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1994 K3500 extended cab dually

Stoney said:
@Husker6.5 those poisons are the sole reason I he generation X is indestructible.. if that stuff couldn't kill us I don't think anything will...I saw a video of a girl that was about 23-24 , she pulled out a bottle of MD 2020, and was saying she had heard her dad and his friends talking about it so she wanted to try the stuff her parents drank... All I could think was DONT DO IT . PUT THAT DOWN,!! THAT WILL HURT YOU!! YOU AREN'T BUILT FOR THAT!! Then I thought, actually, go ahead just make another video in the morning so we can laugh at you 😀 😀..
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Gen X? Son, MD20/20, Boone's Farm, TJ Swann and all of those were around LOOONG before you were! I was drinking them (well, only TJ Swann if we/I couldn't get some beer or hard alcohol) when I was in high school back in the mid-1970s! They even predate us Boomers!
 
@Husker6.5 Damn I knew boons farm was old but I thought MD only came out in late 80s.. so THATS the reason y'all had our whole generation of kids y'all didn't really want.. 😂😂. Y'all dont remember making us😂 I can't say anything, neither my oldest daughters mom or I remember meeting each other at a party in 97, and we damn sure don't remember making our daughter. Ironically we're still best friends to this day.. BTW what was up with y'all building us playground rides that were specifically designed to kill us??
 
Population control if there wasn't any birth control available at the time of the act that got her pregnant and also reinforcing Darwin's survival of the fittest, both physically (surviving the accident) and mentally (not getting on the damn thing in the first place) to improve the species!
 
Will L. said:
Ive seen plenty of times the heads cracked and block was ok. But always good to hear some parts are still alive. I know ya checked them out before installing but it doesn’t mean there wasn’t underlying conditions before you started with those heads.

Where does the current plan and timeline sit?
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Yeah.....and it probably didn't help that I had ported the heck out of them - causing walls to be thinner.

I'm fleshing out the current plan, but I think I'm close to having it nailed down. It isn't going to be an all-out build because I have a lot of irons in the fire at the moment and I just need this truck to be back on the road and usable.....but I also don't want to be worrying about the durability of the truck all the time.

I found some NOS GM heads, so I'm going to use those. I'll likely just be cleaning up any casting flash and port-matching them. I have another Optimizer block that is in good shape, so I'm just going to hone that and replace the cam bearings. The pistons that came out of the last engine don't have that many miles, so I'm planning to reuse them and have the rotating assembly balanced to hopefully take some stress off of the block.

On the external side, I'm going to install the S366 turbo that I have had for this truck for a while now. That should reduce drive pressure from what I was seeing. I'm also going to install the Yank converter I got from WarWagon because the one that was in it was just way too tight and sucked getting going from a start. I think that will also help durability of the engine because it won't lug as much.

That's the over-arching plan so far.
 
n8in8or said:
Yeah.....and it probably didn't help that I had ported the heck out of them - causing walls to be thinner.

I'm fleshing out the current plan, but I think I'm close to having it nailed down. It isn't going to be an all-out build because I have a lot of irons in the fire at the moment and I just need this truck to be back on the road and usable.....but I also don't want to be worrying about the durability of the truck all the time.

I found some NOS GM heads, so I'm going to use those. I'll likely just be cleaning up any casting flash and port-matching them. I have another Optimizer block that is in good shape, so I'm just going to hone that and replace the cam bearings. The pistons that came out of the last engine don't have that many miles, so I'm planning to reuse them and have the rotating assembly balanced to hopefully take some stress off of the block.

On the external side, I'm going to install the S366 turbo that I have had for this truck for a while now. That should reduce drive pressure from what I was seeing. I'm also going to install the Yank converter I got from WarWagon because the one that was in it was just way too tight and sucked getting going from a start. I think that will also help durability of the engine because it won't lug as much.

That's the over-arching plan so far.
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Will You install the Lock & Stitch tube repair kits in the new heads before installing the heads ?
 
Finally getting back to this one. With the red truck basically finished, I was able to pull this one into the barn again.

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Today I pulled the front clip off and then yanked the trans and transfer case.

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I’m coming to realize that when I did the plumbing and wiring I focused more on the looks of how they were routed than I did the serviceability, as it was more challenging than it should have been to take it apart today. I can also see the effects of me driving it during the winter that year…..bummer. I need to find a simple way to wash this truck since I can’t take a dually in the normal carwashes around here that I’m familiar with.
 
I’ve made some progress on the transmission front. I got the trans from the black truck disassembled so I could harvest the 4wd output shaft.

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I tore down the trans I built for Frankensquare last year and swapped the output shafts. I reassembled the geartrain and checked clearances - they were the same before and after the shaft swap, so that was nice to not have to mess with shims again. Now I’m just waiting for a new center support bolt to show up so I can finish reassembly.

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I found some parts I needed to replace in the trans from the black truck - once those show up, I can reassemble that trans in a 2wd configuration so it’s ready for installation into Frankensquare.

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2008 trans that was first built for Frankensquare is now converted to 4wd and ready for use in this truck.

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I got the transfer case disassembled, cleaned and inspected. All hard parts are good thankfully. I have new seals on order as well as a new 4wd switch because I was having issues with this one when it was installed in the truck.

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Will L. said:
Guessing doing a new chain & shifter guides?

I always wondered how much coating the planetaries with the friction reducer from Techline would help. Makes a big difference in the axles. Maybe not appropriate for this build- just sayin…
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Chain looks fine and much to my surprise so did the guides on the shift forks. The case and oil pump anchor tab didn’t even have much wear, so this must have been a replacement unit at some point because the truck has over 200,000 miles. I’m going to do a case saver mod to prevent future damage.
 
The case saver mod replaces the output shaft C-clip and prevents the shaft, sprockets and chain from shifting and then rubbing a hole through the x-fer case.

There is also a different type of case saver designed for GMT-800 Duramax 4x4 x-fer cases that prevents one of the sprockets from riding against the inside wall ofthe x-fer case and wearing a hole through it.
 
DieselAmateur said:
Case saver mod? Care to elaborate?

Is this a NP241 case or a BW4401? A little while ago there was a fellow on here struggling to disassemble a 4401. Seems parts are pretty hard to find for them. Thankfully the 241s are plentiful
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This is a BW4401. Parts are fairly rare.

There’s a metal tab on the oil pump that holds the housing stationary while the shaft rotates inside of it. That tab can either rub a groove in the case and/or the case rubs the end of the tab off - either way, the housing then rotates so it is no longer a pump, plus it tears the pickup hose for extra unpumpiness. Many of the BW cases have this issue - I did it to the BW1356 that was in my 94 F150. I’ll detail what I do when I do it.
 
Today I got the transfer case assembled….at least as much as I can.

Here’s what I did for the case saver mod:

Well first, here’s the problem - the oil pump is held stationary with this stamped sheet metal bracket that is captured by bosses in the aluminum case. In theory it’s a fine setup, but eventually the sheet metal and/or the aluminum get worn and the pump can then rotate as I described before. Somehow this one still looks great, but since I’m in here I might as well do some preventive work.

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First, I cut the end of the bracket after I marked where to cut it.

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Then I cut a piece of 1/2” diameter steel rod 1-1/4” long and welded it to the bracket. Now there’s much more surface working so wear will be significantly reduced.

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After a few more steps, the front half of the case was complete.

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I mated the halves. The front of the transfer case is complete.

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The rear, however, isn’t done yet.

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There is an aluminum tone ring for the output sensor that is pressed onto the output shaft, but it isn’t supposed to be reused after it’s removed - it’s even cast into the ring!

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It’s a hard part to find, but Jeg’s can supposedly get it. I haven’t received a shipment notification after ordering it from them 1.5 weeks ago, but it’s possible the holidays have interfered. If they can’t get it to me after all, I think I will use some Loctite on the used one if I can’t find one somewhere else.

Another part I’m waiting for is a new seal for the selector shaft. I ordered a new one from Rock Auto, but what showed up wasn’t close to correct. After looking at the catalog again, none of the seals listed are correct. This isn’t a Rock Auto problem - I can’t find the right seal by itself in any catalogs. I started looking at seal kits and they show the correct seal in them so I have a kit on order. I wish I had known that up front so I wouldn’t have extra input and output seals.
 
Thanks so much for sharing the details. How did you remove the tone ring for the output shaft? Regular two or 3 jaw puller? I remember there was a fellow on here a couple years ago struggling to rebuild the same unit and he couldn't seem to be able to remove the ring or read that to disassemble the manual said to split/ essentially destroy the part.

Did you re- use the clutch coil or were you able to find a replacement? That also seems to be an elusive part and I'd love to know where to get one if you found a legitimate source
 
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