I have no experience with the ARP stud kits, but the reviews are real good.
For a good rebuild, the boxed TTY bolts from Felpro are fine.
Most factory built engine would run 200k + miles without issues.
The only real advantage I see with the ARP studs on the 6.5 is that they are reusable.
The failure point up top is not the bolts, its the gaskets, and this is due to erosion around the fire ring from coolant that's exposed to the blind block area at the front.
Once the block erodes, the stainless fire ring will blow through.
The newer Felpro head gaskets have a stainless reinforcing that covers that entire area to help prevent the problem.
Sadly, the actions of many scammers has Effed things for everyone.
Doing a build yourself is really the only good solution.
Along with all the great info that's here and on other forums like TDP you can do a top notch job.
With the mass knowledge accrued from those of us who have struggled through several of these engines, the pitfalls can be avoided.
A 6.5 is not really any harder to rebuild than a Chevy mouse motor.
The parts are a tad heavier, but all the basics are the same.
The diesel part is no biggy, as these engines have all the basics like block, crank, pistons, rods, rings bearings, cam, lifters, timing chain and gears.
Just pay good attention to details and your set.
One real important step on a 6.2/6.5 is to remove all the stress risers in the lower end.
This entails breaking all sharp corners on the main webs with a nice new fine cut file.
The part lines in the main web area (especially the 3 center webs) are razor sharp, and this is just like a sharply folded piece of paper, it will tear (Crack) easily
Break the edges at a 45 degree angle about 1/32" wide.
Do not alter the register fit where the mains fit into the block, but a careful maneuver with a very tiny BALL CUTTER in a die grinder to just remove the razor sharp angle at the bottom of the register is a good thing.
Lightly chamfer all the main bolt holes. Again 1/32" wide, and use a good countersink in a variable speed drill.
The oil passage holes in the main saddles as well as the squirt nozzle holes also need to be chamfered.
JUST BREAK THE SHARP EDGE IS ALL THAT'S NEEDED
The starter bolt holes need the same treatment as well.
Do this on an oil free block, preferably before it heads to the machine shop for boring.
Always have the cam bearings removed before boring/machine work.
This allows the block to be cleaned well.
There are areas behind some of the cam bearings that could allow metal from machining to collect.
Before you have the cam bearings removed MAKE A MAP OF WHERE THE OIL HOLES ARE LOCATED ON EACH ONE 1 2 3 4 5 This is very important !!!!!
Run an appropriate tap through all the head bolt holes to clear all the old sealant, and do so before the block is hot tanked.
Never use lube on the threads in the block when using TTY bolts. With ARP STUDS follow MFG directions
If there is any erosion on the cyl deck, they need to be cut.
Make sure the top of each cylinder is chamfered to about 1/16" or so after a rebore, as this will allow the rings to enter easily without snagging or damage. (Some shops don't do it)
Attention to details is not difficult but is important to getting a top notch result.
These little details can make all the difference.
More good stuff from the folder marked Experience :hello:
Missy
