87 land yacht, long term project

[Ed HD]

Looks good!!!

As long as you plan on pulling a gooseneck, not a 5th wheel, there really isn't a length matter, provided you have enough room between the front of the trailer (5th Wheel) and the headache rack/cab.

 

[john65td]

i agree a 6.5 or 6.2 swap is alot cheaper. i spent over 8k on mine by the time all was said and done, but it was over 450hp. did i need that much no but it was fun. and for that amount you could make a really great and fun 6.5.

 

[Burning oil]

Looks like a project I would do :hihi: Can't wait to see more of your project.
It was nice to meet you.
Leroy

 

[red]

Looks good!!!

As long as you plan on pulling a gooseneck, not a 5th wheel, there really isn't a length matter, provided you have enough room between the front of the trailer (5th Wheel) and the headache rack/cab.

Good to know. With how much I chopped off the frame the bed will end up being about 6' long with hanging only a few inches past the end of the frame. Rear of the frame also sits 3" higher since the part I cut off is where chevy curved the frame downwards behind the stock axle location.

Good to finally meet you as well Leroy, hope your suburban project comes together faster than my project is!

Today got the rear part of the frame cleaned up and ready for paint. Letting the 'metal ready' pre-paint stuff that POR 15 has soak in today since it's only about 60F. Hopefully it warms up enough tomorrow to let me paint. Will still need to paint a few small spots (rear crossmember, front spring mounts) later. Next step after that is to box the frame

 

[red]

Have the frame painted except for the rear crossmember now (replacing it after the frame gets boxed) and reinstalled the body mounts. Also have the truck sitting on it's axles again finally! With the rear axle moved so far forward I couldn't use the original shackle mounts without lowering the truck about 4" so I decided to go ahead and do the shackle flip conversion I've been planning to do. Now running 4" shackles for the rear axle and 6" shackles for the front axle so the truck is sitting 1" higher than it was before for now (7" of lift now). Too tall in my opinion but it will wait until the truck is all back together and I decide what suspension I plan to run. Stick with leaf springs or convert to coil springs but that won't be for at least a year. I'd like to bring it down to 4" running 36 or 37"s, should be adequate with the cab clearance I'll be doing and how the drivetrain is tucked up nice and high between the framerails.

Waiting to box the frame until I get the new wires and fuel line run to the back of the truck since they will be secured inside the frame. There are access points that are staying open along the frame so I can access things, and to let the frame drain whatever water/dirt gets in it.

 

[RI Chevy Silveradoman]

Nice. Any more photos to document the progress?

 

[red]

pics or it didn't happen?

In this pic you can see where the front spring hanger was originally and how much I moved it forward.

Pic of the new shackle hanger. Need to enlarge the shackle bolt holes to 9/16"

 

[RI Chevy Silveradoman]

Wow. Looks very solid! You got some very big U-bolts on the back springs. Keep up the great work. :thumbsup:

 

[Ed HD]

Have you looked into a set of re-arched leafs? Those blocks gotta be causing some massive axle wrap, especially once you start towing...

 

[tanman_2006]

Have you looked into a set of re-arched leafs? Those blocks gotta be causing some massive axle wrap, especially once you start towing...

Call Alcan or Deaver. My 3500# deavers gave me bout 5" of lift.

 

[red]

Have you looked into a set of re-arched leafs? Those blocks gotta be causing some massive axle wrap, especially once you start towing...

Looking at a set of aftermarket leafs for a few reasons. Axle wrap issues (not bad, probably due to the 1 ton springs being such thick packs), longer wheel travel with the better springs for offroad, stiff spring packs, and the springs are about 25 years old. Also the hazard of popping the blocks out when offroad. They are 4" blocks that the previous owner put on as part of the lift kit (also 2" add-a-leaf). However I can't order the custom leafs yet until I get the truck all back together, both Alcan and Deaver want the amount of weight per wheel to get them right.

 

[tanman_2006]

I just got the generic deavers but yes they asked for my weight and weight of all loads pulled and some other crap. If I go custom again I will get weights but for what I wanted these work great.

 

[red]

Thats my most likely option, will wait until I get the longer shackles and the height/weight figured out before I order them.

Next task is to get the wires and metal fuel lines installed. Does anyone make full length metal fuel lines? All the local stores don't have anything longer than 6' and I'd rather not have multiple junctions inside the frame rails asking to leak at a later date.

 

[DieselCash]

Thats my most likely option, will wait until I get the longer shackles and the height/weight figured out before I order them.

Next task is to get the wires and metal fuel lines installed. Does anyone make full length metal fuel lines? All the local stores don't have anything longer than 6' and I'd rather not have multiple junctions inside the frame rails asking to leak at a later date.

O'Reily's has a coil in 25' lengths.

Have you tried in line tube?

 

[red]

Thanks for the link. Looked at their website and I don't think they sell the solid metal lines in lengths longer than 6 ft. Guess I'll have to go with a coupler along the fuel lines afterall, will try to position it where the junction is accessible.

 

[DieselCash]

Will this not work?

3/8 or 1/2

 

[red]

Huh, local store doesn't have that, will need to order it. That would also give me good options at the fuel tank end since I have not decided which fuel tanks I want to run yet.

 

[DieselCash]

Huh, local store doesn't have that, will need to order it. That would also give me good options at the fuel tank end since I have not decided which fuel tanks I want to run yet.

There is a lot of stuff on-line that they do not have in the store. If you go in with the part number(s) they can order and get it for you in the store with-in 24 hours. If you do not have a part number you will be there for hours while they try to look it up. There system is not as look up user friendly as there web site.

Wish you luck! :thumbsup:

 

[red]

Thank you.

Discovered some issues today. Wont be boxing the frame around the engine due to clearance issues with the exhaust manifolds. I could box the frame and get everything to fit, but when I have to remove the manifolds at a later date I'd have to pull the engine out to get enough clearance. Little heads up for anybody with an 80's era truck and running the ORD high clearance engine crossmember.

Wiring kit and new fuse block is ordered, so decided to get an idea of how much space the compound turbo setup is going to take since I have to wait to do anything right now. The compounds will be the ATT and GM4.
From the passenger side

Rear

Driver

Driver front

Top from passenger side

 

[red]

Have a free weekend so figured I would take care of some things. Started by getting the garage cleaned up since the weather is nice as well

With the wiring run along the frame for the rear lights/fuel pump/air compressor it's at the point I can't progress until the cab is installed, possible clearance issues with exhaust routing for turbo and designing the fuel lines, wiring, etc. So onto the cab

Pulled the windshield and found more rust than I was hoping

Salvageable just needs some work. Also needed to pull the inner dash because the truck is getting an aftermarket aluminum dash so this is going bye bye

With the dash and all the glass removed to reduce the weight and the fragile parts, made the biggest step of the day. Managed to convince a few friends to help by hosting a BBQ, amazing how much easier it is to do this with 5 others helping haha