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Maybe.............I put a new booster on it so you think if the booster has air it would cause this problem?

Got the drive shaft in.....about $170 with new u-joints. Had trouble getting the brakes to bleed. The pedal always went to the floor, never really pumped any fluid out that I could tell, so I may have a bad master cylinder. Also after pushing the pedal down with the bleed port open, then...

I bet its the same one.... Carolina Driveline

Found a shop that will cut it and balance it for about $100 so I think I will go that route. Have a little problem with the RPM input for the USShift. I am using an early 90's style sensor that goes in the oil pump drive. In the settings I set custom, because all the other options had to do...

You let a project take 7-8 months, and as deejaa said mice or squirrels. I assume the muffler was pretty full..... it ran fine after it blew it out, but I may still have trouble when I get on the road............ may have to get a new muffler.................

Well.... long day 9:00 am to 9:00 pm.....but I got the intake 98% done (have to modify the lid) and the exhaust 99.9% done (lack one slip joint clamp....) So now the only big thing left is the drive shaft, but that will be for next week.... It fired up terrible after I put the exhaust on...

I have seen two ways of doing it. Cutting a section out of the middle; or grinding off the weld at the end, pulling the end yoke out, cutting to length, and welding the yoke back in. Any thoughts as to which way is better?

Also deciding if I am bold enough to cut and weld the driveshaft (needs to be shortened several inches) or if I will just try to find a shop that will do it.........

Got it fixed!!! was a scratch on the seat of the line. Was able to burnish it out and it sealed. Used a piece of sandpaper and an old injector, placed the paper over the seat in the injector and pushed the line into it while twisting. Would have used valve lapping compound, but could not find...

Yes that is my plan. I can see the one that is dripping so I don't thing it is the seal.

Would it be reasonable to install a Wicked Wheel, which according to the advertising info I read on it is supposed to reduce the force on the turbine wheel to drive the compressor. Then since less force is required you could take a grinder and open up the exhaust section a little bit (widen the...

Seems to run pretty smooth at idle after tightening the leaking injector line.......... bad news is it still has a slow drip so I will have to pull the intake and pull the line and see why it is not sealing. Another piece of good news is that I got the alternator and tach working. Also got...

Got a question about the alternator. My parts truck for the wiring and accessories was a 96 C1500. Will the replacement alternator be pretty standard or are there some details that I would need to check to make sure I get the right one?

Yep... installed that at first installation..... The air cleared up for the most part...one little bubble stayed. I am 98% sure that the thrust pin was in there, but it was too long ago that I installed the pump for me to be positive, so I will check. I expect it to really help when I get the...

hmmm.... does it fall out really easily? I remember reading about yours so I was kinda thinking about it so I think there was a spring there, but that was a number of months ago. I had to buy this IP as the engine did not have one with it and if the parts were missing, I would never have known...

I don't have one at the moment.........I am watching a couple local junk yards for another project I have and if I see a 6.5 come through, I could see about getting the wires.... Might be a few months.... my projects usually go really slow.... Keep an eye out in the junkyards around there too...

I'll try this way.... https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6eR8Xzrg2yrTFVqN2RhS2VQTDQ/view?usp=sharing

It smokes!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Got a ways to go before I get it on the road, but the engine runs! Have what I hope is just a loose injector line at the IP so there is a fuel leak and I think (hope) that is what causes the lope at idle. Just open exhaust manifolds at this point though so it is so...

Probably would not have to swap harnesses, but you would have to be satisfied with the tachometer not working........... The coolant temp and oil pressure sensors would probably be the same plug........if not you could probably keep your gas sensor. As you take the gas engine out carefully label...

I'll keep my eye out in the junk yards and let you know if I see a 6.5 with a good harness. Could you make a summary of what type of truck you are going from - to? Like year, 2 or 4 wheel drive....