88GMCtruck's 98 Silverado Towpig Build: "Black Fox"

[88gmctruck]

IIRC starting in 96, but it may have been later, GM went to a bigger input shaft on the C3500HD chassis cab, so a guy can run a HD input and clutch and get the big input that way.

you are coming along way quicker than I can even comprehend, stuff is done in days and weeks around here (occasionally months and years :O )

I don't let things sit around. Basically all free time goes into my current project till it's done.

Now I see what you've been busy working on. So, when can I bring my 4500 over for a rebuild?

Once you get the parts, duh.

Your probably right, I dont remember. It was something like if you are swaping trans from one to another you would need the input shaft from one (dont remember sorry)

If you want to convert a GM or Dodge trans between eachother I know you need the bellhousing and input shaft. If you want to run the correct t-case then you also need the mainshaft and tailhousing.

 

[Ed HD]

Looking good! My projects are all on the back burner right now, school and our family's new business have grounded all free time lately. That and I live 2 hours from home at school, too...

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

I know about the syntorque fluid as I just sent my remaining fluid to dieselcash for his. All the specs I seen on it listed were a 80W90 GL-4 synthetic. Many though are using the syncromesh as it is used in the NV3500, NV3550, and the larger NV5600, so they assume that it will also work in the NV4500 and wipe out the synchros.

 

[pronghorntractorworks]

I am beaming with happiness knowing you got a Manual transmission.

only way it would be perfect is if it was a 6.5L and a 2wd and gloss white!

gm guy, you have issues.

 

[88gmctruck]

I know about the syntorque fluid as I just sent my remaining fluid to dieselcash for his. All the specs I seen on it listed were a 80W90 GL-4 synthetic. Many though are using the syncromesh as it is used in the NV3500, NV3550, and the larger NV5600, so they assume that it will also work in the NV4500 and wipe out the synchros.

It is one of the most common failures of this transmission for sure. Unfortunately people think they are doing good with servicing their truck, but in reality it does tons of damage, although not right away. I'm glad this transmission still has all the warning tags on it.

gm guy, you have issues.

He does. 2wd? sheesh.

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Spent the evening putting all the pieces back together. The trans shop forgot to ship my locking 5th gear nut, so I haven't installed the tail housing yet but will tonight.

For the record, these transmissions are really easy to rebuild. Just have to have the right pullers, installers and a press. :lol:

Planning to re-install this in the truck Friday. Then on to other fun mods.

 

[GM Guy]

gm guy, you have issues.

by that statement alone, you should not assume that. but judging by how I just messaged a salvage yard on ebay about whther or not they still had the 6.5L 5spd 2wd dually a NV4500 came from, and if it was for sale and still had a clean title, then yes, I would agree.

but, concerning the stock power of a 6.5L, (and me only able to afford stock power) 5spd and 2wd gets the max amount of what little power is made to the ground out of all configurations, and I can get 11-12 mpg with the goosneck loaded fairly heavy, so there is a method to my madness.


dave, were those 3 NV4500s for parts, or other ones you will be rebuilding?

 

[88gmctruck]

Only two were nv4500s, one was a getrag. The getrag was from my friends 90 Cummins and was shot, so the other nv4500 was it's replacement. And mine was simply rebuilt.

Sent from my TBI 454 powered android device.

 

[88gmctruck]

What a weekend!

Spent Friday night putting the truck back together. Got everything done, trans in, clutch bled, etc. Took it out for a test drive. Everything works well, shifts nice.... Until I try 5th gear. It grinds. Every time.... So I play around with it in the driveway... Even sitting still, 5th grinds..... At this point I was SUPER frustrated. After calming down, I research it and determine I put the shift collar for 5th on backwards so it will not engage the synchro.... That means pull things back apart. At least I only have to pull drivelines, transfercase, and the extension housing for the transmission.

So Saturday morning the 2nd tear down...

Here you can see how I had the shift collar installed.

And how it is supposed to go. Taper faced forward.

Here is why.

The taper side has tapered teeth to engage the synchro.

Put it all together and everything worked right. Transmission drives so nice. So glad to have it back together. Took it on a 250 mile trip to break things in. Unloaded, doing between 70-80 MPH the entire way, netted me 12.8 MPG. Not too shabby honestly.

Once I was back, some of the fun times ensued! Pulled out a few parts from storage and swung by the junkyard for the 50% off labor day sale.

Kodiak Handles

Solid tailgate straps to replace the cables (I don't trust them)

Swapped out the rear armrest for a center console I picked up at the wreckers. They charged me for an "armrest". It was $3.74.

Future project. Steering wheel audio controls. Picked up the wheel with controls and airbag, clockspring, and a second set of controls for about $40

Firewall reel light, and suburban dome lights.

Installed my HVAC with rear defrost to control my heated mirrors.

Once the parts pilfering and collecting was done, I pulled the wheels. They are Accuride wheels. Surprisingly light for a dually.

Decided the splash some black paint on the wheels, rock the chrome caps and no trim rings for the time being.

Then finished things up by installing the power heated signal/parking light tow mirrors and front Kodiak handles (rears are waiting for door rods still), and de-badging the truck.

More things to come. Need to tint the windows, start smoking the lights, and decide on what to do with headlights.

 

[tanman_2006]

Dat's sexy!

I remember the shift collar direction thing. I had an extra tear down for that. Come to think of it, we had a rebuilt NV4500 put in Ol' Blue and it always ground the 3-4, maybe that was the issue? Cant remember and I dont have the tranny infront of me to check

 

[Burning oil]

Kodiaks rear rods are same as what you got on truck now.

 

[88gmctruck]

Dat's sexy!

I remember the shift collar direction thing. I had an extra tear down for that. Come to think of it, we had a rebuilt NV4500 put in Ol' Blue and it always ground the 3-4, maybe that was the issue? Cant remember and I dont have the tranny infront of me to check

Yeah, it really pissed me off. Live and learn!

Kodiaks rear rods are same as what you got on truck now.

The rear door rods are the same between pickup and kodiak? then why are the front doors different? Seems to me like they would need replaced too....

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Ordered up everything for a good tune up: Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel pressure regulator and new bosch injectors.

Current plugs are past their life I'm thinking....

 

[btfarm]

Spark might have been a tad weak on that one...:hihi:

 

[88gmctruck]

I think they MIGHT be the original plugs.

 

[Burning oil]

Rear door linkage is the same on P/U's as Kodiaks fronts. Don't ask me why its been to long.
If you have new rods coming anyway I'd wait til you got them then compair them. Return the new ones if you can/want.

 

[Burning oil]

I just remembered something. All the handles front and rear on a pick up use the same rod as the rear rods on a pick up using Kodiak handles.
So the difference in rods is between Kodiak truck fronts and pick up fronts.
The rear rods from a CC will fit fronts using Kodiaks.

 

[Burning oil]

Sorry I may have had it ass backwards go here http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/sh...HD-Kodiak-door-handles/page2&highlight=kodiak
and read post #69-72
It looks like if you had a set of 4 fronts off a pic up then you could use two for the rear.

I confuse myself :mad2:

 

[88gmctruck]

Well i'm getting my lockrods in the mail today, so i'll probably be taking the doors apart to install them tonight and we shall find out!

 

[88gmctruck]

Rear door lock rods didn't show up yesterday as planned - instead UPS delivered to USPS for final delivery....

Did a few things last night. Gave it a good seafoaming, definitely smoothed the idle out. Also went to work wiring up a trailer connector. I used a Pollak 7 and 4 way combination and wired in a GMT800 style harness plug. This way if the plug ever breaks, I can simply install a new one.

Also hooked the airbags back up. Truck came with a set of firestones but I think there was a compressor or something in there at some point, the lines were dis-connected. Ignore the u-joint splatter :lol:

While I was under there I found the hack splice job where there at one point was slide in camper wiring in the bed. The plug and wiring is history. Instead of cleaning it up now I'll order a plug to put in the hole in the side of the bed and i'll be ready for a camper.

Also removed the add on circuit breaker and battery disconnect. The truck has a factory 2nd battery isolator, so even if the other battery is dead you can start the truck... Why they added a second is beyond me.

And just a random shot. Also a shot next to my friends BRZ. His car's overall length is the wheelbase of my truck.

 

[Burning oil]

As usual, nice work!

 

[DieselCash]

Second battery was probably for the truck camper. Older truck campers always came with 1 battery. Two batteries is more practical for boondocking purposes. Also, most truck campers suck battery juice from the truck they sit in.

Just my $0.02! :thumbsup: