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Could you pull the drain plug out of our factory style radiators with the plastic sides and put the anode there with a wire running to the block or battery ground? Would be nice if you could undo one of the big radiator hoses and just let the anode sit in there if it wouldn’t move around.

I can’t remember what brand I bought right now. I do remember that they happened to be the same brand as I took out when I replaced them. We are at the beach but I’ll find the box when we get home and post a picture of it and the paper that I wrote the temps on.

I tested the two 190* stats that I took out after the head gasket blew and the two new 180’s that I put in when I was putting it back together. All 4 of them took 7* to go from closed to fully open. I wrote the temps down and put them in the 180* t stat box. I’ll find them and post them. If I...

I have the line coming into the cab without a isolator. One of these days I’ll get a isolator for it. But for now I just check it every now and then for leaks.

I use a boost gauge from Advance Auto for my fuel pressure gauge. I like the boost guage for fuel pressure because it'll let you know if you ever go into a vacuum.

I hadn’t priced one in a while but a 30 lb. jug of 134a ain’t much. Last time I bought a 30 lb. jug it was a little over 100$. You don’t have to have a EPA card to buy it

I just got done doing this last November I think it was. I’m still slowly getting it back together. You’ll have to remove both plenums, turbo, exhaust manifold, IP lines to injectors, the heater core line coming from the tstat crossover, wiring harnesses in the valley, plug wire harness...

Alright everybody don’t kill me for saying this but Boston Motors Inc. is going to be your best bet for both valve covers. I looked everywhere for NEW valve covers last year and they were the only ones that wasn’t crazy priced. I was hesitant to buy from them because of all the bad reviews but...

You could connect the two metal lines together with 30r9 hose if you wanted to. Like Will said though, probably need to plan on changing the whole line out to be safe.

After I replaced the valve covers on my truck I couldn’t get it to run. It ran fine before. I had no fuel flowing through my IP when my wife tried cranking it with me watching the clear line on the IP. I got to looking everything over and realized that I didn’t plug the PMD extension harness...

Do you know what chassis it is? I’m assuming P32/42 Chassis.

If it’s still good I would use it.

Permatex- Ultra Black is what I have used a lot

might be worth doing the water pump while you are there if the engine has been sitting without antifreeze in it for a while. I let mine sit about 2 or 3 months dry and the water pump leaked after I filled it back up. That’s happened to me a couple times on different vehicles

i would go with the “original replacement” AC Delco if it was mine. Moog problem solver if they have it would be my next choice. Factory parts last longer than replacement parts a lot of times which is why I try to go back with factory parts unless there is a upgrade available.

You have to upload it to YouTube and then post the link here for us to see it

Do any of y’all know where to get a PTO kit for these transfer cases. I haven't called around but in the past I have looked across the internet and I can’t seem to find anything for these transfer cases.

Thanks. I’m going to get a couple on order

Where can I find this brass plug?

Remove the vacuum pump and replace the belt with a 99.5” belt if I remember right. Get rid of the vacuum hoses but leave the sensor that they attach to attached to the wiring harness. Then you have to buy a ”Turbo Master” or you can make your own pretty easily. There are some threads on here on...