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Tahoe 6.2 swap

Will do........ got a bit closer tonight. Got the fuel lines run all the way, and got fluids and a serp. belt at the parts store. It sure is hard to get much progress in these short evenings. Now that it is dark I am researching out some last little wiring details. (How I am going to wire the LP, and how the RPM sensor is supposed to be wired to the USShift trans controler.
 
It smokes!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Got a ways to go before I get it on the road, but the engine runs! Have what I hope is just a loose injector line at the IP so there is a fuel leak and I think (hope) that is what causes the lope at idle. Just open exhaust manifolds at this point though so it is so loud it is hard to tell what it sounds like. Going to try to post a video........ we'll see if I am smart enough to get it posted before I run out of energy...................

Rough to do list before it is on the road:
wire in a relay for the IP
make n8in8or's Y for the speedo
fix the fuel leak
the alternator does not work
piece together an exhaust system
piece together an intake system
route wires and oil cooler lines (heat protection)
grille and front bumper
shorten the drive shaft * can't forget about that one..........................(why won't it go??????????????)
 
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that sounds just like mine when i forgot to install the pin/spring on the front of the IP.
 
hmmm.... does it fall out really easily? I remember reading about yours so I was kinda thinking about it so I think there was a spring there, but that was a number of months ago. I had to buy this IP as the engine did not have one with it and if the parts were missing, I would never have known what it looked like, but I do remember seeing the plate that the spring rides on, and I think there was something on the front of the IP. Thanks for the heads up and I will double check.
 
the spring and pin are together and mine never separated. i had left them both out. it's a pain as the injector lines, three mounting bolts, three IP to gear bolts, and oil fill all need to be removed. try to wait for another answer. might be an easier solution.
 
thrust.jpg

@deejaaa is talking about the thrust pin and spring here. You can pull the oil fill and look for it easy enough. It rides just on the bottom of the oil fill area.

Ahem... Step #1 Clear return line on IP return and look for air... Fuel PSI at water drain...
 
WarWagon said:
Ahem... Step #1 Clear return line on IP return and look for air... Fuel PSI at water drain...
Click to expand...

Yep... installed that at first installation..... The air cleared up for the most part...one little bubble stayed. I am 98% sure that the thrust pin was in there, but it was too long ago that I installed the pump for me to be positive, so I will check. I expect it to really help when I get the fuel leak fixed.
 
Got a question about the alternator. My parts truck for the wiring and accessories was a 96 C1500. Will the replacement alternator be pretty standard or are there some details that I would need to check to make sure I get the right one?
 
Seems to run pretty smooth at idle after tightening the leaking injector line.......... bad news is it still has a slow drip so I will have to pull the intake and pull the line and see why it is not sealing.

Another piece of good news is that I got the alternator and tach working.

Also got the front bumper installed.
 
Hopefully just a loose line. But if you can't find it...

There is (on most models) a weep hole on the bottom of the pump near the drive end that is just like a waterpump weep hole. If leaking from there the front seal is bad and will start leaking fuel into the oil.

New assemblies the seal can be installed slightly wrong causing this also. Ask me how I learned to use the correct tool for cup seal install...
 
the problem with using the invisible sarcasm font here is some people dont get it, and others do- then since a out 30% of the guys here live off sarcasm like I do (@Husker6.5 ) a guy cant use generic phrases- haha.

Really :the cup seal is easy to have the lip flip backwards.
 
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