At least good options for future swap if needed.
Do you have an old glowplug, or did you chuck em? I lost my complete compression tester set to sticky fingers. Needed one for a 6.5, and had a gauge and valve assembly from days back. So I got an old glowplug, cut of heating element and electrical connector. Then drilled the center out. Welded on a fitting to the back side and good to go.
As for exact rings, I’ve done a bunch of old engines that parts weren’t available for. Just matchem up like you would a seal. If it were a fast reving, high performance thing is nmight make a difference. But engines that run at constant speed modt of the time tend to have a lot of room for error.
Same for valves.
Head gasket material is available in sheet form.
Chucked the old plugs but do have 1 extra new one (cheaper to order a set of 4 than just the 3 due to customs).
The parts are still available, just not readily available and cheap.
Did it even hit or knock on either? Video of it spinning over?
Suggestions: Varnish instead of fuel in the IP, Injectors all stuck open pissing fuel along with, burnt or debris in valves, cracked and burnt through pistons, blown head gasket, bent rods from rain water getting in the exhaust. Maybe fed gasoline till the rings washed out. Could the pushrods or valves be sticking with bent pushrods?
Again just suggesting "fix only what broke" and as cheaply as possible. None of the "while we are there" that leads to a rebuild. Forget a full rebuild. Just getting it to frugally burn fuel and run for a few years: Gaskets (gasket in a tube where you can get away with it), rings, and NOTHING ELSE. As long as they aren't cracked the pistons could look like craters on the moon. I have seen these run with just that type of piston damage. It ran over a year then we moved on before it quit - if it ever did. (If that unit came from Colorado it may be the same one.)
Repower may be the cheapest, but, running off the hydraulic pump of the M18 or pickup engine is going to chug fuel like crazy. The TMD20 itself, as is, is worth enough to help fund the repower.
Welder smokes some white at normal cranking speed and would smoke considerably more when the starter was oversped using 24v. Using the ether at normal just made extra smoke and at 24 volts would almost get it to run off the ether, but not quite.
Cheap reliability for the welder is what matters there. Rebuild components I'm talking about are pistons, rings, bearings, head gasket.
As far as why it's that way, fuel in it smelled alot like old gasoline. No visible coolant in the radiator either.
Either replacing its engine or running it off of PTO systems is going to be cheaper. Seen a few similar sized diesel engines pop up for $750 or less locally in running condition. Fuel efficiency of the NHC250 in the wrecker at idle is about 2-3 gallons per hour which is where it runs to operate the crane or either winch. Wrecker also has 1 more available PTO output that's not being used (4 PTO outputs. 2 trans and 2 tcase). Either way the flatbed is current priority.
Today was mostly cutting stuff. Have 2 storage boxes that will be bolted to the underside of the bed in front of the axle. A 36x22x14" box and a 36x18x18 box. The first box will extend to the outside edge of the bed (maybe even past a little), while the 18x18 box is the same vertical height as the bottom of the cab. Seem pretty solid which is good since they are likely to get hit when offroad haha. These boxes will be for the bottle jack, fluids, probably some basic tools, and general stuff.
The second pair of boxes are going to be built into the body of the bed, over the duallies and will open downwards. Picture a hinge attached to the bed subframe and the outside edge drops down about 5-6 inches. These are 16" wide, and the angle iron for the bed is 5" tall so the box is 16x24x5". Have a bunch of ammo cans sitting here that are just about a perfect fit. Plan is jumper cables on 1 side and air hose/components on the other side.
Cut out the 3/8" plate to make the new mounts for the front of the bed. These are 24x6" and will run flush with the top edge of the bed winch mount all the way down to the bottom edge of the truck chassis. Tying the chassis, sub frame, and winch mount all together. Also planning to add another reinforcement running from the winch mount to the second bed crossmember.
