• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

when I did the ones on the 95, it was a booger bear to get them out. had to pull the upper fan shroud off and lift the engine till the trans hit the tunnel on the cab. they barley cleared the cradle on the block. not to mention the contorting I did to get at the bolts up in the frame which had nuts that you could easily drop into the frame and never see again!!
 
Need some advice about the FFM. Take a look at what I found here.

 
when I did the ones on the 95, it was a booger bear to get them out. had to pull the upper fan shroud off and lift the engine till the trans hit the tunnel on the cab. they barley cleared the cradle on the block. not to mention the contorting I did to get at the bolts up in the frame which had nuts that you could easily drop into the frame and never see again!!
I found the wobbly impact 15mm socket and the 15mm ratcheting end wrench to be mighty helpful.
Got them done and that plate switched around. Eldest Boy child come over to give Me a hand.
I had both sides dismounted when He got here. Just a couple bolts holding the mount to the block.
Tonight 6:30 having a surprise burfday party for him at the Yellowstone Tavern, not any where related to that series 🤢🤮 on TV.
He turns 50 on the 23rd.
 
IMG_6384.jpegIMG_6385.jpegIMG_6386.jpegIMG_6387.jpegIMG_6388.jpegIMG_6390.jpegIMG_6391.jpegIMG_6389.jpegSpent Friday clearing up fuel leaks on passenger side due to crappy return lines. Once the leaks were cleaned up, I did a time set and TDCO learn. Ended up at 3.2 actual timing and -1.14 TDCO. Drove it to Napa to return the Power Steering pulley puller tool and had air in the fuel lines the first 3+ miles with the engine stuttering and fish biting. Once that cleared the engine ran perfectly.

Saturday it was time to put some miles on. I chose a loop trip to see Kootenai Falls. Engine again had air in the lines which blew out after about 2 to 3 miles, after which it ran perfectly. There is a stationary bubble at the top of the loop in the clear return line at the IP pump. That line is kinked at the top of the loop and I will replace it this week.

We did a total of 447 miles today. It is very easy to do that in Montana. There is 5/8s left in the tank by the gauge needle. Rough calculation results in 18+ mpg, which is better than the previous engine. Top speed reached was 90 mph momentarily while passing a vehicle doing 60 mph in a 70 mph zone. Last hour of the trip was in the dark, which provided a real test of the LED headlights and they work great. No one flashed me.

Finally, Kootenai falls was cool.
 
One last thing on the truck. The ABS light stayed off the entire trip, which means they are working. I think that when our local mechanic cleaned the chassis ground to address the transfer case shifting, we got the BOGO cure of the ABS. That ABS has not worked continuously since shortly after I bought it.

IMG_6404.jpeg
 
View attachment 90796View attachment 90797View attachment 90798View attachment 90799View attachment 90800View attachment 90801View attachment 90802View attachment 90803Spent Friday clearing up fuel leaks on passenger side due to crappy return lines. Once the leaks were cleaned up, I did a time set and TDCO learn. Ended up at 3.2 actual timing and -1.14 TDCO. Drove it to Napa to return the Power Steering pulley puller tool and had air in the fuel lines the first 3+ miles with the engine stuttering and fish biting. Once that cleared the engine ran perfectly.

Saturday it was time to put some miles on. I chose a loop trip to see Kootenai Falls. Engine again had air in the lines which blew out after about 2 to 3 miles, after which it ran perfectly. There is a stationary bubble at the top of the loop in the clear return line at the IP pump. That line is kinked at the top of the loop and I will replace it this week.

We did a total of 447 miles today. It is very easy to do that in Montana. There is 5/8s left in the tank by the gauge needle. Rough calculation results in 18+ mpg, which is better than the previous engine. Top speed reached was 90 mph momentarily while passing a vehicle doing 60 mph in a 70 mph zone. Last hour of the trip was in the dark, which provided a real test of the LED headlights and they work great. No one flashed me.

Finally, Kootenai falls was cool.
Correction, we use 5/8s tank to go 447 miles.
 
@Big T Where is that chassis ground located?
I will find out where this chassis ground is. To me it’s like trying to find the G-spot.

I will change the Will L clear line today as part of chasing down the air leak. Last time it was on the suction side between the tank and lift pump and everything got replaced. Why it reappeared again while replacing return lines, I don’t know. Can return line cause an air leak in the fuel w/o a fuel leak?
 
Hey guys. Question for y’all. I was digging around in the parts bin I got with this 93 truck and pulled out this steering wheel. It’s in good shape other than the top has separated from the inner steel so I would like to try injecting some glue to fix but that same area is also saturated with some used motor oil. Is there any way to wash the oil out before I try the glue?


IMG_5661.jpeg
 
Replace the Will L clear line. The old one broke apart during removal. Due to the cold weather, I had to boil the new line in the microwave to get it pliable. Yes I blow dried inside to dry the water out. There is no way to avoid the kink in the hose. I tried various lengths. Did get rid of the permanent bubble. Only had two very slight hiccups in the first 1/3 mile and then it was clear:


Headed to Walmart for more oil for its 500 mile oil change.
 
@Big T run you a longer loop. it looks like the return piping is closer to the IP that it normally would be. not an issue though, just add about 8 extra inches of length and loop it around the turbo oil feed hose and you should be good without a kink.
 
I have the steering wheel soaking in a pan of water with some dawn soap and two dishwasher pods to try and break up the motor oil in the foam rubber. I had cleaned the surface but if you squeeze your hand on it your hands start turning black and feel oily. I don't want to use too harsh of a chemical that would eat the foam rubber on it.

if this works I will chuck it to my drill and spin dry it out like a sponge and let set for a few days. then I can try injecting some of that gorilla glue into it, the kind that expands as it dries so the rubber will adhere to the inner steel again.

I was looking online at aftermarket steering wheels but they are so expensive. found one with mahogany wood rather than the standard foam rubber that I liked for $70. only issue is it's just the wheel only, no adapter to attach to the column. it's just as much for the adapter hub as it is for the wheel!!

the 93 has a wheel from an 87 GMC Jimmy or S-10 on it now but the outer covering is falling apart. the PO had done a leather cover on it that is also coming apart slowly. I like that style of wheel but prefer them in one solid piece LOL Maybe I can find something else from a JY that would look good in there.

Thought about looking for one similar to newer factory wheels too. I like the older ones with the hard plastic that are less prone for wear and easy to clean.

When I do find something to replace it with or successfully get the original one fixed up, I need to pull the lock plate and replace the plastic doodad for the horn button too.
 
Once I get that sorted out I also want to attempt something on the drivers seat foam on the bottom. I can't find any replacements for the older pre-94 seats that won't break the bank. the fabric is not torn just has some wear. the foam at the drivers door has collapsed for age and getting in and out of the door.

has anyone had experience with working with the bucket seat bottom foams for these older trucks?

IMG_5662.jpg
 
Back
Top