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Oil Leak Over Starter

Big T

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Decided to post a new thread on this oil leak on my ‘99 K2500 Suburban. Oil leaking down onto the starter. Have ruled out the turbo oil drain to the block as the source. It’s definitely coming from above the starter and really from above the rear fuel injector. I suspect that this is pointing to valve cover. Hope not, as they are a PITA to deal with. I might as well order the injectors and replace those while I’m in there.
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Yup. Not much else to rule out except the CDR gasket into the valve cover.
If I’d been thinking, before installing them reman injectors into my truck, I would have got them tested and balanced, or else done it myself.
Injector tester is not all that much money. 🤷‍♂️
 
Yup. Not much else to rule out except the CDR gasket into the valve cover.
If I’d been thinking, before installing them reman injectors into my truck, I would have got them tested and balanced, or else done it myself.
Injector tester is not all that much money. 🤷‍♂️

Current injectors are Bosch Marine from Heath. I will just order the Bosch (India) injectors from Leroy Diesel. Not much I can do at this point.
 
I installed the reman injectors from Oriellies, I now think it would have been good to bench test them to make sure they are popping within specs.
If the time ever comes that I’ll be doing another tune on this truck, I will test and balance the injectors I now have and just run with those.
 
Drop that starter while you doing it and clean it really well with a pressure washer.
Then hit it with some electrical contract cleaner and let it dry.

Hope it didn’t soak into the brushes and windings. If it is in the windings- use a plastic bristle brush, tooth brush is good, and electrical contract cleaner. If the brushes are soaked try cleaning them with tooth brush but expect a shortened life.

At first signs of problem, send it back for rebuild at powermaster. Doing that before extra parts gets damaged is worth the hassle. Could be a $75 fix instead of entire thing ruined.

Clean the flexplate too, it’s most likely soaked and will re oil when it runs again.
Check the battery cable and again contact cleaner if needed.

Remember that black permetex? Same stuff for the valve covers. I never had it fail me once. Cork gaskets are for history books only. It was good tech in the 1920s, but now should never get near a rig.
 
Alright everybody don’t kill me for saying this but Boston Motors Inc. is going to be your best bet for both valve covers. I looked everywhere for NEW valve covers last year and they were the only ones that wasn’t crazy priced. I was hesitant to buy from them because of all the bad reviews but it worked out good. And I used Permatex Ultra Black on them when I installed them. Just let them sit like the directions say and you should be good to go.
 
There is a trick to removing valve covers , oil pan, etc. without ruining them. Use this style scraper and hit with hammer driving around the valve cover to separate from head. As you see the broken corners (this one has done probably 3 dozen covers) it will ruin the corners. Just cut it off and keep going. Seems 2” wide blade is beat for me.

Note the metal goes all the way through handle. This is critical.

You can get about 95% of it all, then the rest will pop off with tiny prybar (aka cheap screwdriver).
52D02B90-E4A0-4EFD-8F89-2727CE71A5AF.jpegEC2C0916-6B02-40DA-9FE9-80658FA087B2.jpeg
 
There is a trick to removing valve covers , oil pan, etc. without ruining them. Use this style scraper and hit with hammer driving around the valve cover to separate from head. As you see the broken corners (this one has done probably 3 dozen covers) it will ruin the corners. Just cut it off and keep going. Seems 2” wide blade is beat for me.

Note the metal goes all the way through handle. This is critical.

You can get about 95% of it all, then the rest will pop off with tiny prybar (aka cheap screwdriver).
View attachment 65332View attachment 65333
Known as "full tang" making it strong...
 
There is a trick to removing valve covers , oil pan, etc. without ruining them. Use this style scraper and hit with hammer driving around the valve cover to separate from head. As you see the broken corners (this one has done probably 3 dozen covers) it will ruin the corners. Just cut it off and keep going. Seems 2” wide blade is beat for me.

Note the metal goes all the way through handle. This is critical.

You can get about 95% of it all, then the rest will pop off with tiny prybar (aka cheap screwdriver).
View attachment 65332View attachment 65333
Grind away some of the handle from the end of that scraper. If the hammer peens the end of that steel shank, it will split the wood handle. That Mine friends is spoken frum duh voice of experience. 😳😵‍💫😩😹😹😹🤺💨
 
Full tang!! That’s what I was trying to remember.

The wood is two different pieces riveted to each side. It won’t split Marty.

As far as what has to come off to remove cover- that is why WW was saying ignore it. Total pain in the butt job.
Turbo and injector lines. I can’t remember what hang ons might be in the way. By time you get there, you will be able to see very easily if their is any missing bolts.
 
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