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Rebuilt GM6 with Wicked Wheel II

So that said, if someone already has an aftermarket exhaust, then there may be some benefit to this new wheel. Does that sound about right? If so, then it sounds like it might be a low cost bump for someone not ready to make the move to the ATT.

It's all part of a system to allow the engine to breathe. I's spare you the rant on GM's inability (even on fairly late model stuff) to design intake/exhaust systems and Dodge that dropped a huge "sewer pipe" on for a diesel exhaust. Dodge Cummins isn't perfect running #1 and #6 short of air from the intake, but, one less part to replace.

Regardless the GMx turbo generates extreme backpressure (drive pressure). So improving the intake and exhaust is all good, but, the GMx exhaust section itself is the biggest restriction. IMO the ATT turbo makes a difference with a factory exhaust and cat in place as I tried on the 1995. Not ideal, but, there was a difference.

The ATT is a big towing turbo with several other turbo's out there now depending on one's use and expectations. This is the entire point of this thread: a improvement to another turbo option over stock. As pointed out the exhaust side of the GMx is where major gains are to be had. Hot 1100 degree air has way more volume than 300 degree intake air so exhaust improvements have the biggest gains.

Getting the intake side to not choke and become a heater at 14PSI or general improvements is all good and may be their only choice. Again some platforms do not have the room for larger turbos. Maybe a kit to get a better 'sized right' turbo to fit HMMVW and van centermount would be a more productive use of research?
 
It's all part of a system to allow the engine to breathe. I's spare you the rant on GM's inability (even on fairly late model stuff) to design intake/exhaust systems and Dodge that dropped a huge "sewer pipe" on for a diesel exhaust. Dodge Cummins isn't perfect running #1 and #6 short of air from the intake, but, one less part to replace.

Regardless the GMx turbo generates extreme backpressure (drive pressure). So improving the intake and exhaust is all good, but, the GMx exhaust section itself is the biggest restriction. IMO the ATT turbo makes a difference with a factory exhaust and cat in place as I tried on the 1995. Not ideal, but, there was a difference.

The ATT is a big towing turbo with several other turbo's out there now depending on one's use and expectations. This is the entire point of this thread: a improvement to another turbo option over stock. As pointed out the exhaust side of the GMx is where major gains are to be had. Hot 1100 degree air has way more volume than 300 degree intake air so exhaust improvements have the biggest gains.

Getting the intake side to not choke and become a heater at 14PSI or general improvements is all good and may be their only choice. Again some platforms do not have the room for larger turbos. Maybe a kit to get a better 'sized right' turbo to fit HMMVW and van centermount would be a more productive use of research?

And about dissapating heat from the compressed air.
I have been thinking of welding aluminum strips onto the intake cover, between the manifold and the turbo. making the aluminum strips to act like a heat sink. think of fins on an air cooled motorcycle engine.
It might not be much, but every little bit helps, I think.
 
That can go both ways. Sometimes the intake air is cooler than the underhood air and you wind up heating the intake charge. An example when you are not under boost. Very little surface inside the intake to make a difference on temp.
 
That can go both ways. Sometimes the intake air is cooler than the underhood air and you wind up heating the intake charge. An example when you are not under boost. Very little surface inside the intake to make a difference on temp.
Well, that makes sense. LOL guess I`ll bag that idea. LOL
 
Thats why so many new engines use plastic. The underhood heat soaks into the manifold.

Staying with an aluminum one, yes if you could ensure underhood temps are lower than intake temp, more strips of thin aluminum, or better yet- copper would dissipate heat. Using the thermal coatings would do more. But now everytime you work on it you have a porcupine to work on.

Imo cooling the air is money much better spent. Thats why wmi has such success, along with the near perfect system of a cac.
 
Would it be reasonable to install a Wicked Wheel, which according to the advertising info I read on it is supposed to reduce the force on the turbine wheel to drive the compressor. Then since less force is required you could take a grinder and open up the exhaust section a little bit (widen the slot where the exhaust gas flows onto the turbine). Doing this would weaken the turbine but............if less power is needed to produce the same boost maybe it would be a good middle of the road compromise? Am I crazy? I have a spare turbo sitting around, the core is shot but the exhaust housing section is fine so I am really tempted to take a grinder to it.
 
Would it be reasonable to install a Wicked Wheel, which according to the advertising info I read on it is supposed to reduce the force on the turbine wheel to drive the compressor. Then since less force is required you could take a grinder and open up the exhaust section a little bit (widen the slot where the exhaust gas flows onto the turbine). Doing this would weaken the turbine but............if less power is needed to produce the same boost maybe it would be a good middle of the road compromise? Am I crazy? I have a spare turbo sitting around, the core is shot but the exhaust housing section is fine so I am really tempted to take a grinder to it.
If You do, please post in the outcome.
 
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