• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

What else should I do while I have the intake off?

D

dka99burb

Member
Messages
650
Reaction score
4
Location
Reidsville, NC
I have the intake off getting ready to replace the IP. I am only able to work on it a little bit about every other day so I have time to do mods while it's apart. I don't want to have to pull it any time soon so what else should I do while working on it? Here is my current plan as I complete this task. What do yall think?

1. Install Leroy's OPS relocator
2. Install two 12T1E thermostats
3. Do something about replacing that crappy quick disconnect heater hose. Thinking brass barb and straight hose. Any suggestions?
4. Pull Turbo off and replace leaky drain tube. I don't know where or why it is leaking but it is and it is hard to see. What is best way to get to it?
5. Tap fuel line for pressure gauge sending unit while I have access. Any recommendations on where to tap and what to use?
6. Finish up with installing my gauges: fuel pressure, boost (boost bolt), trans temp. Plan to purchase EGT in near future.
7. Thought about removing vac pump and installing a turbo master but the vac system is working right now.
8. Do I have to get the hose that goes from the water pump to the thermostat housing from the dealer? I think mine was original. I had to cut it!:rolleyes5:
 
dka99burb said:
I have the intake off getting ready to replace the IP. I am only able to work on it a little bit about every other day so I have time to do mods while it's apart. I don't want to have to pull it any time soon so what else should I do while working on it? Here is my current plan as I complete this task. What do yall think?

1. Install Leroy's OPS relocator
2. Install two 12T1E thermostats
3. Do something about replacing that crappy quick disconnect heater hose. Thinking brass barb and straight hose. Any suggestions?
4. Pull Turbo off and replace leaky drain tube. I don't know where or why it is leaking but it is and it is hard to see. What is best way to get to it?
5. Tap fuel line for pressure gauge sending unit while I have access. Any recommendations on where to tap and what to use?
6. Finish up with installing my gauges: fuel pressure, boost (boost bolt), trans temp. Plan to purchase EGT in near future.
7. Thought about removing vac pump and installing a turbo master but the vac system is working right now.
8. Do I have to get the hose that goes from the water pump to the thermostat housing from the dealer? I think mine was original. I had to cut it!:rolleyes5:
Click to expand...

9. New Glow plug Harness
10. New Battery Cables
11. lol
 
New clear fuel lines (supply and return) so you can check for air bubbles IF you ever need to diagnose hard starting problems.

Possibly FTB while its all apart and you have access (not a big concern if you dont plan on modifying the truck much)

Check the FFM for proper sealing and heater function.

You can put a T in the fuel line where ever you want between the filter and IP (could put a 2nd T pre filter to check loss of pressure across filter)
 
dka99burb said:
8. Do I have to get the hose that goes from the water pump to the thermostat housing from the dealer? I think mine was original. I had to cut it!:rolleyes5:
Click to expand...

I think its just 1" hose. Get the highest quality you can as its only 6-8" Gates green stripe comes to mind.
tanman_2006 said:
(could put a 2nd T pre filter to check loss of pressure across filter)
Click to expand...
My Fuel pressure tap will do the same thing :thumbsup:
 
Oil return line leaking. Where is the oil eminating from?
I found my turbo oil return to be leaking at the silicon hose joining the downtube to the engine block. Check the hose clamps for tightness or replace the hose and clamps. Another point could be at the turbo and the fault of either a loose bolt or bad gasket (damaged when turbo removed for injectors?).
10mm bolts at the turbo IIRC. I use a stubby wrench for the bolt closest to the motor and a deep socket on the outer one.
 
Paveltolz said:
Oil return line leaking. Where is the oil eminating from?
I found my turbo oil return to be leaking at the silicon hose joining the downtube to the engine block. Check the hose clamps for tightness or replace the hose and clamps. Another point could be at the turbo and the fault of either a loose bolt or bad gasket (damaged when turbo removed for injectors?).
10mm bolts at the turbo IIRC. I use a stubby wrench for the bolt closest to the motor and a deep socket on the outer one.
Click to expand...

Your right Paul The old hose on my truck was hard as a rock and Leaking, I used High temp Copper silicone between my Turbo and the tube No leaks, I also sealed the Turbo to the Manifold with the Silicone, its still tight as a drum and before anyone poo poos the silicone its the only thing that will keep the headers Sealed on Cup and Nationwide Engines
 
I use black RTV on my headers without a gasket and they have been fine for over eight years now.
 
When I bought 635's ATT he included a modified oil return line set up that works fine with either the GMx or ATT. Made the numerous turbo swaps easier too as I could disconnect the line, remove the turbo and then swap the return line mount.

Pardon the repost of the pictures.
DSC00802.jpg
DSC00800.jpg

As to the original question: I'd run new fuel lines in there whether you go with a Feed the Beast mod or not and if you've a mind to do so, relocate the FFM or take the time and go visit Raceday and get a set up like he's got. Sweet.
 
Oh, I am thinking of getting rid of the vac pump while I have stuff out of the way too(pulled the radiator and cleaned it). It's time for a belt anyway. Anybody got a TM cheap?
I will have to look up the belt length again if I do this. Its working fine but from what I have read this is something I should do...
 
Update with more 'finds'

I finally got a little time the other night to finish pulling the IP and went ahead and pulled the FFM as recommended. I am glad I did since it had a lot of crap in it including what appeared to be sand?? I also cussed GM, aloud, a bit for the extremely dumb way they mounted the connectors backward on the harness and plate at the firewall.:mad2:

FFM Dirt1.jpg

FFM Dirt3.jpg

It is difficult to see in the picture but the brown is find sand like stuff. Made brown fuel.
FFM Dirt2.jpg

What do you make of this?
FFM Side.jpg

Fun, Fun....
 
yeah. The last one is just the water in fuel sensor. I don't see that I really need that... Just didn't understand how a sensor would have that problem. I guess it is not properly fused.

Any recommendations on fuel lines if I am not going to do the FTB mod? Particularly the molded IP feed line..

IP fuel line.jpg
 
Burning oil said:
I know Bruce is running one of my Walbro LPs but I think Paul referers to his raycor filter?
Click to expand...
Yes, the Raycor set up mounted up front over the PS pump. Nice set up. I like mine too but his is better, just my opinion.

That sand would make me drop the tank and check things out in there . The snot sock is either AWOL or in need of replacement and the tank could probably use a cleaning.
 
For tank cleaning i recommend a pressure washer, with 0 degree nozzle, and a strong caustic based detergent of your choice. Through the sender pickup hole blast the snot out of it shooting a pattern into the tank dancing the wand about. Rig the tank up so the water will run out the neck and not fill the tank and git in your way. I had a tank on a 50's Farmall drive me nuts for years flaking off bits and blocking the carb just when I was plowing at full honk. Finally wigged out and got up on a scaffold above the tractor and blasted the tank out. That stripped all the built up varnish off and now two seasons later no carb jet plugging. That was really tough to diagnose, the varnish would almost disappear in the gas but not dissolve until it sat over night. :cryin:
 
Yeah. I think it is going to force me to have to pull the fuel tank. Not the extra work I really wanted but like I said before; I want to do this right and once! I will tackle the tank next since I don't want to suck anything up and send it to my new IP. Can I do away with the tank sock if I add a pre LP screw on filter?
 
Yea you can, most non automotive apps I have seen do not have socks in the tank. A filter before the lift pump has to be a screen or a strainer, aka mesh filter, that big store with all the racing parts has a big variety of them all sorts of connections and type. The one they sell as a replacement for the Holley Projection is not to pricey.
 
Without a Pre-Filter though...Your call but I refer you to the mess in your FFM. I pulled my tank doing the Metrum Fuel Sender upgrade and replaced the sock even though I have a pre-filter at the Walbro. The old one wasn't so bad after over 180k so I figure why not have another layer of protection. Then again, a 10 micron pre-LP filter is more protection than the what, 30 micron sock and if the pre-filter gets plugged up it is easier to swap than that sock... @#$%^ now you got me wondering:???: I'll check it this week once my tank runs down as I have another issue that needs addressing and I'm going to go through the joy of dropping mine...again.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top