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What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

dbrannon79 said:
That might work. I would like to go back to the OEM style filter that had the metal top and removable ring. I can get the filters but have not found the ring for it. I feel like that style would seal better than these aftermarket one piece caps.
Click to expand...
I never had a problem with leaks from this unit. I just wanted to spend some money for something that might be better.
I think that the engine never did lack for fuel with the 5/16ths hoses.
 
as for the facet LP with the sediment bowl, I have that on both trucks down on the frame. I see the jungle site shows little 100w and 75w filter blankets. I think that wattage is too much. maybe if I can come up with some 12v heat tape like used on water pipes that would pull maybe 50 watts I can use that and a regular heat wrap around them I could rig that up to the truck and have some sort of device to tend the battery overnight that will work for freezing temps.
 
MrMarty51 said:
I never had a problem with leaks from this unit. I just wanted to spend some money for something that might be better.
I think that the engine never did lack for fuel with the 5/16ths hoses.
Click to expand...
What did you replace your FFM with? I know it gets mighty colder where your at than in central Texas. we rarely see anything below freezing. Although when we do...Burrr....
 
dbrannon79 said:
That might work. I would like to go back to the OEM style filter that had the metal top and removable ring. I can get the filters but have not found the ring for it. I feel like that style would seal better than these aftermarket one piece caps.
Click to expand...
For some reason the little screws for the WIF sensor are not with the housing.
Maybe I needed them to install a new WIF sensor onto the FTB unit.
I think the heater and sensor are in good working order but You might want to check them out.
IMG_1207.jpeg
 
I still have the FFM that came off the 95 truck that at the time didn't leak, only reason I removed it was I didn't like the fuel hoses under the intake. problem is on it is I made a mistake. drained the fuel from it and left it in the shed. went to get it out and found it plumb full of some sort of white crystal like stuff. I had to pry the old filter out having a pile of that stuff. it doesn't look like the normal aluminum corrosion that eats the metal. I was thinking about taking it to work and having it sandblasted inside and out in an effort to save it.
 
dbrannon79 said:
I still have the FFM that came off the 95 truck that at the time didn't leak, only reason I removed it was I didn't like the fuel hoses under the intake. problem is on it is I made a mistake. drained the fuel from it and left it in the shed. went to get it out and found it plumb full of some sort of white crystal like stuff. I had to pry the old filter out having a pile of that stuff. it doesn't look like the normal aluminum corrosion that eats the metal. I was thinking about taking it to work and having it sandblasted inside and out in an effort to save it.
Click to expand...
Might try a quick shot of muriatic acid. It will dull the aluminum but it leaves it mighty clean too. Smokes like My aunt ruth too. 😹😹😹
 
Muriatic acid took the black brake dust off of My aluminum wheels.
I did that in about three steps.
Acid, let it smoke a while then rinse. Let it dry a little then another shot of acid. About thrice of that and there is no more dirt, grime or brake dust.
 
MrMarty51 said:
For some reason the little screws for the WIF sensor are not with the housing.
Maybe I needed them to install a new WIF sensor onto the FTB unit.
I think the heater and sensor are in good working order but You might want to check them out.
View attachment 90859
Click to expand...
yours looks practically new! let me see if I can find the plastic ring that holds the filter like your FTB one. I feel like that is my whole problem. these aftermarket caps the auto parts gives you with the filters now rotate on the seal when you tighten down on them, I'm sure the combination of an already squashed seal and this cap is the issue. when I cranked on the cap one side seems to have lifted slightly like it's about to slip over the threads.

if I can find a source for that threaded ring I will order a new OE style filter with the metal top and seal.
 
Went to start the ‘99 this am after a fresh snow and temp of 31F. Cycled the glows just two seconds and it started immediately and ran clean with just a little puff of white smoke.

Went to fill it up and the ABS light came back on. Still believe it’s a ground issue, but I’ll deal with that when it’s down in SoCal.

Talked with Mechanic on 4Lo and he believes that portion is due to encoder motor.
 
Will it give you any codes for the ABS? I know both of my trucks have bad front wheel speed sensors. I melted the drinkers side on the 93 due to a brake hose failed. on the 95 the sensor got destroyed somehow. all I did was disco the connectors on the pump under the hood which eliminated the light. a cheap conversion to non-ABS LOL
 
dbrannon79 said:
Will it give you any codes for the ABS? I know both of my trucks have bad front wheel speed sensors. I melted the drinkers side on the 93 due to a brake hose failed. on the 95 the sensor got destroyed somehow. all I did was disco the connectors on the pump under the hood which eliminated the light. a cheap conversion to non-ABS LOL
Click to expand...
I’ll check ABS codes.

I called AC Delco on the transfer case encoder motor and they are processing a warranty claim on my behalf with Amazon. Preference priority: 1) New encoder motor that works, 2) full refund. They said it could take up to 5 days for Amazon to respond.
 
Big T said:
Went to start the ‘99 this am after a fresh snow and temp of 31F. Cycled the glows just two seconds and it started immediately and ran clean with just a little puff of white smoke.

Went to fill it up and the ABS light came back on. Still believe it’s a ground issue, but I’ll deal with that when it’s down in SoCal.

Talked with Mechanic on 4Lo and he believes that portion is due to encoder motor.
Click to expand...
The pigup the school district provides is a beat to crap 2001 ford 250 super duty.
Used it to pull a trailer of leaves to the landfill.
Ready to pull out of the dump spot and truck spun out on the mud.
Twisted the switch to 4 Lo.
Got out of the shitsuation, twisted back to 2 Hi. No go back to 2 Hi, still stuck in 4 Lo.
Called the super micromanager and told him, was instructed to make an appt at the shop he uses.
Called the shop, told him of the shituation, He told me how to get it to shift back to 2 Hi.
Stop, engage the transmixer to neutral, put the switch back to 4 Lo, now to 2 Hi.
It worked.
I was pleasantly surprised.
@Big T
Could this be a problem with Your encoder ?
 
MrMarty51 said:
The pigup the school district provides is a beat to crap 2001 ford 250 super duty.
Used it to pull a trailer of leaves to the landfill.
Ready to pull out of the dump spot and truck spun out on the mud.
Twisted the switch to 4 Lo.
Got out of the shitsuation, twisted back to 2 Hi. No go back to 2 Hi, still stuck in 4 Lo.
Called the super micromanager and told him, was instructed to make an appt at the shop he uses.
Called the shop, told him of the shituation, He told me how to get it to shift back to 2 Hi.
Stop, engage the transmixer to neutral, put the switch back to 4 Lo, now to 2 Hi.
It worked.
I was pleasantly surprised.
@Big T
Could this be a problem with Your encoder ?
Click to expand...
I have a neutral light for the transfer case, but I can’t shift the transfer case into neutral. There is no neutral shift button. I think there is a way where you press a couple buttons at the same time, rub your belly and pat your head.
 
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