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Oil Leak Over Starter

Will L. said:
Full tang!! That’s what I was trying to remember.

The wood is two different pieces riveted to each side. It won’t split Marty.

As far as what has to come off to remove cover- that is why WW was saying ignore it. Total pain in the butt job.
Turbo and injector lines. I can’t remember what hang ons might be in the way. By time you get there, you will be able to see very easily if their is any missing bolts.
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It might not split if You use a plasticated hammer, but, if You use a ballpeen or any kind of hammer with a steel head, it will split them wood handles. I was told this by an old timer that had the same sxperience after I had already split the handles on a brand new snap on scraper. That was an expensive lesson that I will soon not forget.
 
MrMarty51 said:
It might not split if You use a plasticated hammer, but, if You use a ballpeen or any kind of hammer with a steel head, it will split them wood handles. I was told this by an old timer that had the same sxperience after I had already split the handles on a brand new snap on scraper. That was an expensive lesson that I will soon not forget.
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No, you missed it- the wood handle cant split- because it already is ‘split’ from the factory. It is two different pieces of wood.
I did this using the same one for years at a time. The front of the blade gets chipped and broken until the thing is no longer useable after about 100 engines. I use it to remove valve covers, pan, timing cover, basically everything in a tear down. Yes usually a ball peen hammer. I consider them a wear item like grinder disks. It’s like $1.50 tool, well probably $2.50 nowdays. But if you can find one in 99 cent store, get it instead. If you use it to remove one valve cover or one oil pan, it paid for itself.
 
Will L. said:
No, you missed it- the wood handle cant split- because it already is ‘split’ from the factory. It is two different pieces of wood.
I did this using the same one for years at a time. The front of the blade gets chipped and broken until the thing is no longer useable after about 100 engines. I use it to remove valve covers, pan, timing cover, basically everything in a tear down. Yes usually a ball peen hammer. I consider them a wear item like grinder disks. It’s like $1.50 tool, well probably $2.50 nowdays. But if you can find one in 99 cent store, get it instead. If you use it to remove one valve cover or one oil pan, it paid for itself.
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They have ones with plastic handles and a brass head to hammer on, but they are $8.27

4742B653-E59A-4D17-81A7-EB2FE9F39264.png
 
Big T said:
What will I have to remove to pull off the valve cover on the passenger side?

As for the exhaust, I counted bolts in every one of those lower holes.
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I just got done doing this last November I think it was. I’m still slowly getting it back together. You’ll have to remove both plenums, turbo, exhaust manifold, IP lines to injectors, the heater core line coming from the tstat crossover, wiring harnesses in the valley, plug wire harness,....... I removed my air boxing and inner fender to make it easier. It’s not a bad job for a truck that lives in the south. I don’t know how bad it would be for a truck that has to deal with salt every year.

The pictures of your exhaust manifold, it does look like there are extra holes on yours that I don’t see in the picture AK posted. You have one at the bottom close to the flange and one further up at the bottom of the manifold.
 
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