6.5 hard/no start then stalls

[denata]

There is a very small gap in the optical sensor, in thin layers any fuel is optically transparent

 

[fpfiesterv5]

There is a very small gap in the optical sensor, in thin layers any fuel is optically transpare

Heard thank you guys again you’ve been a huge help so far

 

[fpfiesterv5]

So lots of interesting things happened today tried to get it started without the cam sensor plugged in but couldn’t get the rpm’s above 165 bc the batteries were low but did notice it said pcm in vtd fail but the vtd fuel disable was off Not sure if that has anything to do with anything. BUT while I was letting the batteries charge a little I repligged everything in including the original Pmd and she fired up! She ran like a champ for a good while so I went ahead and did the 2000 rpm test with what’s probably bad news, i couldn’t get it to rest at 2k. It would go smooth all the way up to 1800ish then want to take off until I let my foot off then it would want to die at idle until I gave it a little throttle. So what does that mean for my IP?I’m assuming internal wear. But after that once the truck got warmed up it turned off like before like someone turned the key off felt the old Pmd and she was hot as hell so I think that one is was originated my stall problem. The new Pmd I’m afraid is toast as I didn’t know I couldn’t try to run it without a sink for a short time. Already tried mounting it to the old sink but I could only get the truck to randomly fire with it

 

[denata]

I think we need to look for the next pump. I had a situation when the engine was unstable (it jerked at speed, sometimes black smoke, it started for a long time). Checked and changed everything that is possible. More than 3 miles from home. Turned about 30°, the main solenoid that controls the fuel supply. The engine began to work very well for about 1,000 miles, but then again badly. I turned again - it became good for about a thousand miles ... At home I ordered a used pump and changed it, since then everything is fine.

 

[denata]

In the old pump, I found an incomprehensible piece.

 

[denata]

The valve seat wears out, it becomes not tight enough. Of course, you can grind it, and then take it to the stand to adjust the position of the solenoid. But I found another pump for little money.

 

[fpfiesterv5]

That’s what I was afraid of from the beginning any suggestions on where to grab a used pump or maybe back to engine swap idea as lowest I’ve found pumps is like 750

 

[Will L.]

A far better option imo than a new ds4 ip is find out if you’re dmv requirements for smog check needs to use the obd2.

If you don’t- then do the conversion to the older truck design and get a db2 ip.
It is a fully mechanical pump. No electronics to create headaches.

 

[fpfiesterv5]

The Db2 is what I was hoping to find. Just curious on what all would be involved with the computer/control of the transmission.

 

[denata]

Did you measure valve closing time?
Thech2 : "Inj.Pump Sol.Closure."
But with an oscilloscope, you can see better.

 

[denata]

This time between the command to close the valve and the moment the valve closes.

 

[fpfiesterv5]

So I didn’t see a inj.sol.close value but the inj close value was 1.5

 

[denata]

This is a good value, it means the valve is not gouged yet.
Is it stable, doesn't it wobble?

 

[fpfiesterv5]

I’ll check the value on that tomorrow and see if I can see it engine rpm fluctuates by about 50 rpm’s at idle if that what you mean by wobble

 

[MrMarty51]

Did You remive the intake manifold and run the engine to find those fuel leaks thats under the intake manifold ?
Or better yet, go to the parts store and get about four foot of fuel hose, 30R9 rated for diesel fuel. Just replace the hoses thats under the intake manifold, then start the engine and look for leaks.
Report back Your findings.

 

[denata]

And the higher the RPM, the less fluctuation? Is it stable at 1300 rpm? Tech2 can set the desired speed.

 

[Will L.]

Follow these guys guiding you before giving up on this pump, and do look at cost of another one and what it takes to learn the computer on the replacement if needed.

If you can go to a db2-
Turbo needs mechanical control instead of vacuum,
transmission gets a stand alone controller, you can get an older tcm (like the current ecm but it only controls transmission- but you need more parts to go with it and they Aren’t as good as the stand alone units.

Check engine/transmission light in dash gets removed. My 1995 hummer doesn’t even have a check engine light from factory - there is no computer to monitor anything- so no engine codes.

 

[Will L.]

Oh, there is a list of things to do to the 6.5 to make it more reliable long term. Aka There is time & money to spend. Replace oil cooler lines with better ones, harmonic balancer, these two are critical. probably need a set on injectors by now.
I don’t think its a good thing to pile on different subjects right now- but if you are considering Engine swap- you should get full picture of 6.5, then compare a cummins, dmax, etc.

I have a 1943 Willy’s mb that was my Dad’s. So I get the idea of holding on to it for that reason alone as much as anyone. But it will never be a daily driver.
It might make sense before you pump ten thousand bucks into this one- that you just keep it as a back up vehicle long term.

 

[dbrannon79]

Be absolutely careful running the engine without the intake. if there are fuel leaks and it makes it's way into the intake ports you can get a runaway engine. there are two fuel lines leading up to the IP that run under the intake. the rubber supply hose from the FFM to the IP and the return that should be a metal line. the metal return line can rust from the outside in and cause leaks in the valley. when I replaced mine I ended up rerouting all the rubber hose out over the intake to keep it out of the heat.

oh there is also the rubber hoses from the FFM to the tee valve too. those can be leaking. when I did mine, all those hoses were already gone where someone had cut and capped them at the FFM. I ended up totally removing the FFM and getting a remote mount fuel filter with a clear bowl mounting it on the firewall. Now depending on your climate, you might not be able to do that where you may need the fuel heater in the winter. they do make remote mount filters with heaters but are pricey.

your FFM also has o-rings on the lower side that can leak. be sure to have a look at those too. and where the wires go in at the bottom for the water sensor and heater. I have seen where others say that is a leak prone area.

anywhere there is a fuel leak also has the potential to suck air when under load due to the amount of fuel the IP draws where the LP can't keep up the flow. also a fire hazard!!

 

[fpfiesterv5]

Oh, there is a list of things to do to the 6.5 to make it more reliable long term. Aka There is time & money to spend. Replace oil cooler lines with better ones, harmonic balancer, these two are critical. probably need a set on injectors by now.
I don’t think its a good thing to pile on different subjects right now- but if you are considering Engine swap- you should get full picture of 6.5, then compare a cummins, dmax, etc.

I have a 1943 Willy’s mb that was my Dad’s. So I get the idea of holding on to it for that reason alone as much as anyone. But it will never be a daily driver.
It might make sense before you pump ten thousand bucks into this one- that you just keep it as a back up vehicle long term.

So that’s the thing this engines done decent up until this point being my daily for the last year it’s already had the oil lines replaced fluid damper harmonic balancer got the turbo master for manual boost setup and to clarify I only put about 300 so far so not too happy but not devastated either with all that being said i live in central San Antonio so even if this thing brakes down it’s not crazy to get it back to the house

And the higher the RPM, the less fluctuation? Is it stable at 1300 rpm? Tech2 can set the desired speed.

And the higher the RPM, the less fluctuation? Is it stable at 1300 rpm? Tech2 can set the desired speed.

yes it’s smooth and holds firm once I give it throttle up until about 1900 wheee I can hold it for a second then wants to take off

Did You remive the intake manifold and run the engine to find those fuel leaks thats under the intake manifold ?
Or better yet, go to the parts store and get about four foot of fuel hose, 30R9 rated for diesel fuel. Just replace the hoses thats under the intake manifold, then start the engine and look for leaks.
Report back Your findings.

I think I found the leak it stems from the fuel filter housing at the rear just a steady leak of fuel about a drop every other second so I think that ring seal is one of my issues along with maybe the fuel shutoff o ring