1982 k30, sticking around

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Let me look around. I used to have a PTO unit looked like that, if the shifting lever is there, I`ll send it to You.

sweet thank you

 

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Shredded another sidewall a few days ago on the rear axle. Nice thing about a dually, rolls with 2 spares at all times haha. Replaced the tire on friday. And mounted up a better rear bumper. Just a piece of the 5x3" angle iron across the rear of the bed so nothing special but it is solid and doesn't make the truck any longer than it was with the factory bumper. Next is the better tail lights, going to stick with the oval lights that I had cut into the stock rear bumper. Just cut the holes into the back end of the rear boxes and put them there (above the angle iron). That will have them recessed just a little bit, making them better protected.

 

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Couple things done to the truck bed lately. rigged up a fuel filler neck and will eventually get it cut down flush with the end of the box. With its location the options were to either go through the box, or cut through one of the beds main crossmembers. Due to the 9ft length of the bed the stock rear bumper could no longer be mounted properly so finally got rid of it. The total length is actually just about the same as where the stock bumper ended. Attached a piece of 3x5x5/16" angle iron to serve as the basis of the rear bumper. Removed the tailgate since it can't be there with the tail roller plans. Also mounted the lower reverse lights, and am planning to mount the same oval style brake/marker lights next to them on the outside edge.

Initially after the bed swap I had wired in the round tail lights just so the truck would have working ones until the oval ones get setup. Since then it's lost turn signals, then lost markers/gauge lights and brake lights tonight.

 

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Hmm, to fix and flip it, or make it into the dedicated offroad truck and focus the crew cab towards a tow rig? Diesel k5 cucv m1009

 

[Will L.]

Keep em both! The k5 is awesome off road. Good full cage and you can rip the top off in nice weather. Make the quick removable doors. And you won’t tear up the work truck off-roading. It is so hard on big angles with the 4 door, as you already experienced.
Plus- they match! Get rich and fancy one day and paint them to match. Yeah- I am that guy.

 

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Keep em both! The k5 is awesome off road. Good full cage and you can rip the top off in nice weather. Make the quick removable doors. And you won’t tear up the work truck off-roading. It is so hard on big angles with the 4 door, as you already experienced.
Plus- they match! Get rich and fancy one day and paint them to match. Yeah- I am that guy.

That is a possibility. After selling the wrecker, putting some cash away, paying for the 4L80E and the k5 I've got about a $1600 excess budget to play with at the moment. The k5 needs the steering column put back together and tires, maybe a little more electrical work to get it running/driving again. Other issues are the driver seat is torn up, 3 rust holes at the back (1 through tailgate, other 2 are in the rear fenderwells) and that's about it.

To fix/flip it could sell for between 4-6k. Which is more than enough to fund the crew cab projects and get the gooseneck trailer built.

If I keep it. Cheap build initially with locker in the rear, larger tires, remove the top (go to a bimini top), and tube doors. Few inches of lift if needed for the articulation but no real concern about body damage. Street legal enough to be a backup vehicle. The crew cab would still get the 4L80E swap, bed mods, and engine upgrades (maybe sell the 4BD1T and go with a bigger engine since towing more often). Crew cab would still do some offroading like it does now, just leave the rock crawling to the k5.

 

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Posted up a thread for the k5 here http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/offroad-toy.47350/

I'm thinking with the finances, the 4BD1T swap might be cancelled. Selling the engine and it's spare parts would help offset the loss of $$ from not selling the k5, and having the same engine in both vehicles would keep maintenance costs/spare parts down.

 

[Will L.]

Square bodies get so much air, they can really handle a turned up 6.2/6.5 without issues. Especially keeping v belt and get ebay hmmwv fanclutch. Then fan on demand, and zero fan down hiway to help with power/ mpg there. And with the rebuild kits you never have to buy a clutch againjust the little kit.

 

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I have a cheap hx35 turbo sitting here with the small 9cm exhaust housing (was planned for the 4bd) that could be useful for the crew cab. Considering the auto, weight of the truck, and tow rig duties it might be too small though and best to go with a ATT.

The crew cab gained a noticeable amount of weight with the addition of the service bed and tools. Not overweight (sitting about 1/4" away from the upper overloads).

Before any performance stuff happens there are other things to be installed first. Plumbing in a coolant filter, secondary trans cooler with a external filter, PTO, wiring harness, service bed mods.

 

[Will L.]

Yep, i would lean ATT for the big boy.

 

[FellowTraveler]

I've been looking at a M1008.....somehow it has a D30 identifier however; it's mileage is 30k+ w//4.56 gearsets.

 

[FellowTraveler]

I have a cheap hx35 turbo sitting here with the small 9cm exhaust housing (was planned for the 4bd) that could be useful for the crew cab. Considering the auto, weight of the truck, and tow rig duties it might be too small though and best to go with a ATT.

The crew cab gained a noticeable amount of weight with the addition of the service bed and tools. Not overweight (sitting about 1/4" away from the upper overloads).

Before any performance stuff happens there are other things to be installed first. Plumbing in a coolant filter, secondary trans cooler with a external filter, PTO, wiring harness, service bed mods.

I've always thought 9 cm2 is too small or the 6.2/6.5 diesel unless you run a BIG CAC. Think small modern blower 'it would take less fabrication and you could run dual exhaust too'.

 

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I've always thought 9 cm2 is too small or the 6.2/6.5 diesel unless you run a BIG CAC. Think small modern blower 'it would take less fabrication and you could run dual exhaust too'.

Being an old square body there is a decent amount of room for a CAC if that happens. Going the turbo route since it's cheaper and I already have plans for enough belt driven accessories (AC back together and a air compressor). For the air compressor I have 2 available. The spare one from my old deuce and a half, or the big one that came with the service bed.



Probably going to stuff that large compressor somewhere else and run it off the PTO for when I need lots of air haha.

For the turbo plans there's a few of the common issues. With the AC system and it's clearance problems I'm planning to update to a more modern setup. Either go with the Vintage Air system, or maybe find a way to transplant the AC system from a newer truck into it. Both will clean up that part of the engine bay giving alot more room. Second issue, the truck is an 82, which means the coarse thread injectors if it hasn't been swapped out for a newer engine over the years. Supposedly that makes for some clearance issues with the stock 6.5 passenger side exhaust manifold. And, the stock 6.2 pre-cups.

Forced induction and AC stuff won't happen until at least next year. Extra filters, bed mods, wiring harness, those are in the plans for this year.

 

[Will L.]

Iirc the injector clearance is just use 2 gaskets.
Anyone know for sure instead of my memory destroying brain?

 

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That would be good. Could also go with the center mount turbo option.

And found out where my minor coolant leak is coming from, the coolant crossover tube. Better options than stock to upgrade to?

 

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Well not the best day with the truck, didn't break down just 2 other issues noted. First is the fan clutch doesn't work, at all. But I'm giving props to the rest of the cooling system since the temps usually stay right at 180, with a climb up to just a hair under the 210 mark after some longer hills where it's working fairly hard. Figured I'd take a look so popped the hood after one of those climbs and tried to move the fan by hand. Took absolutely no effort to spin the fan with the engine off.

Second issue, the suburban fuel tank. Filling this thing has been giving me hell since it was installed. Figured it was sitting too high for the filler neck when the flabed was there as it would burp fuel out of the filler neck and sometimes through the vent. Has a new, clean vent line. When the service bed went on the fuel tank was lowered to where the bottom of it is even with the bottom of the hitch, and the fill tube routed through the rear box to a 90 degree fitting, then up at a pretty steep angle to the rear of the truck. Filling took roughly 2 minutes per gallon (timed on the phone) and it would still send fuel out of the vent line and drain on the ground randomly. Decided it might be the 90 degree at the bottom of the service box (to aim it at the rear of the truck) so removed it and installed a 45 degree upwards fitting, where the filler neck was inside of the rear box on the service bed. Basically, when filling the flow is down at a 45 degree angle for 18in, then raises to flat where it connects to the built in connection at the top of the tank making for as straight of a line as it could have.

Verified that the vent line is on the proper fitting when the pickup was installed in the suburban tank.


So, the suburban tank is coming out and will be lucky if it doesn't get used for target practice. Going to place that 60 gallon tank from the old dump truck at the front of the bed. Means I'll have to climb into the bed when filling up but at least I won't have to dodge fuel getting burped out of the filler neck.

 

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Pic of the last filler neck setup





Going to give the suburban tank 1 final attempt, if the ****er burps diesel on me again it is target practice. Going to cut a access hole in the bed and modify the stock filler neck to be vertical. Where the can is sitting is basically the cutout location.

 

[Will L.]

Do you have pics of how the suburban vent line ties back in?

It should tie in up in the metal spout where you put in the nozzle.

 

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Do you have pics of how the suburban vent line ties back in?

It should tie in up in the metal spout where you put in the nozzle.

It's been routed along the frame rails and goes up at the front of the bed.

The tanks last chance was given today.




Zero fuel burps for the first time ever on this truck (even with the original saddle tanks). The old stock filler neck was temporary since I didn't have a short piece of pipe. 25 gallons pumped in with the fuel pump on the second notch. Will make that into a panel door and by using a short section of pipe the filler neck is short enough to hide. So for long trips only easily moved stuff can sit on the rear 1/3rd of the bed to maintain easy fuel access, but at least the damn thing works for once.

 

[Will L.]

I just grabbed random pic to show that all filler necks have the secondary tube with it. This is where your other line should connect, back at the point of connection for the main line.

Without it any tank fills too fast it can come out. Plus just driving around the fuel slosh will do it too.