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What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

Paveltolz said:
BigT and I used our trucks for a great photo op at the end of a short GTG at my place.

View attachment 94459

He’s north bound to the homestead in MT now.

Happy Father’s Day all.
Click to expand...
Thank you Paveltolz for hosting me. Glad you finally got to drive the ‘99 after our Optimizer install last August (transfer case was stuck in neutral, so we couldn’t drive it). I’ll some minor things to work on, but hopefully I am mostly fishing. The 2nd leg of the trip to Montana was uneventful.
 
Stepsons wifey was in Billings this morning. I was making plans to make that drive over to Harbor Fright to get one of those $29.99 compression test kits.
I called Nicole and asked if she could stop over there and pick up one of those for Me.
She was plenty happy to do so.
IMG_3381.jpeg

Apparently they were out of the 29 dollar units so she brought back this one.
Seems to have the 10mm GP adapter so its all good by Me.

IMG_3382.jpeg

I prefer tools in their case.
She told me, do not even attempt to pay me for this. Anytime Nick needs help or advice with tools You are always there and ready and willing.
I told Her, yeah well Nick always works on the fun stuff so its always enjoyable.
 
While I have enough of the pereferals removed from the engine to try and figure where the oil is leaking from, going to run a compression test, as was suggested by @Will L. In earlier threads and posts.
At the least doing a compression test now will give Me a base line for diagnosing any unforeseeable events down the road.
 
I started on the install of this Pioneer head unit in the ‘99 Suburban:

IMG_8874.png

This is narrower than the original stereo units, so I had to order adapter brackets and face plate to the fill the gaps:

IMG_8875.png

I’m done with some of the wiring as I pursue a process of elimination.

1. I need to wiring to the power side of the parking brake switch, but where is this switch?

2. Need to wire to the lights on switch, same thing: where?

3. Need to wire to back-up lights so it knows whether I’m in reverse or going forward. Where?

4. Unit has all sorts of single post receptacles for speakers. How do I accomplish that when the existing were in a single plug?
 
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Big T said:
I started on the install of this Pioneer head unit in the ‘99 Suburban:

View attachment 94557

This is narrower than the original stereo units, so I had to order adapter brackets and face plate to the fill the gaps:

View attachment 94558

I’m done with some of the wiring as I pursue a process of elimination.

1. I need to wiring to the power side of the parking brake switch, but where is this switch?

2. Need to wire to the lights on switch, same thing: where?

3. Need to wire to back-up lights so it knows whether I’m in reverse or going forward. Where?

4. Unit has all sorts of single post receptacles for speakers. How do I accomplish that when the existing were in a single plug?
Click to expand...
I have the dash unit thats got the opening for the double din units.
Pay the postage and I’ll send it to You.
I’m no longer needing it and its still in its shipping crate.
 
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Big T said:
Funny, in the video they were bragging about the owner being a billionaire.
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Doesn’t matter. We all heard it not running right. Having the resources doesn’t mean he spends it all or that whoever takes care of his car collection knows anything at all about 6.2/6.5. Heck, the military thinks it’s perfectly fine to run a 6.5 at 240°f. I catch flak from many of the hmmwv community because of my frequent comments of pullmover and let it idle when it hits 220°f- and that is the temperature that engages the fan on them!
If I could have made one impact to improve the $ wasted on hmmwvs- that would be it. Doing the whole hoodscoop thing I tried to get them to understand that temperature but it fell on dear ears.

You might not be a billionaire but are doing better than the average 6.5 owner. It doesn’t mean you throw money at it and have the perfect specimen.

I find this os quite often the case. Back when I was partners owning a truck equipment business, one customer was a now dead Jim Rogers (Vegas ine not Soros’ buddy) who owned everything named Sunbelt in the southwest- tv, radio stations, heavy equipment rentals, on & on. He was in the eyes of the public a generous guy but behind closed doors loved to strangle hold small businesses and mine was one of them - seriously hurt our shop of a dozen people over 1920 Overland Whippet we restored for him. We did a ton of his hug car collection, even repainting his channel 3 helicopter just before my partnership took over the business. That guy wanted things to look right, not to be right. Didn’t care how well it ran, just that it started easy so he could show off to whoever he was trying to impress at the moment. Many of his classics he had us adjust or modify so that it started easier even if it meant the rig couldn’t drive over 10mph because showing a collection you might start several but almost never move most of them.
And the “fires right up” gives the impression it must be perfect. Just like 99% of the people who see that hmmwv being driven think: that thing is ready to go to war!” Truth is that thing the billionaire is driving is way out of time and sounds like his injectors are heavily mismatched and has either non seated rings or rings that were overheated and is not seating for that reason.

One of the reasons I love db2 over ds4: get the timing right and all other hiccups become easy to see. If that was a ds4, the ecm would compensate for that running so bad. And while that sounds like a good thing to some, I rather know whats wrong and address it than let a computer compensate and hide it until it all goes too wrong.
 
Got my truck stripped down.
Intake manifold and turbo removed washed it down real good then back together just enough to fire it up and run it.
Can not find that oil leak. Had both PTO option switches kicked up to about 1600 RPMs for a good half an hour but probably longer.
No oil from the rocker arm covers or any place else.
Maybe I am misdiagnosing my problem.


I was thinking probably a loose or cracked injector tube, got out that fancy 19mm wrench with the hinged end and was able to snug on all the injector tube nuts, they all were tight, and, if it was a loose or cracked tube flange then it would be leaking from the tube end of the nut. Its Not doing that.
It appears to be coming from the area where the tube nut threaded adapters hooks to the flange on the back side of the IP.

Guess I’ll poke my original IP back into the hole with a different advance stepper motor on it then see how it does.
Maybe it will throw no more codes.
Then after I make this months CC payment get one of those new IPs on the way.
 
Michael from QS tuning is requesting a RGA from Flight systems. He said this is the only the second time He has had to do that.
I dont want to have to wait for two weeks or more to put this effing thing back together.
This POS has really got Me down. I have never, ever been on a project that has been so effing relentless on one damn thing after another.
Just seems there will never be an end to this 💩.
I was headed to Ohio with this POS and couldnt even get a hundred miles out and the effer breaks again.
I would think that after about $15,000.00 that this thing should be able to run from now unto eternity and back but then a faulty IP rears its ugly head.
IDK if my rant is yet over.
 
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