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Yet another 6.5 build --- this one for towing

I meant the rpm area before you have boost,you have ported precups ?
 
Oh, OK.... It feels like it is waiting to go..... not sluggish at all, some smoke between shifts or after up shifting, turbo will start to spool as soon as i mash the peddle any at all... the heat starts coming before the motor can start working hard.
 
Yep thought about that, I don't have a way of timing it around here other than by ear....

I haven't found anyone with a MT1480 around anywhere.... don't really want to buy one but might half to....
 
I will need to go back and look to see what brand it is, I know it was bigger than the stock one, it is a HV/HP pump and it had the p/u screen with it.
 
Would it be one like the SEALED POWER Part # 22443621 I find at Rockauto and which is a 1997 HO oil pump made by Melling?
In fact, did you re-use the one which came with the Ted's engine or did you swap it?

I did not reuse the one that came with the motor, it wasn't a HV/HP pump, I think it was a Melling but I will need to look for the part##..... I have 75lbs cold idling, and 55lbs hot idling now...
 
What I found in my Ted's motor was a standard volume high pressure pump melling pump.. high pressure has the purple spring... the replacement pump for the suirter blocks is a high volume standard pressure melling pump which had the taller gears and the spacer in between the pump housing and cover, but had I think maybe a grey or yellow spring, I don't remember for sure.

with my engine, I think hot oil pressure drops to maybe 30 - 40 psi... been awhile since I started it though. Personally, I feel more comfortable with the 60 - 80 psi range, so I contemplated once my lift kit is installed, pulling the oil pan - re installing the hummer pan and installing the purple spring in my oil pump to increase oil pressure...

Mike
 
Considering that in stock lift, you have to run the Ted's engine with a standard oil pan, would you stay with the one which comes with the engine, standard volume high pressure pump melling pump, or would you install a high volume + high pressure pump melling pump (with purple spring).

A high pressure + high volume would not "dry" the pan? Except if it is a Humvee pan?
 
The only person I've heard of having problems with the HVHP pump is Bill in his LSR. Continuos high rpm drained the pan. If your not going to be doing alot of high rpm you should be fine but it is considered overkill. I'd probably be leery of it up here in subzero temps
 
You don't need pressure, you NEED volume. Pressure does you no good if your not getting oil volume. I've seen engines running 60 lbs of oil pressure lockup from oil starvation because the oil wasn't getting where it needed to be. Run the lowest viscosity oil you can while holding minumum oil pressure desired, and keep the oil pressure down to say 45-50 max hot. Anymore is just wasted HP doing nothing but creating heat in your oil and wearing out your oil pump drive and gears. Trying to push more oil pressure than needed is only adding load and wearing your oil pump out as you can only push so much oil through the galley orifices and bearings.
 
Well, my thoughts were.. you're crank - rods - cam all float in a thin layer of oil and the more oil pressure the less chance of galling or spun bearings.
My experiences of running HV / HP pumps have never lead to running out of oil in the lower end (in old 350's - 400's) but the only reason there ever was engine failure was from over revving, stretching rods - floating valves for long periods... stuff like that.

I've twisted bone stock 350's to 7,400 RPM's and 400's to maybe 6,500.. with hv /hp pumps and never spun a bearing.. the carnage came from other areas.

Not trying to argue with anybody or steer anybody in the wrong direction.. just my theories and experiences.

Mike
 
Well, my thoughts were.. you're crank - rods - cam all float in a thin layer of oil and the more oil pressure the less chance of galling or spun bearings.
My experiences of running HV / HP pumps have never lead to running out of oil in the lower end (in old 350's - 400's) but the only reason there ever was engine failure was from over revving, stretching rods - floating valves for long periods... stuff like that.

I've twisted bone stock 350's to 7,400 RPM's and 400's to maybe 6,500.. with hv /hp pumps and never spun a bearing.. the carnage came from other areas.

Not trying to argue with anybody or steer anybody in the wrong direction.. just my theories and experiences.

Mike

The thin layer of oil is what you need, and it gets there via volume. Once the oil leaves the bearing orifice it is no longer under high pressure, so you need to make sure you have teh volume to keep the oil film there. I like to run thin oil, and size the oil pump so it will maintain a reasoneable oil pressure at idle, and be at least mid ways up the RPM range before it reaches peak pressure. I've got a 350 out in the shop that is close to 800HP, and it only has about 55 pounds of oil pressure at 5,000+ with 5W30 oil in it. It has a standard spring in it, but a MELLINGS HV pump. All of the oil galleys in it have been drileld out though to increase the volume of oil flow to ensure that oil film is present without wasting power pumping needless oil pressure to get the oil flow required.
 
FERM, if I don't want to mess with drilling the oil galeys, would I take advantage of a High Pressure pump, though I understand what you mean about wear of oil and temperatures of oil?

Fact is that I'm not rough with my engines and will never go in the red zone: I don't like going beyond 3 000rpms.
 
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