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Tune, resistors and tcc

If you have a couple of wobble extensions that might work without having a swivel. Mine were extremely tight when I had to do my flexplate. One thing I’ve always done when I don’t have a long ratchet or breaker bar is use the closed end of a wrench on the end of a ratchet. Just be forewarned. Slip and kiss your knuckles!!

be sure to put a smaller jack with a block of wood under the oil pan to hold the engine from tilting when you start pulling the tranny away from the block. Once the bolts come out from the bell housing leave the bottom two threaded in and use a pry bar to separate. There are two sleeves that align the block and tranny that usually rust up and can be a PIA at first. You might even need to loosen or remove the top half of the fan shroud so you can tilt the engine back to help long things up when you go back in with the new tranny. Once the tranny is loose from the engine use the small jack on the oil pan to tilt the engine.

going back in you won’t be able push the bell housing flush to the engine without threading a bolt in on each side and slowly turning each one in little at a time while jiggling the tranny.

if you have a buddy that’ll come help wrestle it out and back in is always a plus!
 
Just out of curiosity with the transmission out shouldn't I be able to get a picture of the numbers on the back of the engine the ones that tell you what engine it is so you know if it's a good one or a bad one
 
Might be such a thing that You can get a box end wrench on the most upper bell housing bolts, then double it up with another box end wrench for leverage. I’m not real certain though.
 
@Stoney Yeah, if you don't have a universal swivel, those wobble sockets (especially the impact type) will do the same thing - get your ratchet/breaker bar down lower where you can some swinging room. Yeah, not having air and an impact sucks for breaking loose those bell housing bolts, especially the uppers.

You mentioned beer, @Will L. mentioned a torque converter retainer, here's a hack that WILL work (no offense, @Will L.). Take a Tall Boy can and crush it flat. Bend it slightly lengthwise so it has a slight "V" in the length of it so it has some rigidity. Put another bend in one end (like the pull tab top) and punch a hole the diameter of the dust cover bolt from the backside of the top through the pull tab hole. Make sure the pull tab is gone. Now, use a dust cover bolt and a washer to bolt the can to the bell housing with the other end of the can pressed up against the torque converter BETWEEN the mounting lugs.

PRESTO! You now have a home-made torque converter retainer that is strong enough to keep the tc from accidentally sliding forward during installation and thin enough to be pulled out after the tranny is up in place and a couple of bolts threaded part way in to keep everything in place. A shade tree mechanic tip when you gotta make do with what you have on hand, not $70K worth of hand tools in a State-of-the-Art fully equipped shop!

HINT: When pulling the old transmission, make certain that both locating dowels are still in the block (one or both may have pulled out and are stuck in the bell housing locating holes) make sure they are seated (bottomed out) in the block before installing the new tranny. ALSO: a little light schmear of grease on the rounded end and around the dowel shaft makes sliding the tranny in and up against the block SO much easier - another Shade Tree Hack!
 
Oh you got jokes??? Lol...DAMN YOU BRIGGS!!!.
OK UPDATE::: OLD TRANNY IS OUT and on the ground...side note if anyone see a gmc engineer, tell him to come see me.👿😇. I promise I'll play nice😉.
Now I'm trying to get new tranny under truck then up on the tranny jack..(not easy).. so my question is..how tight do the bellhousing bolts and torque converter bolts have to be...I don't own a torque wrench.
 
without a torque wrench it's kinda like using your own judgment. use some blue locktite on the flexplate to crank bolts if you pulled it to do the rear main seal also make sure its facing the correct way, and the flexplate to converter bolts get blue locktite too so they won't back out. bell housing bolts get antiseize. they all do need to be tight, I would brace the flexplate so you wont be turning the engine over any and use a wrench and a backup wrench for leverage to gett'em good n tight just not so much they break off lol a wrench and couple of smacks with a hammer to jar them a tad tighter is a somewhat good measure.

of corse all that I said there was just shade tree talk. I'll try looking up the torque specs after work unless someone else beats me to it.

BTW unless you already disconnected the battery, pull the PMD connector and fuel solenoid connector so the engine wont try firing while under there turning the motor! I'm sure you already did something so it wont try to start though.
 
Something else... before lifting up and bolting up the bellhousing bolts. be sure the sinch up the wireharness thats hanging back behind the motor. this way you don't need to worry about pinching a wire or two between the block and tranny! trust me Ive dont that before and it's not fun figuring out why it wont start or blows fuses lol
 
A piece of a chain and a couple of bolts and nuts will keep the flex plate from turning whilst tightening the bolts. Hang the chain to a bolt and nut to the bell housing and a bolt and nut to the chain to the flex plate.
It is a mighty rough thing trying to explain to someone how tight a bolt should be without using a torque wrench.
They are not near as tight as they are when You tried to remove them. If You get them that tight, something gonna break. Only reason tjey were that tight is that they seize in.
 
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