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My 2005 Yukon XL

dbrannon79 said:
On your cooling fans, you can bypass the ECM on them without any ill effects or even add an extra controller keeping the ECM in the loop. I have this controller on my 95 controlling the electro-viscous fan clutch, but it's made for electric cooling fans. it's design is for dual fans and includes an override for the AC.

This one uses a sensor with 1/8" pipe thread. Haden also offers the same controller with a "stick in" sensor that you push into the fins of the radiator if you don't want to drill and tap into a coolant passage on the engine.

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Thanks for sharing this. Might be a low cost option. I've been looking at canned tuners, because I really don't want a full blown tune. Currently the controller works of a set of relays for that ground the trigger wires. One ground and the fans are on low. Ground the second one simultaneously and both fans come on high.

Not sure why this post is automatically putting in the below comment. Doesn't even show up on my post editing page.
 
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DieselSlug said:
Thanks for sharing this. Might be a low cost option. I've been looking at canned tuners, because I really don't want a full blown tune. Currently the controller works of a set of relays for that ground the trigger wires. One ground and the fans are on low. Ground the second one simultaneously and both fans come on high.

Not sure why this post is automatically putting in the below comment. Doesn't even show up on my post editing page.
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Does that whenever an amazon product is linked to this site.
IDK if it does that to other forum sites.
 
Got the steering box swapped out today. Should have been a cake job but the pitman arm fought me. So hard to get a socket on it with the lower large grossmember and a-arm bracketry right in the perpendicular path. Ended up removing the box from the frame, then pulled the pitman arm.
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I also found the reason for my growl in 4wd. The drivers side front differential output to cv shaft bearing is roasted. The spindle is very loose going into the pumpkin. Anyone ever replaced these bearings? I assume it's from inside only?

Most cost effective i assume is a complete swap out for used replacement.
 
Iirc those all aluminum differentials have to be torn completely apart to get to the bearings. If it’s the output going to a CV shaft it does turn when the wheel turns and can grenade on you even without the 4wd on. I would pull it and send to a shop to go through it to replace all the bearings. Hopefully the housing has not sustained damage yet. Otherwise start looking for a replacement front diff.


In a pinch and you need to drive it, you can pull the front diff and cv shafts from the front and drive it like that. But that also depends on the type of front hubs you have. They might need the splined shaft and nut to hold the bearings together. For that you would need to run a large 1-1/4” or larger bolt with some flat washers through the spindle and torque them down just to hold the bearing in the hub like the CV shaft would. Do that while you wait to locate a replacement diff. Oh yeah. Remove the drive shaft from the transfer case and torque the u-joint clamps back into the yolk so no debris get into the bolt holes.
 
Spent some time tonight getting the drivers hub bearing replaced. Had to order a dust shield. Apparently the P.O. didn't feel it necessary to reinstall.
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Ran into a time crunch and got it installed and all fluid filmed without a single picture. Greased all front end components. Also verified the CV axle does spin a bit when the vehicle is in motion. I am on the hunt for a GU6 RPO code front differential.
 
Been scouring locally for a replacement front differential. It's proved to be difficult finding one with 3.42 gears. Might end up going the down and dirty route at the local u-pull.

Closest have found is 2 hrs, one I like better yet is 2.5 hrs.
 
DieselSlug said:
Got the steering box swapped out today. Should have been a cake job but the pitman arm fought me. So hard to get a socket on it with the lower large grossmember and a-arm bracketry right in the perpendicular path. Ended up removing the box from the frame, then pulled the pitman arm.
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Which gear box did you go with? Anything special or just auto parts whatever?
 
BigDogYJ said:
Which gear box did you go with? Anything special or just auto parts whatever?
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I shopped around a lot. Looked at all local box stores. Looked into supposed red tops, that are now not as highly rates but cost a fortune. Also looked into blue tops.

In the end I went with Lares from Rock Auto purely for the lifetime parts warranty. So far no regrets, but we are still early in the honeymoon stage. I've still got to ship back the core.
dbrannon79 said:
@DieselSlug is there an LKQ in your area? if they show one in their system, they will ship to your local store or can ship to you. they also provide warranty too
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I believe the closest is Buffalo, but I will look into.
 
dbrannon79 said:
@DieselSlug is there an LKQ in your area? if they show one in their system, they will ship to your local store or can ship to you. they also provide warranty too
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Went digging for this place. Closest one is buffalo at about 3 hours. They dont have a 3.42 set, but the location in NJ and RI do. Prices range from $200 to $600 depending on mileage. Trying to see what shipping would be, guessing another $100.

One thing I noticed is that their alternate fitment description is only 05-07C trucks. I thought any 99-07C non AWD, 3.42 would work.
 
That’s an odd one.
My brother swapped a front diff on an 04 Tahoe and his donor came from an 05 Silverado. So I think you should be fine with at least 03-07c. I’d the electrical is different than you might be able to just swap the actuator from yours to the donor if it’s in deed different in the 99-02 models.

05 seems like an odd year for a break like that. I could see 03-07c being different than 99-02.
 
dbrannon79 said:
the diff might be the same but possibly the connectors for the electronics could be different
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BigDogYJ said:
That’s an odd one.
My brother swapped a front diff on an 04 Tahoe and his donor came from an 05 Silverado. So I think you should be fine with at least 03-07c. I’d the electrical is different than you might be able to just swap the actuator from yours to the donor if it’s in deed different in the 99-02 models.

05 seems like an odd year for a break like that. I could see 03-07c being different than 99-02.
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I went on RockAuto and compared a 2002 Silverado 4wd actuator to my 2005 Yukon XL 4wd actuator and they are both denoted as "square" plug with the same GM part #.

That was my feeling on the carriers, they have to all be the same im sure with different casting numbers. The LKQ website was what really brought this to my attention. eBay ads also show 99-06 for fitment in the general item title, however the cpatability tables only go back to 05 from 07C. My thought is that the ccompatability is so extensive that the charts all stop at 05 (to metaphorically save the electronic tree)?

I also topped off the current carrier unit with gear oil from the shelf thinking that seepage has drained the case. It only took maybe 1/4 of the bottle so I don't think thats the case. I last topped this off just over 1 year ago.
 
search up some youtube on what it takes to dismantle one of these units. maybe they are not so bad. worst case is once you get the unit apart you just need to have a bearing or two pressed out and back in.

the only thing you'll need if you decide to pull it and want to continue driving it while it's out is get you a couple of junk CV shafts and pull the hub ends off the shaft and bolt them into your spindles so the hubs don't fall apart on you.
 
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