the length of these studs will be adequate to use with or without a girdle, so that I will not under the pressure to make one but if I have the time and motivation I can make one, assuming all else goes smoothly....

Yeah I was actually just reading the instructions that came with the Hard-Blok this evening, seems to be a pretty simple process really, I think its going to make a big difference.

So once I get these studs ordered there will only be two major items I still need to address:

-fuel: I will be in contact with a shop next week thats going to be getting some info on a place that can do my IP machining. If it doesn't work out in time I can always put the IP back on the motor, its not like it doesn't work, and I can just take it back off when I get the work done. I will probably max it out if I do that route (keeping egts in mind of course)

-oil cooler lines: I will be going to the local Parker Store and seeing what they have soon.

Everything else is pretty much ready to go once I get the lift and stand from Kory hopefully this weekend. The rebuild is planned to begin on Tuesday, HOPEFULLY thats when it will start.

 

[turbonator]

good luck with the build, and dont forget to check your main webs good for cracking...... also i dont remember, but are you going to deck the block? it is probably a good idea as the bolt hole tend to mushroom outwards... it was crazy when we decked our block how much they were higher than the deck..... also what kind of machining are you planning for your pump?

 

[vdb11]

Alright thanks! I will keep that in mind! If time permits I will get it decked for sure.

As for the IP, I am hoping to get some oversize plungers made as well as having the rotor "bored" out and having the plungers lapped and installed. That project itself is still to be determined. The pump may be going back in the truck for now depending on whether or not I can find a place to do it soon and for a good price.

 

[vdb11]

OK guys, some good news and bad news...

Good news, the motor is out (harder job than I imagined) and now on the stand and ready to be torn apart.

Also, my main studs came in yesterday.

Bad news, I pulled the bellhousing yesterday to find I have a crappy DMF :mad2:

Here is my question, the flywheel appears to be in good shape, no broken springs, and no play between the two masses, they are supposed to spin separately of each other over a small range right??? I noticed I could easily spin the non toothed mass maybe 30 degrees or so independent of the toothed part, which is what is solid mounted to the crankshaft.

Anyways, I hear the DMF doesn't handle extra power too well, but as I was shopping around last night I found a Beck/Arnley clutch set for $110 for the OEM DMF. It seems to convert I will need to spend over $130 for the flywheel and the clutches for the solid flywheel seem to be in the $160-$200 range. I have also read I will need to get a driveshaft with a balance weight on it for the solid flywheel, although I noticed in the description of an ACDelco flywheel that it is already balanced (??) Is it worth it?

I guess my main question is should I trust the DMF and get the less expensive clutch (although a DMF is like $750!) or convert to solid flywheel???

Thanks!