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What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

I had mine on the 93, but it's pushing so much oil out it would put a fine mist all over the engine compartment! switched to routing the hoses to a gallon paint can with some 1" fittings on the side. filled it full of stainless pot scrubbers for surface area. that seems to be helping except for I didn't put a drain on the paint can, so..... lol

put the CKO provent on the 95 since it has blow by but it's not pushing oil. just has some residue on the turbo boot. figured I would put it on there and see if it catches anything. two weeks of driving it and there's no oil in the clear drain tube I put on it down by the frame rail yet.
 
dbrannon79 said:
My CKO one didn't have a check valve in it. only one it had was on the top cap in case of it over-pressurizing, but it still leaked around the cap seal. the can is not perfectly round and leaks.
Click to expand...
Where would the check valve be? What is that cover on the side of the can?

Really it doesn’t matter, because I am done with this experiment.
 
Big T said:
Where would the check valve be? What is that cover on the side of the can?

Really it doesn’t matter, because I am done with this experiment.
Click to expand...
on the real provent that cover on the side houses the check valve. on the CKO version I have, that cover is not removable and it's hollow in there leading to the filter. iirc that check valve is supposed to close if there is too much suction on the intake side. same as how the CDR works.
 
on yours did the top cap separate from the inner piece? mine came detached and you have to pop the inner part with the o-ring in the housing then put on the cap. the top of that inner piece has a spring loaded relief that is supposed to push open when the internal pressure goes high but that part on mine doesn't work. it leaks too bad for it to build any internal pressure LOL
 
dbrannon79 said:
on yours did the top cap separate from the inner piece? mine came detached and you have to pop the inner part with the o-ring in the housing then put on the cap. the top of that inner piece has a spring loaded relief that is supposed to push open when the internal pressure goes high but that part on mine doesn't work. it leaks too bad for it to build any internal pressure LOL
Click to expand...
That side cap readily came off. The whole this is a POS. I threw it in my GM Turbo crash kit bin which has all my OEM parts for restoring in case I had to pass Smog test somewhere.
 
I bet the real one wouldn't leak! but I do think it's all about the filter material on how well it does. during my "experimenting" I used some oil absorbent material what we call elephant tampon which is a sheet of loose fiberglass cloth. that stuff can be laid in a puddle of water with oil floating and it will suck up all the oil or fuel and leave the water behind. I wrapped the stainless filter with some in a single layer and it was filtering 100% of the oil fumes from my crankcase but only lasted for about a week or two until it clogged up due to the engine pushing out so much oil.
 
What Have I done for my "Beast lately"....getting ready to travel from MS to NC Ashville/Black mountain area work with a MS Baptist Disaster relief Team to restore some houses still without power or water from last Sept. flood to say that pisses me off is an understatement.

Anyway it has been some time since I have shown the "old girl" some TLC, I had a company lease car for a good many years, after retiring I bought a "gasser" 2020 Canyon, also a 06 5.9 Cummins in a Dodge dually wrapper., so with price of Diesel I've been driving the gasser on most of my every day trips, and light duty hauling.

Last time I drove her 2 months ago, I had to do an emergency stop that started the main piston seal in hydro-boost to leaking PS fluid, so earlier in the week I installed a "Pirate jack" seal kit and fixed that leak. 2 weeks ago since I had been having a nuisance leak on the input seal on rear diff, new seal fixed that. Same for the output seal of the transfer case not major but did not want it to give way on long road trip.

Today I fixed the last (I Think) another nuisance oil leak from the OPS extension plumbing I put on to get OPS out from under the intake, so far so good at idle up to 2500 rpm under my carport; and lastly I reset timing on the IP/TDCO offset.

With that, I think I should be in good shape, road test tomorrow, & will head up North to NC, then to VA to see 88 y/o Mom (surprise her) after I finish the DR trip on 23 May, I figured it has been a couple of years and 6 hr. drive East better that 17 North from MS to Norfolk VA, then week after I'll drive back to MS from VA, should be good workout for my "Beast"
 
Changed oil & oil filters yesterday I run Amsoil remote duplex/bypass filter setup with Baldwin filters, and added 12oz. R-134 to AC, test drive SAT. now ready to roll to NC, gonna be out for a bit, see y'all later. Hoping to hook up with Big R who lives about 30 min or so from where our DR team will be staying.
 
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