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How do you all get 6.2s to 300K miles

Start with the glow plugs. when was the last time you replaced them? what GP's did you use then? the best are the AC Delco 60g's they are self regulating so they won't swell up and break off destroying the engine.

think if the GP's and injectors like spark plugs on a gasser. they need to be replaced at least every 100k. injectors can be rebuilt, but it's getting harder and harder to find legit genuine quality Bosch injectors.
 
dbrannon79 said:
Start with the glow plugs. when was the last time you replaced them? what GP's did you use then? the best are the AC Delco 60g's they are self regulating so they won't swell up and break off destroying the engine.

think if the GP's and injectors like spark plugs on a gasser. they need to be replaced at least every 100k. injectors can be rebuilt, but it's getting harder and harder to find legit genuine quality Bosch injectors.
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20240629_112414.jpgwell sir as you can see, the previous owner did the glow plugs back in 2023, says the relay and glow plugs themselves were done.
 
looking at your video, I think you have one or maybe two cylinders that isn't warming up as well on the GP's could be a loose connection or a GP is failing. it doesn't hurt to pull the, mark which cylinder each are from, and bench test them with a set of jumper cables. count in seconds the time each one takes to glow red hot. also inspect the tips for erosion. the amount of erosion and color of the GP tips can tell a person how the engine is doing. same for reading a spark plug on a gasser.
 
Your receipt says only 6 glowplugs . Most likely the hardest to get to weren't done. If you have an infrared heat gun you could shoot the exhaust manifold right where it comes out of the head when you start it and see which cylinder/s aren't warming up as fast. It would be a 2 man job and probably take several cold starts to narrow it down.
 
Cold engine use the IR gun aimed very near the glow plug. Write down the temps. Cycle the glow plugs, but, DO NOT START the engine. Quickly check the same areas again. Any that haven't heated up some are likely trouble spots for the glow plugs.

Start on the turbo side as these are the hard ones... to even see.
 
nycxjeremyy said:
Super off topic, but i was told.to replace oil cooler lines, what type do you all recommend? Not sure if mine were done or not, I can take photos tomorrow of them, if someone could point to me where on the motor they would exactly be
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If Your engine has them they will come off of where the oil filter screws to the block and make a run to the front of the truck on the drivers side.
Possibly plugging into the radiator or maybe an oil cooler placed ahead of the radiator.
 
The two hoses that come out of the engine by the oil filter as described -
There are replacements that are factory you can buy but many have not had good runs with these aftermarket hoses.

My recommendation is to take multiple pictures of them in place so you can reinstall them later properly. Then take the hoses out and down to a hydraulic shop. Have them make new hoses but instead of using the regular automotive hose material, have them use the hose that is for hydraulic systems like a backhoe uses.
Those hoses last several decades without any issues. This becomes a buy once, cry once solution. You will spend triple the money, but will never have a failure.

Many do the automotive steel braided hoses. While I see that as an upgrade over stock- it still can have a failure.
The hose for heavy equipment is not going to fail.
This is what was done in hmmwvs with the 6.2/6.5 engines and there is not a single reported case of a failed oil hose that i’ve seen yet but so so many failed factory hoses and a there is some who had the automotive style braided hoses fail.
 
Those are aluminum lines that have 45deg flare fittings. shouldn't need to worry about that end. what do they look like on the other end up by the radiator?

on the newer rigs, GM used a type of quick connect that are known to blow out or leak at the engine block. on the radiator side, the rubber hose that is crimped to these aluminum lines tend to deteriorate and start leaking. mine started leaking where they were crimped. I simply replaced the rubber hose with some oil cooler hose and worm gear clamps. (poor mans repair)

what is the best you say.... get the oil cooler line set from Leroy Diesel along with his oil cooler and be done with it. as they say, buy once and cry once.
 
dbrannon79 said:
Those are aluminum lines that have 45deg flare fittings. shouldn't need to worry about that end. what do they look like on the other end up by the radiator?

on the newer rigs, GM used a type of quick connect that are known to blow out or leak at the engine block. on the radiator side, the rubber hose that is crimped to these aluminum lines tend to deteriorate and start leaking. mine started leaking where they were crimped. I simply replaced the rubber hose with some oil cooler hose and worm gear clamps. (poor mans repair)

what is the best you say.... get the oil cooler line set from Leroy Diesel along with his oil cooler and be done with it. as they say, buy once and cry once.
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20250420_125807.jpg20250420_125815.jpgthis is the top/end where it goes into the radiator
 
You sure what you have your hand on isn't the power steering lines? the oil cooler lines should run along side the block where the pan meets the block up to the front where the harmonic balancer is then transition to rubber under the fan shroud to the oil cooler that sits in front of the radiator. you shouldn't be able to access them from under the hood.
 
nycxjeremyy said:
So this is what I have after checking under

photos.app.goo.gl

5 new items by Jeremy

photos.app.goo.gl photos.app.goo.gl
View attachment 93657
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Yup, a little difficult to remove but not terrible bad.
If itiz four weeeeel drive might be a tad more difficult.
Leroy Diesel also sells the braided hose kits.
IDK if those are as good as the home made hydraulic
dbrannon79 said:
You sure what you have your hand on isn't the power steering lines? the oil cooler lines should run along side the block where the pan meets the block up to the front where the harmonic balancer is then transition to rubber under the fan shroud to the oil cooler that sits in front of the radiator. you shouldn't be able to access them from under the hood.
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The 1993 GMC K1500 I had, with the 350 V8, oil cooler hoses run alongside the engine block then up and were screwed into the radiator.
Kind of like where these lines screw to the block.
But yeah, get under the truck and double check that the oil cooler lines/hoses are actually run along side the block and not up and over.
 
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