79jasper
Active Member
I might have missed it.
Did you spray or roll it on?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
Did you spray or roll it on?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
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1990 F350 4x4 7.3 IDI
- Thread starter n8in8or
- Start date
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
I rolled it on. I bought a kit that they sell that includes a brush, 2 foam roller pads and a roller handle. I bought the kit with a gallon and an extra quart, but the gallon alone did 3 liberal coats.
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
Truck started acceptably well after sitting for 24 hours. It started well enough that as long as it continues to start that well I will not be chasing problems any longer. I think what is left is old IP issues....and I don't want to be buying a new IP until I put a turbo on this, since I'll be going with more fuel at that time and I would hate to buy IPs twice.
Time to move on to other stuff.
Time to move on to other stuff.
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
Truck started well both times today, 12 hours apart. I'll do a video to show where it is now, one of these times.....
Picked up a used seat out of a 96 F250 from a local-ish guy that was listed on Craigslist. It's a little dirty, but it's structurally sound, which is more than I can say for the 2 seats I already owned as options. $65 was a lot cheaper than what I would have spent to fix another seat. I'm going to try cleaning it, but I haven't decided what I'll do beyond that - do I leave it gray even though the rest of the interior is red? Do I try dying it red? I'm not sure it's worth the effort. I have a gray set of seatbelts stashed in the attic, but I don't think I want to try to get to them, so i think I'll be keeping the stock red seat belts.
The first pic is the "new" seat and the next two show the broken bottoms of the other 2 seats I had.
Picked up a used seat out of a 96 F250 from a local-ish guy that was listed on Craigslist. It's a little dirty, but it's structurally sound, which is more than I can say for the 2 seats I already owned as options. $65 was a lot cheaper than what I would have spent to fix another seat. I'm going to try cleaning it, but I haven't decided what I'll do beyond that - do I leave it gray even though the rest of the interior is red? Do I try dying it red? I'm not sure it's worth the effort. I have a gray set of seatbelts stashed in the attic, but I don't think I want to try to get to them, so i think I'll be keeping the stock red seat belts.
The first pic is the "new" seat and the next two show the broken bottoms of the other 2 seats I had.
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
Twice I have attempted cold start videos, and twice they have been video fails. At least you can still hear the starts!! I don't know how I got so lucky the first time I did this....
I'm definitely still getting air, but it happens so quickly that I'm thinking it's in the IP itself. It starts well enough now that I'm going to leave it as-is until it's time to add the turbo or the pump dies - whichever comes first. If it ever becomes a problem during driving then I'll probably try to find a good used pump.
Enjoy my fails!!
I'm definitely still getting air, but it happens so quickly that I'm thinking it's in the IP itself. It starts well enough now that I'm going to leave it as-is until it's time to add the turbo or the pump dies - whichever comes first. If it ever becomes a problem during driving then I'll probably try to find a good used pump.
Enjoy my fails!!
Will L.
Well-Known Member
So, the clear line test is actually to replace the return line and the supply line for the IP. Then if you get bubbles coming out, but no bubbles going in: you punch the fender and curse...I mean you rebuild the ip.
Bubbles coming in means search and destroy the air leaking hose and the IP is possibly ok.
Everyone just replaces the return only because it is so easy to reach, and 99.9+% of the time it is not a faulty IP. But ya know, Ford and all...
Bubbles coming in means search and destroy the air leaking hose and the IP is possibly ok.
Everyone just replaces the return only because it is so easy to reach, and 99.9+% of the time it is not a faulty IP. But ya know, Ford and all...
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
Holy sh*t.....why didn't I think about having it on the inlet too?? I will do that, just to see. I will focus on that wisdom, and not your Ford bashing - just think about it being more IH and Stanadyne than Ford, ok Will??So, the clear line test is actually to replace the return line and the supply line for the IP. Then if you get bubbles coming out, but no bubbles going in: you punch the fender and curse...I mean you rebuild the ip.
Bubbles coming in means search and destroy the air leaking hose and the IP is possibly ok.
Everyone just replaces the return only because it is so easy to reach, and 99.9+% of the time it is not a faulty IP. But ya know, Ford and all...
Will L.
Well-Known Member
I really like most Fords- just have to play...
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
Wow, it's been a while since I've updated this project! Life has been getting in the way and I'm convinced that the house hates me and is breaking things just to tick me off.... but now that I've taken care of some needed things (like central air) I can get back to some things that I want to do. I don't have a lot to update yet. The first thing is I cleaned the "new" seat and installed it. It cleaned up pretty good with a mixture of Dawn soap, vinegar, club soda and a stiff bristle brush. That was a couple weeks ago. And then today I finally cleaned the weld remnants from the Dana 80 and got the old Sterling axle removed. There were some wedge shims in the springs that had deteriorated so now that those fell off I need to get new center bolts for the springs. That's where I will start tomorrow.
Jaryd
Extremely Deplorable
It looks good man. I see you were able to get that stain out of the middle of the seat.
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
Thanks. Yep, it came out without too much effort. The worst part was getting the soap mixture rinsed off the seat. Next time I need to be less liberal in my application of it.
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
Today I got the Dana 80 centered and pinion angle set to within .05* of parallel with the transfer case output. The spring perches are tacked in place now. Tomorrow I will get the new shock brackets tacked in place and then pull the axle back out to finish weld everything.
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
The Dana 80 is installed. For those of you that like to zoom in and inspect - yes, the shock mounts aren't 100% symmetrical, but I did locate them with the shocks in the truck, and I made sure they were both the same distance from the backing plates and from the ground....apparently I just got a little more twist in one than the other. Both of them bolted up fine at the time of assembly so I don't think there's anything to be concerned with. For some reason the pinion seal decided to leak overnight, but I suppose it was better for it to happen now rather than under the truck, so I spent a fair amount of time replacing that this afternoon (I didn't have a puller large enough for the yoke so I tried doing it without, but after struggling far too long and I was worried about damaging the bearings so I finally just bought the right puller.....amazing how fast you can do something when you have the right tool!!!). The actual axle install went pretty smooth and now I'm ready for the next thing.
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
And speaking of the next thing.....the speedometer doesn't work, which I diagnosed as toasted speedo gears in the transfer case. Taking the tailhousing off revealed a worn out drive gear.... that was affixed to the output shaft with RTV!!! So I dug out another transfer case I had and lucky enough it had the gear and retainer parts I needed, but something was wrong....there was no pocket in the shaft of the truck's transfer case to accept the gear retaining ball! Ah ha! Apparently this case is out of a newer truck that didn't have a cable drive speedo and someone tried adapting it. So I started inspecting the other case to see if it was worthy to swap in....nope, the shift lever just spins on the shaft. Lucky enough, I had a 3rd transfer case that was good to go! It's fun having a parts hoard So tomorrow will be a transfer case swap.
The worn gears. Note the blue RTV
Here's what the gears should have. Note the retaining bits in my hand and the pocket in the shaft.
No pocket here.
The case that will be going in tomorrow.
So tomorrow will be a transfer case swap. The worn gears. Note the blue RTV
Here's what the gears should have. Note the retaining bits in my hand and the pocket in the shaft.
No pocket here.
The case that will be going in tomorrow.
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
Transfer case is swapped. It took a bit longer than I expected because the parts store didn't have the input seal in stock and then once I got the case installed I found out that the front yokes aren't the same after all. The cap-to-cap dimension, which is what I had measured, is the same, but the bolt pattern is different. This transfer case came out of an F250, but the F250 and F350 use the same case (BW1356). The difference is that the F250 has a u-joint at the case and the F350 has a CV joint at the case. So I had to also swap the yoke between the two cases. But now it's all done and I even have the reworked driveshaft with the 1410 yoke at the rear end.
The F250 yoke is on the left and the F350 is on the right.
So then it was time for the next thing, which is the hydroboost swap. I got the master cylinder, brake booster, pedals and steering column pulled without too much trouble. Then it was the next thing: installing an aftermarket brace. You Ford haters will enjoy this: Apparently, it isn't uncommon for the firewall to crack at the clutch master cylinder on manual transmission trucks. It was so common that Ford had a service bulletin and a brace to install at that location. Of course Ford has long since discontinued this part, but the issue is still enough of a problem that a guy is making them himself under the company name Terrapin Manufacturing. It's a nicely made part. Installing it was a bit of a chore, but I eventually got it. I used the clutch cylinder and steering column bolts to locate it, then removed the clutch cylinder for more access. Then you drill 5 holes: 3 in the firewall and 2 in the cowl. Not much fun, but oh well. Now I can continue with the hydroboost installation tomorrow.
The F250 yoke is on the left and the F350 is on the right.
So then it was time for the next thing, which is the hydroboost swap. I got the master cylinder, brake booster, pedals and steering column pulled without too much trouble. Then it was the next thing: installing an aftermarket brace. You Ford haters will enjoy this: Apparently, it isn't uncommon for the firewall to crack at the clutch master cylinder on manual transmission trucks. It was so common that Ford had a service bulletin and a brace to install at that location. Of course Ford has long since discontinued this part, but the issue is still enough of a problem that a guy is making them himself under the company name Terrapin Manufacturing. It's a nicely made part. Installing it was a bit of a chore, but I eventually got it. I used the clutch cylinder and steering column bolts to locate it, then removed the clutch cylinder for more access. Then you drill 5 holes: 3 in the firewall and 2 in the cowl. Not much fun, but oh well. Now I can continue with the hydroboost installation tomorrow.
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
Before I get too far I'll post this info. You can see in the pics the difference in the brake pedals between the F350 with vacuum booster and the F Super Duty with hydro boost.
These measurements are taken from the bottom of the pivot tube.
The thing I didn't know was that the cruise control cancelling switch was activated off of a separate piece that clips on. The F Super Duty I got the pedals from didn't have cruise, so I'm going to have to source that part seperately. Hopefully one of the other trucks at the yard has the part I need.
These measurements are taken from the bottom of the pivot tube.
The thing I didn't know was that the cruise control cancelling switch was activated off of a separate piece that clips on. The F Super Duty I got the pedals from didn't have cruise, so I'm going to have to source that part seperately. Hopefully one of the other trucks at the yard has the part I need.
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
The day didn't go quite the way I expected, but it turned out fairly well overall.
First I went to the junkyard to see if I could find the piece for the cruise control cancel switch. I didn't have any luck with that, but I did find a piece of A-pillar trim that is cracked on my truck - so I snagged that. I also have a 94 F150 that is going to become a mainly offroad rig that needs a new core support. I found just one in the whole place that was acceptable, and lucky enough the grill and one fender were already removed, so it wasn't that far from coming out. I decided that it would be worth my time to go back home, grab the tools I needed and snag it before someone else does. So I leave, grab all the tools I think I might need and go back. Well as I was leaving before I noticed a nice core support leaning against the wall. I decided I might as well ask about it before I head out to the yard....so I ask, "I assume someone is coming back for that core support?". Much to my surprise the response was, "nope, they grabbed the wrong core support so that one is going out back.". What luck!!! That saved me a ton of time and it was in nicer shape than the one I was going to snag!!! So I didn't find the one little piece I went there for, but I came back with 2 pieces I wanted - that's a good day in my book!
No, it isn't perfect, but pretty good for Michigan.
So then I got back to the hydroboost install. I decided to just cut that piece and glue it back together. Not the slickest mod, but it's retained by both the pin and a clip around the pedal arm, so I don't think it's going anywhere.
Then I noticed that the pin for the clutch master cylinder was severely worn. So I swapped the arm between the 2 pedal sets.
From there it was mostly just putting pieces back where they belong. The only real snag was that I didn't have the new power steering pump in my parts stash. I could have sworn I had purchased it already, but I guess not. So I will be getting that tomorrow. Then the hydroboost will be done. After that I will be running a new hard line to the back and servicing the brakes in the Dana 80.
First I went to the junkyard to see if I could find the piece for the cruise control cancel switch. I didn't have any luck with that, but I did find a piece of A-pillar trim that is cracked on my truck - so I snagged that. I also have a 94 F150 that is going to become a mainly offroad rig that needs a new core support. I found just one in the whole place that was acceptable, and lucky enough the grill and one fender were already removed, so it wasn't that far from coming out. I decided that it would be worth my time to go back home, grab the tools I needed and snag it before someone else does. So I leave, grab all the tools I think I might need and go back. Well as I was leaving before I noticed a nice core support leaning against the wall. I decided I might as well ask about it before I head out to the yard....so I ask, "I assume someone is coming back for that core support?". Much to my surprise the response was, "nope, they grabbed the wrong core support so that one is going out back.". What luck!!! That saved me a ton of time and it was in nicer shape than the one I was going to snag!!! So I didn't find the one little piece I went there for, but I came back with 2 pieces I wanted - that's a good day in my book!
No, it isn't perfect, but pretty good for Michigan.
So then I got back to the hydroboost install. I decided to just cut that piece and glue it back together. Not the slickest mod, but it's retained by both the pin and a clip around the pedal arm, so I don't think it's going anywhere.
Then I noticed that the pin for the clutch master cylinder was severely worn. So I swapped the arm between the 2 pedal sets.
From there it was mostly just putting pieces back where they belong. The only real snag was that I didn't have the new power steering pump in my parts stash. I could have sworn I had purchased it already, but I guess not. So I will be getting that tomorrow. Then the hydroboost will be done. After that I will be running a new hard line to the back and servicing the brakes in the Dana 80.
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
Oh, one other thing: yesterday I posted in a Ford IDI group that I was doing the firewall brace and someone familiar with it suggested I seal the bits in the cowl so I don't get wet feet. I didn't get a pic, but I slathered a metric crap ton of clear silicone over that plate to keep water out. I was happy to get that tip now before I put the cowl cover back on.
tanman_2006
Just a farm kid...
I'm looking at getting one of these. Our old FFA truck was a 92 7.3 IDI F350 Crew Cab 2wd. It has came up for sale for 2400 with 180k on it. Runs great
n8in8or
I never met a project I didn’t like
I want to get a crew cab dually for heavy hauling and camping duties both for the extra wheelbase and the extra people carrying (and a little bit based on looks if I'm honest). I haven't decided GM or Ford yet - I like them both for different reasons.