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2008 R-Vision Super Sport 26BHS

It is a sqaure dowel that that sits in a groove on the axle if it's the one I'm thinking of. Clean away the grease and you should see it at 12 o clock pos..
Pull it out with a magnet or needle nose.

also check nut for crimp marks, if none then chances are it is as described above.

BTW credit unions rock. we paid 2.99% when we bought ours. Only $220.00 in interest over two years.
 
Well, I bought yet another lemon. Fridge didn't work right. Froze everything. Fortunately a 15$ sensor seemed to fix it. The toilet valve sprung a leak. Fixed that. The lines going to the outside shower were loose and leaked. minor stuff...It rained like hell 4 inches plus and now I see water leaking from around the skylight in the bathroom and the roof vent in the bathroom. I hope the ceiling doesn't rot now. I can fix the leaks hopefully but I don't know how fast or how much water it takes to make the ceiling soft.
:suicide:
What a POS. A 2yr old camper should not be having these issues.
 
they all need upkeep Kenny...I have to replace the control board on my fridge...it wont let it operate on gas...I picked one up for $79 shipped off of Ebay...dealer wanted $125...should be here by tuesday or wednesday at the latest...just in time for our guns and diesels gtg...

...as far as the roof it should be rubber...and able to be walked on(if not, there should be a warning label not to... but don't trust me...investigate it first)

...pick yourself up some self leveling sealant...a lot... and go to town up there...I had to do it on mine...I could see the factory stuff starting to get brittle so I pulled the trigger and used about $60 worth of sealant on it...you also need to clean and condition the rubber roof as well...I did mine already...another $50 worth of things...

also all the vertical corner joints of the body and slides needs to be caulked on mine...seems the stuff they use doesn't last long...I'll be using the white GE silicon with the antimicrobial additive in it...

keep in mind...these things are like a boat...you'll always be sinking money into them...more if you don't spend money regularly on upkeep or keep them under a cover ...I'm looking into that next...
 
I realize that but it seems I had less problems with the 10 yr old camper I just sold. This thing is 2 years old and should not have leaks yet but anyway crawled up on there today and yep, saw some possible spots. All I had was brown window caulk so I used that for now. Will get better stuff this week. The skylight is a POS. It's a cheapy plastic thing just basically glued to the roof. I would never have put something like that in. Whether it be house or camper, skylights=leaks. The Dometic fridge in my 1970 Travco was 40 yrs old ans still worked. They certainly don't build stuff like they used to.
 
Kenny get DICOR self leveling caulk for all the seams on the roof. It is non hardening and you should check roof every 90 days, and use dicor on the cracks if any are found. I scrape the silicone off the sides around the windows and doors every three years and recaulk all seams on the sides. Skylights are the worst,
The skylight is a POS.
skylights=leaks.
, you're right.

I would take the S/L up and dry out the wood and reseal it properly. There should be screws holding it down under the factory DICOR sealant. Also if you have a clear dome buy a white one, The clear ones not only let in more heat they deteriorate within 3-5 years versus almost 10 for the white.

They are more $$$ for a reason. When putting on the new one or re-installing the one you have make sure to use gray butyl tape on the bottom of the S/L as that is the last line of defense against leaks. And screw down with 3/4 galv. screws if not already in place. Atleast take it off to inspect and dry in case there is water trapped, IT WILL RUIN THE ROOF IN THE BATH. Once water gets in the wood it will rot it if left unattended.

Hope all turns out well.
 
I didn't use Dicor on mine...I went with something that I felt will last much longer...

Sikaflex-1c SL- Self-leveling construction sealant.

I've used this stuff for many things...only time will tell, but I feel this will outperform/outlast the Dicor easily...JMHO

Rob: no one ever got around to pricing out my travel trailer fro me...wanna take a shot at it? ;)
 
What's the year and model smarty pants!!!!!! :rolleyes5::rolleyes5::mad2::skep::skep:


I knew you'd like that:D

...all the info is in my "new to me camper" thread...I just want to see what kind of deal I made...I'll disclose the price I paid after someone works it up...;)
 
I wish there was a "neat" way I could get rid of the skylight.

I have the smoked skylight...I don't mind it so much...Rob is right though...it is extra heat that it lets in...

I have three other skylight/vents as well and I have them covered with these pillows that are made to go in them... insulates and blocks most of the light...
 
Okay sweet pea. With the limited info I have on it, avg. retail is about $19/22,000.

I'm gonna guess you stole it or beat the guy senseless and got it for around 13/15,000 or if there are options I don't know about and avg. retail is around $ 25/27,000 that you got it for about 18,000. Barring some crazy circumstances that only happen to people other than me. Let me know if I'm in the ball park.:agreed::agreed::D:D
 
I ran the NADA with all the options listed in that thread the way (I think)that you were running them, that was pricing it using everything as an option instead of omitting standard equipment (fiberglass...2 slides... furnace etc...)and came up with $31k... which is ridiculous considering new it was $34k w/o options...

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I paid $12k for it
 

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I'm gonna guess you stole it or beat the guy senseless and got it for around 13/15,000

What's the booby prize for being within 1to3 G of the price. I got pretty close on the avg. retail to.

Come on throw me a bone already. I never run into deals like that otherwise it would be in my back yard

Sweet deal, and if you get dementia and feel the need to sell it for 10G, give me a ring.
 
Well, I pulled the inside cover of the skylight off and the wood has water damage.
:mad2:
I don't know how I can fix the ceiling without it looking like total shit.
 
The slide sounds like it's lugging when I go to put it out.

Is that while plugged in, or on the battery?

They generally don't need service unless dirt or something got into the tracks.

Does it sag when extended ? It could be a bad motor or ground. Does the motor sound like it is dragging, or do you hear any sounds from the track like binding or skipping?

I don't know how I can fix the ceiling without it looking like total shit.

If you send me a pic of what your're dealing with I'll try to help. The repair depends on what the damage is.

I would be more than happy to help if I can.
 
Camper is plugged in. It sags while going in or out but straightens out when fully extended or retracted. Just sounds like the motor is working harder than when i first got it. I'll post pics later. I put the heat on in it yesterday and cranked it to 88 and then used a heat gun to carefully dry the wood. It looks better today. It seems the water got in and stayed in the lip of the lower trimring and deteriorated the ceiling just around where the trim ring goes.
 
It sags while going in or out but straightens out when fully extended or retracted

It may have come out of the guide track or if cable system up top, may have slack and need adj..

The top is unsupported and trying to fall out ahead of the bottom and binding. Thats why it straightens out at full extension,and puts a strain on the motor while extending.

Look at the top side of the slide while it's open and look for tracks or cables. You probably have the cables and if so you need to adjust them.

To do this you need to retract it about 3 to 4 in. from full ext.or until it sags,then support the bottom slide bars and jack it up to level and see if the play is down bottom or up top. If you have cables. Adj. cables until it stays level under its own weight.

If you have the track system try to take a pic so I can see which type you have. It might also be the lower, take a look and see if the slide bar attachments are bolted down tight. BTW. What's the full ext. length and how far does it come out?

Worst case you will have to take it to longview and let them adjust it.
 
I'll take pics and measurements tomorrow. There are no cables and no guides that I can see up top. The slide is roughly 4 ft but I'll double check tomorrow. Now for the next disaster(God I wish a tree would just fall on this POS). The skylight is still leaking. The ceiling at this point appears to be ruined. My question is how can you section or patch a rubber roof ? I want to remove the skylight. I will frame out the opening and put plywood where the hole was but I need to put membrane over the repair so how can that be done ? Should I lay a piece over the existing roof ? Try to tuck a piece under the existing roof ? It seems to me the way to fix it would be to get a piece of membrane the same size as the hole and lay that on the plywood first then lay another piece of membrane over the patch but 6 inches min bigger all around and then ...glue ??? Seal ?? it to the existing roof ?
How does one patch a rubber roof ? Can small pieces of membrane be bought ?
Then on the inside , since it's in the shower, I'll just cut a piece of that white plastic wall stuff they use in restrooms and make a new ceiling the size of the shower so it looks factory as the ceiling damage does not extend past the shower area.
Opinions ?
 
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