As far as sealing it all when your done, install it on the tank, when it's all finished melt a pot of way and pour it on and let it cover the entire area and even on the tank area, if you can find bees wax that would work well....
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1994 K3500 extended cab dually
- Thread starter n8in8or
- Start date
Husker6.5
135' diagonal 16:9HD, 25KW sound!
Or you can use some of that shit from the TV Infomercial where the guy makes a bass boat out of chicken wire and his miracle coating!
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
Love this idea! I was thinking about putting paint all over the flange and ring, but cringing at the thought of having to disassemble it if that ever became necessary. This will work awesome, thanks for the idea!!
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
I can ride my gas tank like a kayak!
The factory does it with something, not sure what but it stays soft, mine had it and I'm sure it had never been touched...
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
I can’t believe I spent all day working on the FSU....I thought the time consuming stuff was yesterday. As it turns out that wasn’t a bad thing since some fittings I was expecting to receive today aren’t showing up until tomorrow now.
I got the braces for the tubes installed. The tubes are hella rigid now.
Next I made a foot for the suction tube. I wanted a foot so if the tank got hit from the bottom, the suction tube wouldn’t become a giant hole punch in the floor of the tank. Also if the tank got popped from below I didn’t want it to blind the pickup. This took a while to determine what I wanted to do here. First I had to extend the tube a little so it reached as far as possible without compromising flow. I calculated the gap needed to be just over .200” (can’t remember the exact number now) so I took some of the tube I had cut off the top part of the elbow and welded it to the bottom end. Then I made a plate out of some of the extra stainless sheet I had and cut some legs out of it as well. I did some trial fitting using a hose clamp to secure the foot to the tube so it could move if it hit the floor of the tank first. I did this a couple times and got it dialed in. I also added a hole to the bottom of the foot.....just on the odd chance that it got hit so hard that the foot collapsed to the tube, then it could at least suck through the hole hopefully, assuming the bottom of the tank fell away a little, at least it won’t leave me stranded hopefully.
Then I made the return tube extensions. I was able to snake tubes 19” long through the opening, so they reach pretty far back in the tank. I welded a strap between them so they won’t flail all over in the tank. I used 30R10 submersible fuel hose and stainless ear clamps to secure them - I didn’t like the thought of a worm gear clamp potentially coming apart in the tank so that’s why I chose those.
And here it is installed. I didn’t engage the lock ring yet in case I thought of something overnight and needed to easily remove it. Which I’m already thinking I will - I think I need to add some gussets to the legs of the foot to make those more crush-resistant.
I got the braces for the tubes installed. The tubes are hella rigid now.
Next I made a foot for the suction tube. I wanted a foot so if the tank got hit from the bottom, the suction tube wouldn’t become a giant hole punch in the floor of the tank. Also if the tank got popped from below I didn’t want it to blind the pickup. This took a while to determine what I wanted to do here. First I had to extend the tube a little so it reached as far as possible without compromising flow. I calculated the gap needed to be just over .200” (can’t remember the exact number now) so I took some of the tube I had cut off the top part of the elbow and welded it to the bottom end. Then I made a plate out of some of the extra stainless sheet I had and cut some legs out of it as well. I did some trial fitting using a hose clamp to secure the foot to the tube so it could move if it hit the floor of the tank first. I did this a couple times and got it dialed in. I also added a hole to the bottom of the foot.....just on the odd chance that it got hit so hard that the foot collapsed to the tube, then it could at least suck through the hole hopefully, assuming the bottom of the tank fell away a little, at least it won’t leave me stranded hopefully.
Then I made the return tube extensions. I was able to snake tubes 19” long through the opening, so they reach pretty far back in the tank. I welded a strap between them so they won’t flail all over in the tank. I used 30R10 submersible fuel hose and stainless ear clamps to secure them - I didn’t like the thought of a worm gear clamp potentially coming apart in the tank so that’s why I chose those.
And here it is installed. I didn’t engage the lock ring yet in case I thought of something overnight and needed to easily remove it. Which I’m already thinking I will - I think I need to add some gussets to the legs of the foot to make those more crush-resistant.
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
I made some not so pretty gussets, but they’ll make the foot assembly stronger so that’s the important thing.
Now the FSU is installed in the tank. I painted where the crossmembers hit the tank with KBS and put some foam tape to protect the tank. Tomorrow it should be in its home.
Now the FSU is installed in the tank. I painted where the crossmembers hit the tank with KBS and put some foam tape to protect the tank. Tomorrow it should be in its home.
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
This is what mine looked like when I removed it. Dissecting what the factory did would have been a wild guess at best.
looks like 
Husker6.5
135' diagonal 16:9HD, 25KW sound!
Roofing tar for a sealer?
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
What the factory did or what I could do?
Husker6.5
135' diagonal 16:9HD, 25KW sound!
Either/or, Nate. Just a thought based off of observation seeing fuel tanks at the U-Pull-It yard. Black and rubbery hard, like that roofing patch asphalt stuff you get at Menards after it's cured a month or so. Easy to apply, will do a great job of sealing everything up and would allow later removal of the FSU in the future, if needed.
Husker6.5
135' diagonal 16:9HD, 25KW sound!
Or, there's always that stuff that Infomercial guy sells that he makes a chicken wire bass boat with, seals the whiskey barrel yard fountain he cuts with a chainsaw with and seals the leaking basement window with the flooded window well with.
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
Gotcha. What I've been leaning towards now is the Cavity Wax KBS sells. It's designed to creep into small cracks and seal surfaces. And it would be a thin coating that wouldn't impede disassembly. I have some of it leftover from doing the rockers and cab corners so I already have it on-hand as well.
smokymtn65
Well-Known Member
Toilet wax ring
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
If the welded together sending unit/fuel tube system can still be removed, use a bead blaster, wire brush or grinder and remove the blued steel from the tubes especially. That blue is carbon drawn to the surface and will promote cracking. just sayin.
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
Thanks for mentioning this. I don't know about cracking, but I totally flaked out on the carbon promoting corrosion. I have some stainless wire wheels on order and I'll be cleaning it up after I receive those.
Duvall
6.5 lives matter
Good work Nate!
All that welding will look good under the bed, just like my welding.
Is your "lift" (dare I call it that) pump a vane or gerotor type? I'm curious how it will prime the first time with a pickup tube that big.
What type of return line are you running? Tube rather than hose I would assume?
I decide to go with a deadhead type regulator with what I am doing. I didn't feel like running another return line and it should be fine with my low pressures.
All that welding will look good under the bed, just like my welding.
Is your "lift" (dare I call it that) pump a vane or gerotor type? I'm curious how it will prime the first time with a pickup tube that big.
What type of return line are you running? Tube rather than hose I would assume?
I decide to go with a deadhead type regulator with what I am doing. I didn't feel like running another return line and it should be fine with my low pressures.
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
Thanks Duvall!Good work Nate!
All that welding will look good under the bed, just like my welding.
Is your "lift" (dare I call it that) pump a vane or gerotor type? I'm curious how it will prime the first time with a pickup tube that big.
What type of return line are you running? Tube rather than hose I would assume?
I decide to go with a deadhead type regulator with what I am doing. I didn't feel like running another return line and it should be fine with my low pressures.
I usetacould be able to lay TIG welds on thicker carbon steel that I wasn’t ashamed of, with practice I should be able to get there again and on a wider range of materials. This thinnish stainless in an awkward layout has proven to be quite a challenge for my rusty skills.
The lift pump is a gerotor. I would hope it would be easier for it to prime with the larger tube since the purpose of it is to make it easier for the pump to run, but I guess I’ll be finding out soon.
My return line for the pressure regulator return is -8 Russell Pro Classic II AN hose. My return mine for the IP and injectors is 5/16” 30r9 fuel injection hose.
The return-style regulator is probably overkill, but I’ve been wanting to try it for a while so I decided to give it a go while I had the opportunity.
Husker6.5
135' diagonal 16:9HD, 25KW sound!
That KBS Cavity Wax should do the trick just fine, Nate.