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1999 6.5 Won't start.

zeppelingto

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Location
Delaware
Just got a 1999 3500 and can't get it to start. I've replaced the PMD(haven't mounted it but its connected, I don't need to mount it until it runs right?), fuel filter, and air filter. I splashed a little Ctene booster in the fuel filter holder. Cranks and sounds like its about to start, but nothing. I really don't know much about the history of this truck.

Looked and listened to the lift pump and it is running just sounds a little rough my Suburban 6.5 wasn't nearly as loud. I opened the fuel filter and it pours fuel out of it when the pump is running. Is there a way to check the injector pump? Could it be the optical sensor?

Under the truck there looks like a lot of oil/grime splashed all over. I don't know if this thing has a bad head gasket, but oil seems normal no oil in the antifreeze and just a little oil drops on the garage floor.

Would grounds be an issue if the truck is turning over? Also, the glow plugs click on and off a couple cycles sometimes...
 
Pass lock is going to be my bet another member here had a 99 that he couldnt get to start tried every thing and it ended up be that the pass lock had a problem. let me see if i can find the thread
 
I just read 88s wonderful post on passlock. I don't think that's it. Security light goes off after a few seconds. I bled the t valve. Just changed the CDR because there was a lot of oil splashed around it. Cleaned the main ground(covered in oil from old tuna can). I cracked an injector line and a little fuel came out. Put a paper goal under it and about a 2" diameter of diesel showed up after 2-3 cranks. I have no idea how much should come out. But it seems like not enough fuel is getting to the motor. Came pretty close a couple times and read 35 lbs of oil pressure. Garage filled with white smoke after a couple close ones.

I did just have a locksmith re-do the ignition cause it was really hard to turn sometimes. But I had these problems before.
 
I had also used my suburbans PMD but I removed it from the burban and just plugged it in. I don't know if I need to ground it but it always worked in my suburban even if it wasn't mounted to the heat sink.
 
Could be timing as white smoke is unburned fuel.

Does the pump look like it's turned a lot to the left or right? Someone might have messed with it trying to get it to run.

Not saying that's the problem, just one of the things to look at....
 
I dont think you are getting enought fuel personally. when you crack a line and crank it over with good batts it should make a heck of a mess.
 
Do you think its the lift pump? From what I read here they usually don't cause a no start condition, and it does send a good amount of fuel up when I turn the t valve like soak the garage floor amount. If not the lift pump what else besides a bad IP would not sent enough fuel?

I'm gonna try bleeding the t valve again. There was a pretty big vacum when I removed the fuel cap(its a diesel cap BTW).
 
Great White when you say turned left or right is there something on the IP to control how much fuel goes out? I'm not too sure what you mean by that. Been reading this forum like a second job the past few weeks but still don't know enough.
 
the IP will rotate once the 3 nuts that hold it on are loosened. To the drivers side is advance to the pass side is retard
 
Pulled the intake off and some weird stuff in there. Little flat pieces of a hard coal like substance, about the size of your pinky nail(little smaller). What the heck is that lol. Should I be looking for new motor?
 
Pulled the intake off and some weird stuff in there. Little flat pieces of a hard coal like substance, about the size of your pinky nail(little smaller). What the heck is that lol. Should I be looking for new motor?

What?!?

Are these loose bits floating around or is it just rough surface on the aluminum?

A picture is sure worth a thousand words here....

I dont think we covered pulling the codes from the ECM yet. Have you done this? Results?

Perhaps try cracking open one othe injector lines to verify you're getting fuel to the injectors. Just loosen one (don't remove it!) and crank the engine over once. Watch keep your hands away from the loose nut and keep your eyes away from the area. You should get a fair bit from just one crank. If you get very little or no none, the ip and attaching components may be suspect since you get lots of fuel at the fm.
 
i think he has done this and did not get that much fuel not enought to make it run in my opinion. this is the same symptoms as i have seen with the pass lock malfunction but in this case his security light is not staying on like in others so IDK
 
i think he has done this and did not get that much fuel not enought to make it run in my opinion. this is the same symptoms as i have seen with the pass lock malfunction but in this case his security light is not staying on like in others so IDK

If so, this could be a failed fuel shut off solenoid....could be.
 
Make sure the pmd is on a heatsink!!!!

X2 Do not ever run a PMD without it on a heat sink. They will fry in just minutes.

Just to confirm you are taking the PMD from another running truck and installing it on the 99?
 
X2 Do not ever run a PMD without it on a heat sink. They will fry in just minutes.

Just to confirm you are taking the PMD from another running truck and installing it on the 99?

I sold the suburban but had both for a day. I agree running the PMD without being on the heatsink for a little while is a bad idea. Forgot to remount the old heatsink on the suburban and was burning myself trying to get it back on I just hope this truck runs long enough to get warm :/. I'm using a tested used one I bought from trusted source. But will buy a newer flight systems one once I know the truck runs.

I see no check engine light on. Could there still be codes? I'll go buy a scanner tomorrow and run it if you think it would help.

If the timing is really off could it send fuel so far off that the truck can't start. Would someone recommend playing with the timing to try and get it running?
 
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