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635 Rebuild cont.

SS FORCE said:
Love the Headlights. Where have I seen those before :confused5: :hihi:
Click to expand...
Reading my mind? No, I had seen them in LMC and ordered them but until I saw them on your truck, I wasn't really convinced they would look that good. I wired them to stay on and not blink with the turn signals.

GJF said:
Probably just air in the system. It won't hurt anything. But when your not expecting it, and your firing a new engine it's one less thing you need for the event. LoL
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I got a second opinion that matched your assessment so decided to go for it.
1. Replaced return fuel line from back of motor with rubber lines all the way to the point where the metal bending stuff for both feed and return linked up at the frame by the old lift pump. That will make putting the bell housing bolts back in place MUCH easier without that bracket in the way at two points.
2. Removed the flex plate's six bolts. Will ensure they are at 65 lbs torque going back on.
3. The winner is the gallery plug sitting at the 7-8 O'clock position closest to the cam bearing housing. Small one close in. It had a bead of oil on it and the rest were dry. Considering how inaccessable it would be when the block is mounted to the engine stand, it would be easy to overlook and, apparently, was.
4. Backed it out with about a half turn loosening it enough to use my hands on the allen head socket
5. Hit the others and they were snug so I gave them a 1/2 turn to ensure seated.
6. Wipe off the thread sealer (still wet) and wrap with 'monster blue' teflon tape.
7. Torque to 25 lbs and up it to 30 for a final hit. Hit the others to 30 lbs while in there.
8. Replace flex plate with two bolts and forgot to wipe off the excess oil that dripped out during the exchange.
9. Lit off the motor and let it idle up to 60 lbs PSI and shut down after a couple of minutes. Lots of air in it, chucka chug chug....
10. Checked plug, cleaned off excess oil with degreaser and electical contact cleaner to dry it off. Re-lit the motor. Sounded much better.
11. NO LEAKING. No oil from gallery plugs, none from the shortened oil feed line to the turbo, no fuel leaks, no leaks from the pressure and temperature senders I've put in either.
Feeling much better tonight.
Tomorrow I'll double check for leaks again with a longer idle time before calling this one fixed.
Might as well do the FS2500 lines for the tranny while it is down a bit. I confirmed there will be at least one run to Evco for fittings as the kit doesn't have the female to Jic 4 needed for the line to mate up. May not have the one to fit the tranny either...life goes on.
 
btfarm said:
I hope today is your day for good news.:thumbsup:
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And it was despite a slight scare.
The Gallery plugs were still dry this morning so on a break I started it up and let it run for a while 10 min or so. No leaks evident, just some apparent residual stuff around the main seal and back oil pan studs. Wiped it all down and added UV dye to be certain. Ran it for a few more minutes and under UV light, I noticed some oil around the studs again only now it's glowing so I know I've still got a leak. More like weeping (no, not me). So, I snugged the nuts up on all the studs I could reach, cleaned it up and went to get the fittings for the bypass filter to transmission connection.
No Joy, these things are straight 1/4" and not tapered. I didn't like the way the solutions offered were tightening up so I decided this was one project that could wait.
Back to the house, re-hit the oil pan nuts and everything was tight so I re-attached the flex plate and ran it for a bit again. Under inspection, no UV dyed oil present anywhere.:thumbsup:

So, after ensuring the glow plug wires, transfer case wires, starter wires etc. were properly routed by the starter's heat shield and with the help of my neighbor we:
Torqued the Flex plate to the crank at 65 Lbs.
Installed the new Transmission Mount and attached it to the cross member but didn't secure it to the frame to allow for movement.
Attached transmission lines after trip to pick up a new clip for the one that got away and abducted by that %^&* part Gnome running around the garage unsupervised.
Guided the tranny into place with a lot of horizontal and verticle adjustments of the transmission and motor to get the dowels and torque converter to all mate up. Done.
Attached the transmission cross member brace to the frame. The energy suspension's Red mount looks good from the one angle you need to see it.
Four of six bell housing bolts in place. Starter heat shield attached to the bell housing bolt stud and tight.
Transmission shift cable attached and, after one last inspection with the UV light, QUIT for the day. All in all, yes Mike, it was a great day. No real set backs.

Tomorrow, the underside gets done with:
Flex plate bolted to the torque converter
Flex plate cover, Transmission Brace, Front Drive shaft, Cross Over Pipe and the EGT Sensor reinstalled.
Transfer case fluid replaced with new fluid.
Rear drive shaft installed.
Then topside I'll replace the two remaining bell housing bolts, replace the six bumper bolts, connect the underhood reel lamp and hood lamp, light it off and top off the transmission fluid and lower it back to the ground and idle out of the garage. "On the road again....":D
 
Paveltolz said:
And it was despite a slight scare.
The Gallery plugs were still dry this morning so on a break I started it up and let it run for a while 10 min or so. No leaks evident, just some apparent residual stuff around the main seal and back oil pan studs. Wiped it all down and added UV dye to be certain. Ran it for a few more minutes and under UV light, I noticed some oil around the studs again only now it's glowing so I know I've still got a leak. More like weeping (no, not me). So, I snugged the nuts up on all the studs I could reach, cleaned it up and went to get the fittings for the bypass filter to transmission connection.
No Joy, these things are straight 1/4" and not tapered. I didn't like the way the solutions offered were tightening up so I decided this was one project that could wait.
Back to the house, re-hit the oil pan nuts and everything was tight so I re-attached the flex plate and ran it for a bit again. Under inspection, no UV dyed oil present anywhere.:thumbsup:

So, after ensuring the glow plug wires, transfer case wires, starter wires etc. were properly routed by the starter's heat shield and with the help of my neighbor we:
Torqued the Flex plate to the crank at 65 Lbs.
Installed the new Transmission Mount and attached it to the cross member but didn't secure it to the frame to allow for movement.
Attached transmission lines after trip to pick up a new clip for the one that got away and abducted by that %^&* part Gnome running around the garage unsupervised.
Guided the tranny into place with a lot of horizontal and verticle adjustments of the transmission and motor to get the dowels and torque converter to all mate up. Done.
Attached the transmission cross member brace to the frame. The energy suspension's Red mount looks good from the one angle you need to see it.
Four of six bell housing bolts in place. Starter heat shield attached to the bell housing bolt stud and tight.
Transmission shift cable attached and, after one last inspection with the UV light, QUIT for the day. All in all, yes Mike, it was a great day. No real set backs.

Tomorrow, the underside gets done with:
Flex plate bolted to the torque converter
Flex plate cover, Transmission Brace, Front Drive shaft, Cross Over Pipe and the EGT Sensor reinstalled.
Transfer case fluid replaced with new fluid.
Rear drive shaft installed.
Then topside I'll replace the two remaining bell housing bolts, replace the six bumper bolts, connect the underhood reel lamp and hood lamp, light it off and top off the transmission fluid and lower it back to the ground and idle out of the garage. "On the road again....":D
Click to expand...

Is that you I hear coming down my street looking for some ladder bars?
 
Got the check list done with the exception of draining and refilling the transfer case. I don't have the socket of the correct size to remove the fill plug. I can get the drain plug with a crescent wrench. It moved real easy but the angles are all wrong to go after the fill plug with anything but the right socket. 1 1/8 is too small....
After deciding that I'd done what needed doing, I lowered it and let it idle going over everything for leaks: fuel lines, oil feed lines, exhaust pipe, cross over, lines at the transmission and low and behold, I got a squirting tranny line at the upper cooler fitting. Pulled it, wrapped in teflon and snugged it up for a re-test. Success.
Still got a slight engine oil weep on the starter side. Not the oil pan now but it is does drip down the starter and the center of the oil pan. Nothing like the pouring out that it did before though so I'll keep an eye on it.
I did get it on the road and it drives very nice. Plenty responsive for feathering the throttle and it sounds very healthy.
13-14 PSI Fuel
55 PSI Oil
Boost wasn't registering at all with the GM-8. When I got home I checked for leaks and sure enough, the rear center intake bolt was not present for duty and lying in the engine valley! That isn't right! Replaced it and snugged up all junction band clamps on the intake route.
I had two codes. Cylinder 3 imbalance and transmission pressure. I cleared them after the first test ride and will see if the recure now that it starts better and the line is tight.
I also seem to have aquired a permanent 'low coolant' light. The bottle is full to the "Hot Mark" so I'm not sure what that's all about. Always something.
I was going to go on a road trip in the morning with it, maybe out to Ellensburg but will wait for that. I need to get it registered before going anywhere and that doesn't leave enough time to get up there before he's closed. Maybe in a couple of weeks.
After getting it re-registered and an oil change, I will be crossing the state tomorrow. North to south. Heading down to St. George and then maybe east towards Grand Junction before heading back home again. Maybe 7-800 miles. Will see how tired I am after scouting out training areas today up at Snowbird.....
 
ak diesel driver said:
try cleaning the sensor for the coolant light
Click to expand...
Thanks, I'll drive it a bit to see if it will burp one more time to get the fluid lower and then do just that.
I gotta say, this thing for all the new injector rattle and air bleeding through the fuel system, it certainly purred down the road.
I'm not used to removing the oil cap while a 6.5 is running and not seeing a steam locamotive's worth of puffing coming out. Nice.
Like I said, I'll drive it, keep an eye on the oil drip and keep a steady eye on the oil pressure etc.
Worse comes to worse, I'll pull the oil pan and redo the main and gaskets. Either pull the motor or learn something else new and drop the front differential. Pulling the motor doesn't scare me either. What the heck, 635's coming through at the the end of the month....
I think I'll order some 389 CI Diesel Stickers
 
Drove for a little over 110 miles is all.
Change oil at 40.
High pitched vibration / whirring noise comes on when boost gets above 4psi. Weird. Boost seems to be coming up late too. GM-8 should have more than 1lb of boost at 70 but this one motors right along with little effort and less boost. Very nice ride even when driving very easy. People behind me aren't happy cause I take a lot longer than surrounding traffic to get up to the speed limit and then I'm up and down 5mph every couple of miles.
Went through the intake from Turbo to lower manifold to ensure the band clamps, 1/8 NPT plugs and bolts were all secure. I guess the way I'm driving doesn't put enough load on the motor to require the turbo. Fine.
After a lot of driving and checking and poking I think the source of the whirring noise is the bolt in the back of the turbo's heat shield was very loose. Snugged it down and will test drive in the morning to confirm after re-installing the air cleaner.
The engine oil weeping is frustrating enough that I'll go through and snug the oil pan down as much as I can and test for leaks...again. If it is still weeping then the front differential is coming down tomorrow as is that $%^&* pan for a second try. The air moving over the oil is whipping all over down there and its a mess. Not a lot of oil, its just everywhere.
 
Checked the GM-8's shaft play this morning before doing anything else. Sure enough, easily move the impellers sidewall to side wall. Not so much with the old GM-5.
Here's a short video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vXVJWRGZPl8&feature=youtu.be

So. pulled the 8, swapped over fittings for oil inlet/outlet, etc. and dropped in the old 5. Additionally, fixed the fuel return line to the IP as it was leaking fuel. Pulled the exhaust manifold bolts we made due with as the correct ones came in. I noticed that the correct ones, ordered through stealership, were used. They were pretty cruddy so I ran a them through a thread chaser to clean them up. No issues.

Knocked a few other punch list items out as well and ran the truck for a few miles to see if the 'fixes' worked. Finally, three steps forward and none back.
No 'whirring' (Turbo)
Boost comes up as it used to so the gauges are working
Transmission Temp gauge is functioning so I'm 6 for 6. Old Isspro Pyro and Boost gauge available:hello:
1800 more miles to go....
 
Oh yeah, noticed fuel on the IP so the return hose was swapped out. That's solved it. I wonder, just wonder, if the fine mist of oil all over everything under there was assisted by a little thinning action from the fuel? Not much in the valley and most of it is on the passenger side and there isn' any diesel smell that I notice anyway. Of course, I'm pretty desensitized to the smell of diesel these days. Wishfull thinking, I really don't want to drop that pan but the fact that the truck isn't 'house broke' to park on driveways is kinda dumb to me and, after all, this isn't a new Mercedes Benze from South Carolina so it shouldn't be leaking like that.:rof:

Question: Are the compressor housings interchangeable between the 8 and 5? I seem to recall that the main difference between them is the exhaust elbow. But then again, I'm on some great pain meds now for my shoulder so I probably should be keeping my hands and feet away from keyboards. Anyway, just curious because the GM-8was extrude honed and powdercoated. Its a bling thing. If they are I'll check to see if the inlets are the same diameter what with the play in the shaft and that 'whirring' noise. No use messing around too much if the 8's blades have done some honing of their own.:skep:
 
jhornsby3 said:
Paul, I thought you had an ATT to put on it. Why are you messing with the 5 or 8?

John
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Orionthade has had my ATT on his truck for a few months now. Turns out it runs great! Go figure. All that fussing and stuff and it's what I feared in light of all positive reports...it was my truck at issue.
Anyway, he was in the market an ATT so I volunteered mine as a test. Test if it would work for him and if, if it did, did he want to pay the price for new or purchase mine...like I said, its been a few months but he's changed jobs and his health and alternator failed him the weekend of the motor swap.
So, I have to run the GM set up until he decides to either pay for the thing or give it back. Then I can invest in something else or try it out myself. I have an extra ECM that I can send up for re-tunes and will do so once I know what to run next. In the meantime, the current tune is set to optimize a GM-X with the cam.
The GM-8 came with the motor. Being extrude honed as well, it seemed like a logical choice. Neither of us suspected it would be toast as Ted's truck is almost 3 years newer and with fewer miles on that turbo than I've got on the GM-5. Oh well. Maybe I can rebuild it as part of my '6.5 mechanic home school' program.
I do like how the motor is performing, even in ultra granny mode. The air in the system must be clearing out as it is running smoother, quieter and more consistant, especially on start up. The oil leak seems to be lessening and I'm not as tense wondering what every new sound is. That turbo 'wizzing' thing really had me binging when it first came on. I hadn't heard it on the first drive the night before so it wasn't a pleasant surprise.
I'll wave as I pass through Boise this coming Thursday. I'll be checking on a couple of areas between here and there for training exercises and will then run up to Ellensburg to fine tune the ECM and talk over plans for the future. I've volunteered to do some Lab-Rat work for him and it's a great excuse to put some miles on the truck.
When's the next Diesel Dig anyway?
 
I'm not sure as I have tossed that bunch of racist "C" lovers. They got pretty pissy at the furd and GM owners so I found it best to leave them be.

Stop by if you need the free "motel" and a meal. You know how the wife likes to cook.

Too bad the Idaho tax return has yet to show up. I'd have you pick me up a chip so I could get rid of the old hypertech chip I have now.

It has taken a few hundred miles each time I have messed with the fuel system to rid all the air out. The last time I was told about the wallies 2 stroke oil in the fuel system and have been using it ever since. It seemed to not air rattle as long as the first few times. Probably had nothing to do with anything but hey.

If you feel the need to stop either way just holla at me. You have the number.

John
 
Jamin6.5 said:
Paul as far as I was told the only difference between the gm5 and 8 is the impellers. The 8 had a better impeller design.
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I understood it to be mainly in the exhaust elbows but there is a difference in the two impellers upon closer inspection. Perhaps I could swap both the housings and impellers? Shafts are probably just different enough to prevent that though.
 
Paveltolz said:
I understood it to be mainly in the exhaust elbows but there is a difference in the two impellers upon closer inspection. Perhaps I could swap both the housings and impellers? Shafts are probably just different enough to prevent that though.
Click to expand...

You can always try. I know the gm 3 has a different setup than the 5 because i have compared them before. Also I was taking with bill about the turbos and he told me that the gm 5 was fine to run with the performance tune.
 
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