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1994 K3500 extended cab dually

I wonder if you can find any numbers on the old seal or perhaps get the housing OD and shaft size for the seal ID and just find one by size. Napa usually can find one by the size in their paper catalogs.
 
DieselAmateur said:
Thanks so much for sharing the details. How did you remove the tone ring for the output shaft? Regular two or 3 jaw puller? I remember there was a fellow on here a couple years ago struggling to rebuild the same unit and he couldn't seem to be able to remove the ring or read that to disassemble the manual said to split/ essentially destroy the part.

Did you re- use the clutch coil or were you able to find a replacement? That also seems to be an elusive part and I'd love to know where to get one if you found a legitimate source
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Yeah, I just used a 2-jaw puller to remove it. It came off pretty easily. There's another version of the tone ring that has a smooth bore instead of the splined one like mine - I imagine that one is tougher to remove. The smooth bore tone ring is a little more readily available, but unfortunately it doesn't appear to be backward compatible.

I just re-used the clutch coil. From what I've ready, the synchronizer doesn't seem to be a part that keeps the transfer case from functioning....it's just some added feature they added for some reason. I didn't fiddle with it too much while assembling to try to understand it, but the little I did, I believe it would engage the front output using the friction of the steel discs applied to each other until they slipped enough for the splines to engage. I guess they thought that would be something that someone with a K3500 would want? It doesn't make a ton of sense to me.
 
dbrannon79 said:
I wonder if you can find any numbers on the old seal or perhaps get the housing OD and shaft size for the seal ID and just find one by size. Napa usually can find one by the size in their paper catalogs.
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I was able to find a number on the old seal, but it didn't help me with cross-referencing. I'm not sure the goons at the local Napa would be very helpful in trying to cross-refence this seal - it used to be Napa was where you went for better parts and service around here, but it seems they've dumbed themselves down with the same shlocks that work in the other places.

I did do some creative cataloging later last night to see if I might find the seal, and I think I did. The BW1356 appears to use the same shift shaft seal as the BW4401, and was a much more popular transfer case, as that was used in OBS F150 through F350s. When I was looking for the seal, I was looking up a 1994 F150 to see if I could find the seal, but I was coming up with the same seal I already had (which turns out was for the electrically-shifted case, not the manual one). But then last night I got curious and decided to look at the 1997 transition year when the F150 was the newer style, but the F350 was still the OBS. There was one seal that came up in the RockAuto catalog, and it appears to be the right one:


That number, 710690, is different than what's on the original seal I have, but that does come up with some readily available seals from various manufacturers including Timken. I didn't go out and measure the bore and shaft in the case, but the sizes listed in the catalog do seem reasonable for the application.....the seal I received was much smaller. At this point, I might as well just wait for the seal kit to show up, since that was only $17, so the single seal won't really save me any money, and the truck isn't ready for the case to be installed anyway, but if the seal kit doesn't have what I need, then I can explore that other seal further.
 
I received the seal kit yesterday.

IMG_0981.jpeg

Here are the 3 shift shaft seals I have now. Left to right are: New from kit, New all the catalogs call for (actually for electric shift) and then the new one from the kit. It’s a match.

IMG_0983.jpeg

Here’s a close-up of the original seal:

IMG_0984.jpeg

Here’s a close-up of the correct replacement seal:

IMG_0985.jpeg

I tried looking up the number on the correct seal and I still can’t find anything. The input and output seals have no info on them, so I guess I’m still happy I paid extra for the Timken seals originally.
 
I switched direction this weekend and shifted to some interior things I wanted to address. Once I started driving the truck the dash had started cracking quite a bit. It actually started cracking some during assembly, but at that time I didn’t have another dash, but now I do, so this is a great time to swap it out. I got it removed, exposing all of the wiring I had shoved behind it. Ick. I need to try to simplify this now that I have everything in the truck I want. It was pretty organized when I installed the dash, but then I added more things after the dash was installed and that added some clutter.

IMG_1024.jpeg

The dash really started falling apart on removal. All these parts fell off the dash.

IMG_1035.jpeg

And here are all of the cracks and missing bits.

IMG_1031.jpegIMG_1030.jpegIMG_1029.jpegIMG_1028.jpegIMG_1027.jpegIMG_1026.jpegIMG_1025.jpeg
 
Another thing I wanted to try to tackle with the dash out was the dome lamp - everything electrical in the truck worked upon assembly except for the dome lamp. I figured I had wired something incorrectly. I started diagnosing and found poor conductivity in one wire. Eventually I found the source was a corroded factory splice where 1 wire was spliced to 2 wires. Now the dome light works, so that will be nice.

IMG_1032.jpeg

Last thing I started tackling today was the heater core. This truck had terrible heat performance from the start of the build. I went through everything except the heater core trying to find why I wasn’t gettung enough hear, so I’m going to swap the one from The Brassworks for a GM one. I did a visual comparison and found the Brassworks one has only 12 tubes while the GM one has 21 tubes, so that might explain why I wasn’t getting enough heat. I’ll find out when it’s running again.

IMG_1034.jpeg
 
I never paid any attention but I had replaced the heater core in my 95 with one from the auto parts store a good while back due to it leaking. it's never had a good heater. my 93 will burn you out of the cab. I have never touch the 93 since I bought it last year. maybe this is my issue?

BTW what are you planning on with your dash? full reproduction replacement, custom build one, or trying to save on what you have?

I have found a couple of places that sell a complete ready to paint reproduction dash for this style, one is LMC truck and the other was a site I found online I can't remember what it was called. as for the design, since most all of the dash is mostly flat, I don't think it would take a lot of work to take measurements on the old dash and recreate it using wood. a full wooden dash would be cool to see in these trucks!
 
dbrannon79 said:
I never paid any attention but I had replaced the heater core in my 95 with one from the auto parts store a good while back due to it leaking. it's never had a good heater. my 93 will burn you out of the cab. I have never touch the 93 since I bought it last year. maybe this is my issue?

BTW what are you planning on with your dash? full reproduction replacement, custom build one, or trying to save on what you have?

I have found a couple of places that sell a complete ready to paint reproduction dash for this style, one is LMC truck and the other was a site I found online I can't remember what it was called. as for the design, since most all of the dash is mostly flat, I don't think it would take a lot of work to take measurements on the old dash and recreate it using wood. a full wooden dash would be cool to see in these trucks!
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I have a dash that came out of a Suburban at the junkyard that's in good shape. Hopefully it lasts a while. Good to know there are reproductions available now.
 
Now that is a gem there!

I love this style of dash, only thing I dislike is the options for aftermarket stereos. since my dash is already falling apart, I ended up cutting part of it out to allow the bezel made for a double din stereo install. I'm not fond of the angle it mounts it due to the glare the sunlight puts on it were you can't see the screen that well. I went on the hunt for a single din unit that had one of those double din'ish screens on them that was adjustable.

Finally found one that I could tilt down so it actually would face you flat but it's one of those chineesium units on the jungle site, not sure I want to go that route. Way too much creative modifications for me to possibly mount one in the factory spot next to the gauges for me to even try. I like the bigger screen for use with my phone and the map navigation. Otherwise I would be happy with anything that would BT to my phone for music. I've been pondering the idea of trying to copy the design of this dash building it from wood. then possibly making a slightly larger area below the center vents to allow one of these stereos to sit straight in the dash there. I'm hopeful I will run across a "junk" dash for one if these just for the inner steel section to build off from. since most of the dash are all flat surfaces other than the section the houses the gauges, I don't think it would be too hard to do using oak 1x8's and some oak trim pieces with some steel structure underneath. it would be certainly one of a kind if I could actually pull it off LOL.
 
dbrannon79 said:
Now that is a gem there!

I love this style of dash, only thing I dislike is the options for aftermarket stereos. since my dash is already falling apart, I ended up cutting part of it out to allow the bezel made for a double din stereo install. I'm not fond of the angle it mounts it due to the glare the sunlight puts on it were you can't see the screen that well. I went on the hunt for a single din unit that had one of those double din'ish screens on them that was adjustable.

Finally found one that I could tilt down so it actually would face you flat but it's one of those chineesium units on the jungle site, not sure I want to go that route. Way too much creative modifications for me to possibly mount one in the factory spot next to the gauges for me to even try. I like the bigger screen for use with my phone and the map navigation. Otherwise I would be happy with anything that would BT to my phone for music. I've been pondering the idea of trying to copy the design of this dash building it from wood. then possibly making a slightly larger area below the center vents to allow one of these stereos to sit straight in the dash there. I'm hopeful I will run across a "junk" dash for one if these just for the inner steel section to build off from. since most of the dash are all flat surfaces other than the section the houses the gauges, I don't think it would be too hard to do using oak 1x8's and some oak trim pieces with some steel structure underneath. it would be certainly one of a kind if I could actually pull it off LOL.
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I prefer the 95+ dash, but this style has grown on me. I just use the screen on my phone for GPS, but a larger screen at the upper level of the dash would be nice.
 
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