• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

1994 K3500 extended cab dually

n8in8or said:
I had another delay with the driver door: I forgot there were problems with the driver side lock cylinder so once I started looking at it now I found I needed a new cylinder and the handle was kind of messed up as well, so more parts to order.....

So I shifted my focus to some details that needed to be addressed. In no particular order I added some Earl’s heat sleeve to the fuel lines where they were close to the exhaust. I installed the NOS cruise control cable I got lucky finding on eBay since mine was broken. I installed new hydroboost hoses. I cut the original connector off the Raptor pump and added a Weatherpack connector to it, then I finished the wiring for the lift pump. The last thing I did was finish all of the grounds on the driver side of the engine compartment - I tied the body, the frame and the engine all together at the ground stud I put in the firewall. With this stuff done I THINK the driver side is done until the front clip is reinstalled.

View attachment 63906View attachment 63907View attachment 63908View attachment 63909View attachment 63910View attachment 63911View attachment 63912View attachment 63913
Click to expand...
WOW, I love the use of AN fittings, braided hose and the fire sleeves. You never cease to amaze me with your skill-sets another AWESOME for you...
 
The outside door handle and lock cylinder showed up late yesterday so today I could finish getting the driver door together. I laid the inner panel on the shell and found an “uh-oh”..... the 97 door shell and 94 inner panel aren’t a fit. Come to find out, there’s a bump-in on the earlier door shells that the later shells don’t have. My solution was to cut that bump-in off the inner panel since it doesn’t have a purpose. I’m guessing the first GMT400 trucks had some kind of door handle there that needed the clearance? The inside of my 94’s panels are flat and don’t need this clearance.

8FEAF387-B832-43FB-8942-3D1CF644BB66.jpeg5D4CC511-B927-49F0-A8C3-939F2187B7C2.jpeg404E82AB-6320-4FD9-A9FA-BF6AA8A1DDC3.jpeg

After getting that sorted out and then fighting with the linkages I got the inner panel bolted down I applied a layer of the Kilmat. Hopefully the doors are nice and quiet now with all this deadener on them. I also remembered that the lower inner patch panel didn’t have the holes for the bottom weatherstrip so I laid those out and drilled them so I could install it.

18DA70A2-AC60-4294-B855-4BF83DB68889.jpeg

After replacing the hinge roller and replacing the hinge bushings I got the door muscled into place and installed. It opens and closes really nice so that makes me happy. I installed the new outer window sweep from Steele Rubber and then fished the wires inside the kick panel.

5B90D1F3-C76F-4428-BA6A-783B0CDC1D4C.jpeg8917E2E3-C39B-457A-81D5-1C6B5D391B0E.jpeg
79F2B1A6-B2C1-4F79-9FA4-358C7F24AD67.jpeg

I can’t put the inner panels in yet because I need to run wiring for power tow mirrors.

I also finally installed the parking brake cable adjuster, which was another wrestling match.

5764BD84-81E8-407F-BE26-2E71FF673541.jpeg

I thought I’d have more done today, but as usual things took longer than expected. It’s gratifying progress to see a door reinstalled on the truck though.
 
ak diesel driver said:
Got any tips on wrestling those door locks? Also where did you find the right keyed locks? Last time I checked with flaps they could get locks but couldn't get them with keys to match what I had
Click to expand...
I don’t have much in the way for tips. I did find it worked better attaching the latch rod to the outer handle, removing the latch from the door, install outer handle then install latch. The rest of it was mumbling the right words while holding my tongue in my teeth just right. They sure don’t give you any extra room to work in there.

These are the lock cylinders I got. Since mine’s a 94, the door and ignition are different keys.

ACDelco D528A Professional Door Lock Cylinder with Key https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012PEG8...abc_KNXD6E3MDBKYRPXPEX8N?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
 
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
Sooo.... I sent my truck to the body shop with the driver's door off to make it easier to paint the jamb and inner door (interior panel removed from door). After taking 2 months more than he said it would, I got it back with the door on the truck, but the guy said he had a hard time with the linkages. I ran all the wiring for door the locks and switches, and hit the lock button. Not much happens. I see the rod TRY to move the lock, but it can't. So I just very lightly assist the rod when I hit the button, and Clunk! The rod moves as it should. Lock,unlock,lock,unlock... we're good. Did I mention that I was inside the truck with the door closed when all this happened? I unlock and pull the door handle- nothing! I climb out the passenger side and try to open it from the outside- nothing. I put the key in the lock to see if it was locked- Nothing! No resistance at all. I am now a very happy camper! So I learned how to tear the guts out of the door and realized that he only had one of the rods attached right, and that both the lock rods came off when I hit the button. He had the interior side lock rod in Backwards.
Two evenings with a newly shortened index finger later, it was back in working order.

This is why we should NEVER let anyone else touch our trucks!
 
93detroit said:
Sooo.... I sent my truck to the body shop with the driver's door off to make it easier to paint the jamb and inner door (interior panel removed from door). After taking 2 months more than he said it would, I got it back with the door on the truck, but the guy said he had a hard time with the linkages. I ran all the wiring for door the locks and switches, and hit the lock button. Not much happens. I see the rod TRY to move the lock, but it can't. So I just very lightly assist the rod when I hit the button, and Clunk! The rod moves as it should. Lock,unlock,lock,unlock... we're good. Did I mention that I was inside the truck with the door closed when all this happened? I unlock and pull the door handle- nothing! I climb out the passenger side and try to open it from the outside- nothing. I put the key in the lock to see if it was locked- Nothing! No resistance at all. I am now a very happy camper! So I learned how to tear the guts out of the door and realized that he only had one of the rods attached right, and that both the lock rods came off when I hit the button. He had the interior side lock rod in Backwards.
Two evenings with a newly shortened index finger later, it was back in working order.

This is why we should NEVER let anyone else touch our trucks!
Click to expand...
Sounds fun! It's so hard to find good help anymore. The rods definitely weren't intuitive to hook up, but luckily I had other doors here that I could look at for reference and that helped a lot. I replaced the outer door handle on the Tahoe years ago and I didn't remember it being that bad to do, but maybe I just put the experience out of my mind?
 
n8in8or said:
I decided that at this point it was silly to leave the original front brake lines on, so I made new ones tonight. Man that nickel-copper tubing sure is nice to work with!View attachment 63942View attachment 63943
Click to expand...
I see the rag joint has been eliminated...the other mod I do recommend is the S&S dual tapered bearing idler arm bracket.
 
FellowTraveler said:
I see the rag joint has been eliminated...the other mod I do recommend is the S&S dual tapered bearing idler arm bracket.
Click to expand...
Yep, I did the XJ mod late last year. I have a Super Steer idler arm, but I'm using that on the red truck. When I do the GMT800 brake conversion on this truck I'll do the Super Steer and a steering box upgrade (probably Red Head).
 
n8in8or said:
Yep, I did the XJ mod late last year. I have a Super Steer idler arm, but I'm using that on the red truck. When I do the GMT800 brake conversion on this truck I'll do the Super Steer and a steering box upgrade (probably Red Head).
Click to expand...
The best steering box IMO is the PSC 6 bolt top conversion...
 
There is also chatter in the Ferd forums about a fall-off of red head quality.

In terms of alternatives, I just had to exchange a blue top with ~500 miles on it. The exchange is free under warranty (including shipping), but labor is not :(
 
In thinking a bit more about the Red Head commentary and my Blue Top experience, it almost makes sense that QC is a challenge. Both outfits recondition used units, and these units are ~20+ years old with an unknown amount of miles on them. Sure, the idea is to only use cores with good bones, but at this stage it seems that getting a source of good bones is not a guarantee.

Do agree that for the prices, we should expect better quality though.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top