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Tahoe 6.2 swap

Got it fixed!!! was a scratch on the seat of the line. Was able to burnish it out and it sealed. Used a piece of sandpaper and an old injector, placed the paper over the seat in the injector and pushed the line into it while twisting. Would have used valve lapping compound, but could not find it. Cleaned the line out really well (did not figure the injector would like sandpaper for lunch) and let it run for a while with no drips.

Could not find a 6.2 air filter housing so I am modifying a gasser housing to fit. Got an adapter plate welded up, then will cut out the center of the old filter housing and weld the adapter plate in. The center hole on the housing is about 1/2 in larger for the 6.2. I will trim the adapter flange into a circle of course.... its dark outside and my camera does not like the low light but it should give you the idea of what it will look like.

I plan to get a turbo on this eventually, but I have gone way over budget so I am going to wait on the turbo and exhaust system and just make do with what I have for now. The tahoe originally had a dual exhaust so I think it should not be too restrictive (have to modify it a bit as well.... cut out the cats, etc)

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Also deciding if I am bold enough to cut and weld the driveshaft (needs to be shortened several inches) or if I will just try to find a shop that will do it.........
 
If your welding skills are pretty decent then I would go for it. Lay a piece of angle iron down (needs to be about as long as the drive shaft)with the V up. Lay the drive shaft in it. Lay another piece of angle iron with the V down on top of the drive shaft. Weld it up.
 
I have seen two ways of doing it. Cutting a section out of the middle; or grinding off the weld at the end, pulling the end yoke out, cutting to length, and welding the yoke back in. Any thoughts as to which way is better?
 
Always, always, ALWAYS cut the end off to shorten the shaft and then reweld it back onto the yoke! It is MUCH easier to keep everything properly aligned and straight this way with the yoke slipping inside of the tube and keeping the two yokes at 90° to each other, as well as getting MUCH better weld penetration and if your welding skills are decent enough, much closer to balanced right off the bat. If you do do the shaft yourself, definitely take the finished shaft to a reputable shop to have the driveshaft balanced!
 
Jaryd said:
I would weld the yoke
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X-3
Depending on how much needs to be removed, it will not be so hard to get the one end to be almost perfectly flat, so there would be no wobble.
As mentioned, be sure to mark the yoke and the shaft so that the yoke will go back in the same position as what it came off.
 
Well.... long day 9:00 am to 9:00 pm.....but I got the intake 98% done (have to modify the lid) and the exhaust 99.9% done (lack one slip joint clamp....) So now the only big thing left is the drive shaft, but that will be for next week....

It fired up terrible after I put the exhaust on, stumbling along at a really low idle, I revved it up to 2500 and it really hesitated, then cleared up. I walked around back and found a three foot line on leaves and junk that it blew out the muffler.
 
1994ch said:
Well.... long day 9:00 am to 9:00 pm.....but I got the intake 98% done (have to modify the lid) and the exhaust 99.9% done (lack one slip joint clamp....) So now the only big thing left is the drive shaft, but that will be for next week....

It fired up terrible after I put the exhaust on, stumbling along at a really low idle, I revved it up to 2500 and it really hesitated, then cleared up. I walked around back and found a three foot line on leaves and junk that it blew out the muffler.
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After You got the obstructions blowed out the tail pipe, did it continue running good ?
I hope they did not pack Your muffler full, if it has a muffler.
 
Will L. said:
Ok...how do you get leaves in the exhaust?
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You let a project take 7-8 months, and as deejaa said mice or squirrels.


MrMarty51 said:
I hope they did not pack Your muffler full, if it has a muffler.
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I assume the muffler was pretty full..... it ran fine after it blew it out, but I may still have trouble when I get on the road............ may have to get a new muffler.................
 
I would definitely pay to have it balanced. Being a little bit out may not be enough to feel it shake the whole truck, but can still be out enough to shorten unoint life, and differential seal, trans/xfer case seals, and added vibration is never a good thing for anything.

I've been thinking about welding the tube of the driveshaft in the middle. I have never seen it done, and it would be slightly weaker in theory. But I can't say it would be a game changer. I would still do it at the yoke just to be safe.
 
If it would have been my daily driver I would have gotten it balanced. It was a 72 blazer that was a street legal mud and trail play toy. Man I wish I wouldn't have gotten rid of that thing. Chevy only made the blazer with the top that come off to the windshield (like a jeep) for 2 years. 71 and 72. Now when I see them at Barrett Jackson auctions they are worth good money once fixed up. Mine had 1 ton axles, 4 speed granny, and np205 t-case with pto running a 12,000lb hydraulic winch on the front bumper and sitting on 44" super swamped bloggers. Painted camouflage by me. It was a beast. Man I miss that thing.
 
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Found a shop that will cut it and balance it for about $100 so I think I will go that route.

Have a little problem with the RPM input for the USShift. I am using an early 90's style sensor that goes in the oil pump drive. In the settings I set custom, because all the other options had to do with ignition type sensors. But I got 0 rpm indication on the unit.
 
There is a good driveshaft Shop in Spartanburg but I can’t remember the name of it right now. It’s right down the road from the traffic circle
 
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