1994 K3500 extended cab dually

[n8in8or]

Toilet wax ring

I feel like that would go well with the sh!tty old tank

 

[Duvall]

Thanks Duvall!

I usetacould be able to lay TIG welds on thicker carbon steel that I wasn’t ashamed of, with practice I should be able to get there again and on a wider range of materials. This thinnish stainless in an awkward layout has proven to be quite a challenge for my rusty skills.

The lift pump is a gerotor. I would hope it would be easier for it to prime with the larger tube since the purpose of it is to make it easier for the pump to run, but I guess I’ll be finding out soon.

My return line for the pressure regulator return is -8 Russell Pro Classic II AN hose. My return mine for the IP and injectors is 5/16” 30r9 fuel injection hose.

The return-style regulator is probably overkill, but I’ve been wanting to try it for a while so I decided to give it a go while I had the opportunity.

I know that gerotor and vane pumps don't like to be dry. I think gerotor even more so. I'm sure the large tube will help with priming,. That's a large volume of air its got to get through first.

Did you decide to run hose rather than hard line for the ease of mounting?

I wouldn't say your return regulator is overkill. I know you are looking for 25psi at the IP. Your lift pump pressure must be well above that. Return style regulator will give you more consistent pressure at your injection pump. Its going to be a slick setup.

 

[n8in8or]

I know that gerotor and vane pumps don't like to be dry. I think gerotor even more so. I'm sure the large tube will help with priming,. That's a large volume of air its got to get through first.

Did you decide to run hose rather than hard line for the ease of mounting?

I wouldn't say your return regulator is overkill. I know you are looking for 25psi at the IP. Your lift pump pressure must be well above that. Return style regulator will give you more consistent pressure at your injection pump. Its going to be a slick setup.

Ah yes, more air to deal with pre-fuel, good call. I don’t know how much it will help, but I think I’ll pull the pre-filter off and fill it with fuel to help reduce the volume of air pre-pump. In fact I can probably shoot some fuel into the 45 degree hose between the filter and pump which should quickly prime the pump and then it should be able to work through the slug of air in between the tank and filter.

Yeah I chose hose over hard line for simplicity’s sake.

 

[ak diesel driver]

I used my shop vac to blow into the tank to lightly pressurize it until the pump was primed. IIRC mine wouldn't prime on it's own

 

[n8in8or]

I used my shop vac to blow into the tank to lightly pressurize it until the pump was primed. IIRC mine wouldn't prime on it's own

I never had problems with mine priming when it was in the Tahoe.

 

[Will L.]

I used my shop vac to blow into the tank to lightly pressurize it until the pump was primed. IIRC mine wouldn't prime on it's own

On gear driven pump, thats a sign of air leak. Usually, Gear pumps are self priming, and can draw into vacuum easily.

A trick for gear pumps (industrial anyway) is use a thicker version of the pump material to pack the gears with. Like gear driven fuel or oil pumps the normal thing is thin grease or Vaseline. Helps the seal occur faster and lubricates until the liquid is there. Idk if I would wantto do anything with one on the lift pump however.

 

[ak diesel driver]

IIRC it actually talked about priming in the instructions or maybe it was the tech guy I talked to. Said it most likely wouldn't prime on its own

 

[MrMarty51]

Thanks for mentioning this. I don't know about cracking, but I totally flaked out on the carbon promoting corrosion. I have some stainless wire wheels on order and I'll be cleaning it up after I receive those.

The carbon drawn to the surface creates hardening of the steel on the surface and vibrations and rattlings will help to promote cracks and cracking.

 

[n8in8or]

Got the bracket installed for the fuel pressure regulator, fuel pressure gauge isolator and the oil pressure sender.

 

[n8in8or]

I got the label from the decal maker. I’m really pleased with how it turned out and how nicely it finishes off the panel



I also removed the sending unit and wire wheeled the welds with stainless wire wheels. I got it reinstalled and then installed the tank under the truck. I finished up starting to run the fuel lines. It would sure be nice to have a hydraulic hose crimper rather than use the reusable swivels.....some of these can be a real bear to get together.

 

[Twisted Steel Performance]

No por15 on the tank ?

 

[n8in8or]

No por15 on the tank ?

I put KBS Rust Seal on the lower half of the tank and on the tank under the crossmembers on the top.

 

[FellowTraveler]

No por15 on the tank ?

UV degrades POR15, better products is the one Nate mentions and DuraBak which has UV inhibitors and is MIL SPEC. US NAVY uses it.

 

[n8in8or]

UV degrades POR15, better products is the one Nate mentions and DuraBak which has UV inhibitors and is MIL SPEC. US NAVY uses it.

Rust Seal also degrades from UV, but it will see limited UV where it is under the truck. I'll have to look into that DuraBak.

 

[n8in8or]

This weekend I got the pre-IP fuel filter mounted. I had been planning on mounting it to the fender or core support, but Friday night I was looking at things closer and determined I could hang it off the alternator bracket. This is a good thing because now I can finish all fuel plumbing before hanging the front clip. Unfortunately I need a couple different hose ends and won’t have those until Monday so I wasn’t able to finish the fuel system this weekend.



I also got the fuel pressure and oil pressure gauges plumbed with -4 hose. The FP gauge hose is filled with antifreeze between the isolator and the gauge.



I made a new block off plate for the rear of the passenger side head and tapped it 1/2” NPT for the water temp gauge. And hooked up the EGT probe.

 

[Duvall]

You could have a picnic in the space above the transmission.

 

[n8in8or]

You could have a picnic in the space above the transmission.

Yeah there’s a lot of room back there when the factory fuel and wiring are cleaned up. A picnic isn’t really the thought I had in mind for that space though.....

 

[Will L.]

It’s so he can tighten that loose bell housing bolt ... haha
Water to air inner cooler area?

 

[Rockabillyrat]

Perfect spot for a turbo

 

[n8in8or]

Finally got the fuel system basically done. I’m waiting on some more hose separators to hold the hose better in a couple spots. I also need to wrap the hoses close to the exhaust and then I also need to spray the cavity wax on the top of the FSU and tank. Everything is new from the fuel filler to the inlet of the injection pump.....well with the exception of the lift pump I’m reusing from the Tahoe. It took a while, but I think it turned out really well and it should support a pretty stout IP in the future should I choose to do so......