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Yep, they do help in the cold. Nothing like feeling the hair on the back of your neck standing on end while watching that oil pressure gauge "lazily" coming up to pressure, -listening to every rattle and knock... I will tell you this though, -they eventually come apart and need replaced. I've...

No pressure, -just curious how those rods and rod bearings look. I'm not trying to worry you, just keep you from doing things twice, -or worst case having it come apart after going through all the work of putting it back together. :thumbsup:

Any updates? How do the sides of those rods look? Just curious..

10-4, -I don't want to worry ya, -it's just that if the rods need to come out to get re-sized (or worst-case replaced), -it would be better to find out now rather than later.... Just to confirm, -the picture named DSC00628.jpg is of the #1 main, -right? Have a great dinner man....:thumbsup:

Josh, man, it sure does look like you lucked out! It looks like the block lived, but you will probably need to take a stone to the #1 main bore to ensure there is no burr from the crank-rub before you put new bearings in there. I gotta say, -as smooth as that thing was running, I don't think...

Josh, my heart goes out to ya. I would definitely follow Missy's plan and give it a go without pulling the heads. You are going to want to do a real "intimate" inspection of the bottom end of that block to ensure she's not cracked. I would also pay real close attention to where the break is...

Oh Missy, I surely do kill the skeeters, -and piss off the eco-freak libtards across the street too, -kind of like a two-fer! :hihi: For all those that don't know, Robyn was a huge help during all of my 6.5 endeavors, she definitely knows a thing or two about the 6.2 and 6.5! :thumbsup: Tim...

Yep, I also know of someone who took a bang-load of material off a set of pistons and made a 15:1 engine. He ran 30+ pounds of boost with the Peninsular 300HP DB2 pump, -heck, he didn't even run a squirter-block, -and it lived, -all while outpulling his buddie's powerstroke and pulling over 11k...

I'm running the Mahle 18:1 marine pistons, and am decked .010" but running stock thickness gaskets (which should put it around 19:1-ish) The coldest I have ever had to start it was when it was 12F when traveling out of town and staying at a motel in Eastern Oregon. It was unplugged all night...

Yep, I could listen to guys like David talk all day long. My experience with gear driven cams is pretty limited. I ran a Pete Jackson on my 383 stroker build that went into one of my previous trucks, and I did notice a more stable distributor (watching the 0-degree mark on the damper with the...

In my opinion, you'll probably be ok. The real issue of concern could possibly be a slightly obstructed oil drainback from the turbo, -but I surely don't think one extra quart is going to cause that to happen. As far as puking oil goes, -that shouldn't be a concern either. My .02

There is only .032" difference in compression-height when going from 21:1 to 18:1 CR.

Sounds pretty typical. Usually the only thing running real good on a damn Ford is the driver's MOUTH....

True, -having little pieces of teflon in a hydraulic system surely isn't great, -but a little common sense applies (as one of the others pointed out holding the stuff short on the last several threads). And, while it is true that little threads of t-tape floating around in a hydraulic system...

-Or MINE ):h

Me too, in fact the stuff that is my favorite on NPT is the gas-rated yellow tape, I use that on practically everything (unless something else is spec'd). This is a bit embarrassing to admit, but one time I used a combination of teflon tape and red loctite to arrive at a particular flange to...

A product we use here at work on all our NPT swagelok fittings is a product called True Blue. It is made by Rectorseal and has teflon in it for thread lubrication, and it has excellent anti-seize characteristics on stainless. It dries semi-hard, and actually performs very well as a thread locker...

High side/low side pressures are strictly dependent on what the ambient temperature is. The higher the ambient temperature is, the higher the system pressures are going to be (both low and high sides), and the lower the ambient temp, the lower the pressures, -etc. There are cross-reference...

Actually, that's a good deal for the set of 8, -particularly since Mahle discontinued the low compression marine pistons. Too bad they are standard bore size.......

A lot of the Autometer gauges are in fact amplified. The needle movement is driven via a stepper motor, -hence the extra power lead on the backside of the gauge. Call them and get it sorted out, -their service is top notch. It sure sounds like you got a defective unit there....