White smoke @ hard accelerations

[treegump]

IF you put a mechanical wastegate, ie turbomaster, your black smoke should go away I would think.

thanks - but i like the black smoke I realize its money going out my pipe - but i'm more worried about the light grey/white smoke when accelerating heavy empty

 

[Monarkman]

Recommendations are 100k miles, most have gone longer. Vendors here have them or there's ebay. Stay away from anything that isn't Bosch, AC Delco or Stanadyne.

Delphi is another good injector. Dieselpro from the Place recommends them.

 

[NVW]

Delphi is another good injector. Dieselpro from the Place recommends them.

That's right, completely slipped my mind.

Leo

 

[treegump]

My buddy in his powerstroke was following me yesterday, and we had our cb's on and he said that it was black smoke. I've been putting some Power Service Fuel Additive that supposedly cleans injectors, etc, and it seems like I blow a little more smoke and gained a little boost (but that boost may just be me with a heavier foot - my typically daily drive is 64 miles, and between Thursday evening and Saturday morning I drove 383 miles...or something like that). Anyhow, I don't know if the fuel additive cleaned up my injectors or if I just can't tell its black smoke from where I'm sitting, but apparently I'm smoking good. Some tail gater got off my back this morning when I downshifted, so that was nice .

 

[treegump]

oh - but I'll upgrade my injectors sometime...just not now - i'm in no hurry seeing as how it still runs.

 

[ryridesmotox]

Heads are expensive. Head gaskets on the other hand aren't. If you are leaking coolant throught the head more times than not it is the gasket. If you have a cracked head it would most likely be oil. Someone correct me if I am mistaken please.

 

[treegump]

Just curious, but if I were to install a mechanical wastegate (say...from Heath), can I uninstall the wastegate solenoid, and actuator, vacuum pump, and everything else that the OEM wastegate needed?

 

[ak diesel driver]

Yes except for the selenoid. I believe you need to leave it plugged in until you chip it.

 

[iamdave0887]

Yes except for the selenoid. I believe you need to leave it plugged in until you chip it.

i think you need to leave the solenoid electrically connected regardless of the chip. I know mine is still hooked up the the wiring harness with Heath's GL4, but that's all.

 

[treegump]

So everything but the solenoid can be yanked from the engine compartment? Would there be a reasonable excuse to leave that stuff in?

 

[ak diesel driver]

no on edit I saw the pics of your engine in another thread and you have an s engine at least it looks like an egr hat on your intake. Do you have 2-3 selenoids side by side on the drivers side valve cover close to the firewall? If so you'll have to leave it all in place for the vacuum to the egr.

 

[treegump]

no on edit I saw the pics of your engine in another thread and you have an s engine at least it looks like an egr hat on your intake. Do you have 2-3 selenoids side by side on the drivers side valve cover close to the firewall? If so you'll have to leave it all in place for the vacuum to the egr.

Well....I'm not sure what to say - my VIN is 1GCGK29F6TE100011 - and so I thought I had an F engine. Needless to say...I'm a bit confused.

 

[treegump]

Well - I'll be the first to admit that I'm an idiot. I never thought to point my rearview mirror down to see what was coming directly out of my tail pipe till today, but all I saw was black smoke. I did have to add a tid bit of coolant and oil in my truck, but because my engine temp isn't moving, the oil on the dip stick isn't frothy, there is no blow by coming out of the oil fill tube, and there is no evidence of gunk under the engine since my new oil cooler & lines were added, I'm gonna go ahead and assume that I'm not leaking fluid inside the motor. I did see what appeared to be coolant on top of the passenger side header, but it may have been diesel fuel from when I had the "T" opened up as I was testing for fuel pressure and that's where I have my line hooked up. (fuel is leaking a little from up top...I think I just need to T into a line to get a better reading...maybe???) Thanks for all your help - but I think I will end up going to a mechanical boost controller after I change my NV4500 fluid and add a tranny gauge. I want to make sure my temps are low on the tranny before I go adding more boost.

Thanks again for the help!! You can bet I'll be coming back to reference this, so nothing was wasted....too bad I didn't think enough earlier. :mad2:

 

[treegump]

While I was changing my 3 glo plugs behind my turbo, I came across green fluid that looked alot like antifreeze. The following pictures start with a close-up, and the each picture after is a little further away.

Also included are pictures of the intake manifold.

 

[treegump]

so...i guess my question would be - is there anything back in that corner that is known to leak, and how difficult is it to fix the problem?

 

[Big T]

so...i guess my question would be - is there anything back in that corner that is known to leak, and how difficult is it to fix the problem?

Could be leaking at the crossover to the head and running back there. You have to trace it down.

 

[ak diesel driver]

I could be wrong but I think there is a heater hose quick connect above that area.

 

[turbovanman]

Delphi is another good injector. Dieselpro from the Place recommends them.

Yeah, I have those on my van, so far, so good, :thumbsup:

 

[treegump]

A few questions:

1) I don't have the money to purchase new injectors, so would it be possible to buy 1 or 2 at this time? Would that help my truck start in the morning any better? Would that effect how the engine runs (in a negative way)?

2) When I plugged in my truck, it popped a breaker in the house, and when I reset the breaker, smoke started coming up from where the plug connects to the engine. Could that short be causing fewer than 8 glow plugs from warming up the block? Is the plug related to the glow plugs?

3) The antifreeze is coming from that heater hose - but not the quick disconnect. It appears the leak is coming from what is supposed to be a solid pipe where that bracket is on top of the block on the passenger side. There are 3-4 hose clamps with a bunch of hose bits...so my guess is the line cracked or something and the previous owner just fixed it with hose and clamps...

 

[ak diesel driver]

Most likely the cord on your block heater is shorting out and no it doesn't have anyhting to do with your glow system.