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What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

dbrannon79 said:
@Big T run you a longer loop. it looks like the return piping is closer to the IP that it normally would be. not an issue though, just add about 8 extra inches of length and loop it around the turbo oil feed hose and you should be good without a kink.
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I tried a longer loop and had the same result. Kept cutting it back until this point. Hard to do it in colder weather.
 
dieselolds said:
EBay has the replacement foam for the bucket seats for those trucks.I changed the foam in my seats on my 96 gmc truck.It worked out beautifully.Very firm and stable after everything was replaced.The lower foam membrane was $150 each.
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I've looked for them but they are all for like you say 96+. since this is a 93 the seats are slightly different. curious though if those for the newer model would work or could be made to work.
 
Stringing in a wire for a FP gauge back at the Air Dog LP.
IMG_1200.jpeg
I installed the FFM. And so there will be a pressure gauge phor both sending units, as prescribed by @Will L. I do believe.
I know it is ugly, long as it dont expose its ugly head I dont care.
IMG_1201.jpeg

And so, in this position is at the AD sender.
Flip the switch for the post FFM right at the IP.
IMG_1203.jpeg
 
Going to change out the coolant temp gauge to match the FP gauge.
The next gauge I am thinking of installin is a transmission pressure gauge.
There already is a transmission temperature gauge on the pillar post.
Also. Between the gauge hole and the coolant temp gauge, in the position of the gauge switch, going to install a red LED light to show when the electro/viscous fan kicks in.
Wires already loaded for such a lamp. I did have a lit up switch where the FP switch now is. I didnt know how annoying an LED coming on, then turning off would be so I had it on a switch so I could turn it off, just the light, not the fan system.
 
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On your gauge pod atop the dash, make you a bottom cover from plexi-glass or wood so you can place some velcro strips to hold it into place. if you use one of those carpet dash covers it will stick without the need of the other strip glued to the dash!
 
dbrannon79 said:
On your gauge pod atop the dash, make you a bottom cover from plexi-glass or wood so you can place some velcro strips to hold it into place. if you use one of those carpet dash covers it will stick without the need of the other strip glued to the dash!
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I have an aluminum cover for the underside.
With the cover on and setting in its position it never moves nor bounces around.
I do wanna get one of them carpeted dash covers though.
 
Went to start the ‘99 with the new Optimizer this am and no start. Just endles spinning with occasional partial light in a cylinder. I’m like WTF!!!! Sat and thought about it and concluded it must be the curse of the Will L. kinked clear return line. So off to ACE hardware to purchase a foot of clear line. Got it installed and it started immediately. I think Will L. is getting back at me for all the teasing on this.

 
Big T said:
Went to start the ‘99 with the new Optimizer this am and no start. Just endles spinning with occasional partial light in a cylinder. I’m like WTF!!!! Sat and thought about it and concluded it must be the curse of the Will L. kinked clear return line. So off to ACE hardware to purchase a foot of clear line. Got it installed and it started immediately. I think Will L. is getting back at me for all the teasing on this.

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Now that is phunny. 😹😹😹
 
Back at it with the FFM on the 93 again! got home from work this evening and popped the hood just to check on it and the oil leak from the oil pump drive. Found the cap seeping fuel on the FFM. the fender wasn't wet but the cap and housing was wet. got my filter wrench and cranked down on the cap almost to the point I felt like it was gonna break. ran the engine a few minutes and it's still seeping! changed out the o-ring I had made back to the square shaped seal it had, and cranked it on some more with the filter wrench, figured if I break the cap I still have the inline filter I can put back on.

still has a slow seepage. not like it was but slowly beads up around the edge of the cap! There is no doubt, this truck is getting a filter housing like I put on the firewall of the 95. I had wanted it back OEM with the heater, but if it's this much trouble to get it sealed, I can do without it.
 
I doubt the fuel heater will help me anyway since I have the facet LP down on the frame and it also has a clear sediment bowl. I will find out later on if the weather get cold enough. I always treat the fuel for the winter anyway.
 
dbrannon79 said:
Back at it with the FFM on the 93 again! got home from work this evening and popped the hood just to check on it and the oil leak from the oil pump drive. Found the cap seeping fuel on the FFM. the fender wasn't wet but the cap and housing was wet. got my filter wrench and cranked down on the cap almost to the point I felt like it was gonna break. ran the engine a few minutes and it's still seeping! changed out the o-ring I had made back to the square shaped seal it had, and cranked it on some more with the filter wrench, figured if I break the cap I still have the inline filter I can put back on.

still has a slow seepage. not like it was but slowly beads up around the edge of the cap! There is no doubt, this truck is getting a filter housing like I put on the firewall of the 95. I had wanted it back OEM with the heater, but if it's this much trouble to get it sealed, I can do without it.
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I have the FFM that I removed from My engine some months, might have been a year or two ago.
I will box it up and mail it offt to You if You would like to stay with the FFM.
I think there might also be a seal kit laying innit but I do’n rightly rememer.
I’ll get out to the garage and getta pic of whuts all there.
 
That might work. I would like to go back to the OEM style filter that had the metal top and removable ring. I can get the filters but have not found the ring for it. I feel like that style would seal better than these aftermarket one piece caps.
 
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