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1992 6.5TD Rescue

Depending on my mud in radiator find I just made and how expensive the repair will be it's getting even closer to time to used my spare 6.2 engine or find one on Craigslist
 
When I added a turbo my mpg got better. Same with turbovanman.

I turned up my fuel screw a bit too far and dump a big puff when full throttle from a stop.

I cranked the fuel screw, cant remember how much, would have to look at my notes. I swapped n/a injectors for factory turbo injectors with same basic mileage on them.

I say have a turbo, balanced 2350 psi injectors, but keep the fuel screw at n/a setting, mabe 1/16 turn up and youll do good.
Then use a fuel solenoid from a cummins hooked to your turbo wastegate to kill the turbo for flat freeway speed if you go with one of the asthma spinners you have on your shelf as a paperweight.

After that 2cents, I'm broke.

And oh yeah, when I went to get the van 6.5td engine from Phoenix in the wifes suburban, I was REALLY wishing I had a pickup.
 
Cooling fan is messed up. PS pulley also bent.

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And then 'they put What in backwards!?'

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Although it was tempting to drop it and see if it ran, well, we are looking at it and easy to pull the heads at this point. Damper is, of course, shot and had a groove worn in it slinging oil everywhere. No doubt the rings are toast.

Glowplugs. Maybe the folks recently new to IDI diesels don't know how good we have it with self limiting glow plugs. I like diesels that do without glowplugs due to this exact reason. Driver side impacts.

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The passenger side that didn't have a lot of impact damage, well, they were cracked and one with 3 cracks.

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There are 3 cracks in the same general area.
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The heads appear to be good although they were hot. The rocker buttons all melted some and come loose.
 
"1986 the year I somehow get hold of the most per the air cleaner emissions label. 599 block." The 599 block casting means this was a replacement engine for the 1986. Looking at the head casting numbers matching the 1992 6.5... There appears to be a misprint in the military manual about bore sizes for 6.2's and 6.5's. Short answer is 6.5's are over 4" while 6.2" are under 4". I had to measure the bore's as 6.5/6.2 isn't cast on this block as GM could have punched it to either size I guess.

I have the 599 in the undersize 6.2 flavor and this means NOS pistons are way cheaper than 6.5 pistons at the moment. Got to flip it over and see if the mains are cracked.

Meanwhile looking at the heads I find weird valve spring hammering wear. Only 1 exhaust valve tip is flaking.

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Not only is the damper shot, but, the seal groove worn in is impressive.

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The parts engine also had shot cam bearings. Cast Iron doesn't weld well so off to scrap it goes. Just too much risk to build it with a known bad starter area.

Anyway some progress.

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Good to see it going together. Still cant believe you don't run the spinon water pump. Check Pm again...
 
Good to see it going together. Still cant believe you don't run the spinon water pump. Check Pm again...

It's getting a used KD low temp fan clutch and that's the only reason for a 4 bolt pump. KD makes the spin on low temp clutches now.

Put the timing gear in this one?

The gears are intended for the Rat Rod Patch. This truck is a cheap as possible overhaul with splurge for cooling system upgrades and gapless rings. It is truly a rescue that turned into way misunderestmated work and time to get it done. Got to get this one out of the way so I can swap the IP on Patch and other work as I feel up to it.

I still have to replace all the studs on the passinger front wheel due to PO running them loose and change the rear hub seals that are leaking before I even dare drive it again. AC gets a flush, new accumulator, and new refrigerant. Already has a junkyard R134 condenser. Oh yeah, maybe even put the engine back in... o_O

The parts 6.2 block had the starter mount busted was the ONLY reason to scrap it. :dead:

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Proper tool to install valve stem seals. Fel-Pro exhaust seals included the tool. Victor-reinz didn't. You don't want to nick them and the straw idea of mine was doing just that. Both the positive exhaust and intake oring need the tool to install.

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More progress...

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Little side work to be safe on the road. Replaced ruined lug nuts on passenger front. Rim was also trashed, but, PO bolted it back on... :nailbiting: We have new rims anyway. (Jack stand is behind caliper in pic.)

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More progress...

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Some real hose for the turbo oil drain. We will see about the flame resistant...

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Fought us every 1/4" of the way in starting with clearance issues on the garage door. Scraped up the nice new oil pan paint and dented the oil filter. Then the Yankee bolts from the transmission bell-housing were forgotten. Recalled 1hour later after the exhaust header bolts just wouldn't fit... One of the yank bolts with the fuel line brackets got the stud hacked off to speed up install.

Note to self... Test new oil cooler line adapters on the Fing oil cooler lines before installing... engine! Removed oil cooler adapters from engine under truck, fished oid ones out of scrap metal bucket, swapped Orings, tossed new ones in bucket, reinstalled.

Yeah, we had to set it down to adjust the chain. There was no head room to use the engine tilt bar tool I have.

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The good news is the Dmax fan clears with no shroud trimming. :D
 
BTW it was a RECORD 95 degrees Saturday... The last Day of Winter. So this is why the pictures are after dark. Any bets on how many parts I still have to replace on the AC system? The condenser is already a junkyard R134a unit. Accumulator is already in stock. Yeah that a Harrison tagged compressor on there. (KD fan clutch as well.)

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