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What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

Daylight is appearing, time to get to the garage, get that original IP removed and the new unit installed.
See how it runs with that.
Today I’ll box the reman Flight Systems pump and send it back.
I am in no way condemning the FS reman pumps.
I believe that it was a fluke that I got one with a loose fitting.
Dont be afraid to try one out, just be sure to run the engine for about an hour, before installing the intake manifold and checking for any possible leaks.
 
Original IP is removed from the engine.
Beginning to warm out there.
Shut down the garage and fired up the AC unit.
See if it’ll cool some before I invite my friend over to mess more with this Triumph motorcicle.
That and I have a couple parts I need to remove from the original pump and install onto the new unit.
More to come.
 
MrMarty51 said:
Daylight is appearing, time to get to the garage, get that original IP removed and the new unit installed.
See how it runs with that.
Today I’ll box the reman Flight Systems pump and send it back.
I am in no way condemning the FS reman pumps.
I believe that it was a fluke that I got one with a loose fitting.
Dont be afraid to try one out, just be sure to run the engine for about an hour, before installing the intake manifold and checking for any possible leaks.
Click to expand...
I would never trust a box store or similar rebuilt off the shelf
 
jrsavoie said:
I would never trust a box store or similar rebuilt off the shelf
Click to expand...
This is a Flight Systems IP.
The pump was functioning real nice like, it just had a loose fitting.
I checked all eight of the outlet fittings on the back of the new pump. They all seemed to be tight.
New Stanadyne PD is getting mounted to a new heat sink.
I’m welding on another heat sink mounting tab behind the front bumper, this morning, if the wind stays at zero. Then I’ll mount that heat sink and run the Stanadyne PD and hope it is a good one.
If that PD fails then I’ll switch back to the old Dorman unit and mount a new Flight Systems PD on that heat sink.
I did remove a new FS PD from the box, they clearly are marked, made in the USA.
Oh yeah, since the PD is not mounted to the pump, I now call them a PD, or, Pump Driver. 🫣😹😹😹
And, the new pump is now mounted to the engine and the line/pipes will get hook this morning before the temps get to about 90 degrees F.
One more heat sink and I’ll have two spares. 😹😹😹
 
Fired the truck up. Runs great. Getting good at bolting the pump to the engine and getting the timing offset fairly close.
Checked the offset and it is on -0.079. I left it there.
After fixing one fuel return hose at the front of the right sside head, seems to not have some leaks.
After about an hour at 1500 RPMs then another half an hour while I was making arrangements to get the intake manifold into position, seen this oil spot.
IMG_3516.jpeg
Got under and could not determine where it would have came from.
Cleaned everything with B&P cleaner and will look it over in the mornin.
Now letting it cool some so the prestone can drain down about a gallon or so, then remove the upper radiator hose from the t-Stat housing to get the intake manifold worked into position.
 
Lower Intake back on. Wires and hoses all hooked. Turbo setting on the exhaust manifold and the nutz is all on but not tight.
Had to take a break to come in and watch Gold Rush. 😹😹😹😹
It will be finished tomorrow. 🫣😃😹
 
MrMarty51 said:
Fired the truck up. Runs great. Getting good at bolting the pump to the engine and getting the timing offset fairly close.
Checked the offset and it is on -0.079. I left it there.
After fixing one fuel return hose at the front of the right sside head, seems to not have some leaks.
After about an hour at 1500 RPMs then another half an hour while I was making arrangements to get the intake manifold into position, seen this oil spot.
View attachment 94718
Got under and could not determine where it would have came from.
Cleaned everything with B&P cleaner and will look it over in the mornin.
Now letting it cool some so the prestone can drain down about a gallon or so, then remove the upper radiator hose from the t-Stat housing to get the intake manifold worked into position.
Click to expand...
4wd oil filter adapter. They always leak. My new optimizer has a slight leak from there.
 
The ‘99 was experiencing pulse from the front end particularly at speeds of 70 to 80 mph. Tires are brand new and have the balance beads installed. Pulse is up and down, but I felt like the wheels had a rapid wobble to them.

So this morning I went through everything the front end. All ball joints, tie rods, everything was tight, but still had some play in the steering. Set up phone on a tripod aimed at the Pitman arm and turned the video on. What I thought might be play in the Pitman arm was something else:


I had installed a new steering dampener about two months ago and followed their instructions. The left side mounting bolt was re-used, but it was too small. I replaced it with a larger M12 bolt and now all the pulse is gone and the steering is tight as it has ever been. Even my wife noticed the improvement, but she said it’s not as tight as the steering on her 4Runners. She’s comparing rack and pinion steering to a steering box which is apples to oranges.
 
Big T said:
4wd oil filter adapter. They always leak. My new optimizer has a slight leak from there.
Click to expand...
The adapter bolt was moist so cleaned it off, got out the 1-7/16ths, might have been 1-3/8ths socket with the 3/4 to 1/2 adapter and give it some snug.
That seems to have stopped that seep. It was still dry after the several test runs.
I’m putting it back together. Turbo and upper intake is all thats left on the engine.
Then inner fender and those components and hope to get some trouble free miles from this old beast.
 
Finished wwith the engine portion. Installed inner fender and air filter.
Checked all fluid levels, fired it up and took it for a drive.
With the IP leaking on over 100 miles of the last journey, it took only 20 gallons to fill the tank.
Reset the trip meter, now we shall see.
After I got back in the driveway, looked under the truck but could see no liquid dripping down.
Placed the cardboard back under it. I’ll see now if its all cured.
 
Will L. said:
🤞
Click to expand...
Cardboard was under the truck for about five hours.
There was not one drip or drop anywhere on any of the three pieces covering the ground under the truck.
Next journey is going to be over 300 miles round trip.
I have a very high in BTU rated furnace that my friend (like a son) is wanting and three scaffold legs that He built so he could paint his “ TIN TWINKIE “, or, trailer house. Going to haul those back to him too.
I’ll haul those items into the cabin and He will pick them up there.
I’ll be at the cabin most of three days, taking Friday off work.
Going to haul along my cardboard leak detectors too.
If this thing has one drip, I want to know it.
Thats about all for now.
 
Visiting Bill H in WA and helping Chris Mursik, my Land Speed racing team owner, prep his Karman Gia for Bonneville. It holds 16 records with various motors to include 1/2 VW (2 pistons removed). This week we’re kinda playing musical chairs with engines and such. Pull a front end and transmission/driveline out of a dune buggy. Pull an engine from a Bug street racer, pull the current engine (2 cylinders) out of the Gia, Switcheroo the gooder parts into the Gia.
IMG_1437.jpeg
IMG_1438.jpeg
This morning I realized I needed an oil change and had a moment to get after it. While under there I think I may have found one of the sources for the rattle noises I get from the front when driving over road imperfections.
IMG_1447.jpeg

Good thing the bolt didn’t hit anything important or do any damage. Oh wait….
Half the shock mount snapped off because the bolt got caught up in…
IMG_1449.jpeg

…the CV joint!
IMG_1446.jpeg

Thankfully, Chris is a car fabricator and industrial welder so he fabbed up a replacement shock mount and had it repaired in short order.
3066086280918673917.jpeg

Looks good. Better than new.
IMG_1452.jpeg
 
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