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My 2005 Yukon XL

On your cooling fans, you can bypass the ECM on them without any ill effects or even add an extra controller keeping the ECM in the loop. I have this controller on my 95 controlling the electro-viscous fan clutch, but it's made for electric cooling fans. it's design is for dual fans and includes an override for the AC.

This one uses a sensor with 1/8" pipe thread. Haden also offers the same controller with a "stick in" sensor that you push into the fins of the radiator if you don't want to drill and tap into a coolant passage on the engine.

Thanks for sharing this. Might be a low cost option. I've been looking at canned tuners, because I really don't want a full blown tune. Currently the controller works of a set of relays for that ground the trigger wires. One ground and the fans are on low. Ground the second one simultaneously and both fans come on high.

Not sure why this post is automatically putting in the below comment. Doesn't even show up on my post editing page.
 
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Thanks for sharing this. Might be a low cost option. I've been looking at canned tuners, because I really don't want a full blown tune. Currently the controller works of a set of relays for that ground the trigger wires. One ground and the fans are on low. Ground the second one simultaneously and both fans come on high.

Not sure why this post is automatically putting in the below comment. Doesn't even show up on my post editing page.
Does that whenever an amazon product is linked to this site.
IDK if it does that to other forum sites.
 
I also found the reason for my growl in 4wd. The drivers side front differential output to cv shaft bearing is roasted. The spindle is very loose going into the pumpkin. Anyone ever replaced these bearings? I assume it's from inside only?

Most cost effective i assume is a complete swap out for used replacement.
 
Iirc those all aluminum differentials have to be torn completely apart to get to the bearings. If it’s the output going to a CV shaft it does turn when the wheel turns and can grenade on you even without the 4wd on. I would pull it and send to a shop to go through it to replace all the bearings. Hopefully the housing has not sustained damage yet. Otherwise start looking for a replacement front diff.


In a pinch and you need to drive it, you can pull the front diff and cv shafts from the front and drive it like that. But that also depends on the type of front hubs you have. They might need the splined shaft and nut to hold the bearings together. For that you would need to run a large 1-1/4” or larger bolt with some flat washers through the spindle and torque them down just to hold the bearing in the hub like the CV shaft would. Do that while you wait to locate a replacement diff. Oh yeah. Remove the drive shaft from the transfer case and torque the u-joint clamps back into the yolk so no debris get into the bolt holes.
 
Spent some time tonight getting the drivers hub bearing replaced. Had to order a dust shield. Apparently the P.O. didn't feel it necessary to reinstall.
20250314_085513.jpg
Ran into a time crunch and got it installed and all fluid filmed without a single picture. Greased all front end components. Also verified the CV axle does spin a bit when the vehicle is in motion. I am on the hunt for a GU6 RPO code front differential.
 
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