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1994 K3500 extended cab dually

ak diesel driver said:
I'd forgotten you had the ported precups
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Yeah. I really want to play with different precup sizes and see how they respond, especially with some different injector nozzle designs, but since I knew how they worked with this combo when it was in the Tahoe, I decided to keep using them.
 
Husker6.5 said:
No valve projection issues, I take it? That's good. Are you going to dress the the mouths of the precup ports if the machining of the heads left any sharp(ish) edges?
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Yep, I’ll be examining the edges of the mouth of the precups tomorrow. The edges of the combustion chambers still had a nice break on them I noticed while doing the valves.
 
I probably could have had the truck running tonight, but instead I chose to take advantage of the turbo being removed and I installed a 62mm compressor and wheel kit from Turbo Labs of America. This is up from the 60mm wheel I had in there before, so hopefully this gets me a little more air to help me burn the extra fuel I’ve been seeing after the fuel supply increase. I’ll also be curious to see what this does to the drive/boost ratio since I kept the same 64x76 turbine wheel in it. I also installed a rebuild kit in the bearing housing while I was at it. Kind of fun that my CKO Frankenturbo now has an actual Holset part on it.

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Oh so close to getting it fired up tonight. I forget how long that last damn bolt takes to bolt the turbo down to the manifold. I wish my fingers had about five more knuckles when trying to reach back there. Then another little time suck was drilling and tapping the outlet of the intercooler for future water-meth nozzles. At this point it just needs to be filled with oil and water, prime the fuel system and it can be started. If all is well, then install the air intake, the passenger side inner fender and both front wheels, the hood and it’s ready to go drive.
 
Drove it tonight. So far I’m really enjoying the turbo upgrade - it appears to be building boost quicker than before, but I don’t have objective data to support that, just “feel” so far. Something that isn’t right is the water temp……before I took it apart the water temp was a bit low, even though I had a new AC Delco thermostat in it. So while it was apart this time I bought another AC Delco thermostat in case the other one was defective. Well now it’s even lower than before. Below is a pic of the temp gauge after about 20 minutes of driving, when it was up to 170 after about 30 minutes of idling……l definitely have some kind of thermostat issue to get resolved.

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Husker6.5 said:
Sender issue?
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It’s a mechanical gauge, plumbed into the back of the passenger side head. Still can’t rule the gauge out as an issue though.

I was just thinking about the heater circuit: I have a brass barb coming out of the thermostat crossover. That barb has a really large ID, larger than a typical steel heater hose nipple. And then I think the factory heater fitting there has an even smaller ID than that…..probably by design? So I wonder if I’m allowing too much coolant to bypass the thermostat just through that heater circuit? And then, I have that coolant filter on the fender with a large aluminum filter head, which could be bleeding heat off as well. So between those two things, I wonder if I’m defeating the thermostat? Before I changed the gaskets, it was running about 170-175 on a 70 degree day, while yesterday it was even cooler on a 70 degree day, so maybe the new stat I bought is also opening too early? I’m going to test the old thermostat in a pan on the stove to verify its operation, if it opens at the correct temp, then I’ll put it back in and explore the heater circuit flowing too much.
 
Ok, some more data: I put the thermostat I removed during the gasket change in a pot on the stove. It started opening at 190, so I know this thermostat is good. I put that thermostat back in, as well as added the ball valve for the heater circuit and then drove the truck for a bit with the ball valve closed. The hottest I saw on the gauge was 168 degrees. Hmmm.

So I got home and shut the truck off. After unloading stuff from the truck the gauge had crept up to 180. I drove to the barn and grabbed my IR thermometer and checked temps with it idling.

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I’m so glad I invested in an expensive mechanical gauge. Perhaps I damaged the capillary tube during the gasket change? This is frustrating. And snaking that tube out is going to suck with how I routed everything. I did it with the thought it would never need to be done again. I guess I need to decide what to replace it with now….

And I’ve found a new problem: I have a fuel leak at the IP. So I get to pull the intake and see where that’s coming from. I probably won’t be doing that today as tomorrow we’re leaving for a vacation, so I’ll be doing that when I get back. Hopefully it’s an easy fix and I can have the truck ready to drive to Dinosaur Camp next Friday morning. I am not sitting with the truck where I wanted to be just a week before that trip.
 
Your engine temps always confused me. I'm glad you figured it out. I have always relied on ProComp gauges for the stuff I have done in the past.

A fuel leak is not what you need! (insert facepalm)
 
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