• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

dbrannon79 said:
Well, my blower fan is back on the fritz again! I found that when I run it on low it will randomly stop blowing! turning the switch to med will get it going again and then quits again a few miles down the road. later on the issue rared its ugly face to me!! the blower motor started to squeal!! time to replace. also noticed that my AC compressor button will flash the light if just bumping the blower switch while it's in the off position. not sure what's happening there. maybe the blower switch is going bad too.
Click to expand...
Yeah, if it's the Factory original blower motor it's most likely on life support. Those intermittent spurts of running could also be what contributed to the death of the resistor pack, too.
 
J_dude said:
Hmm, the blower motor in my dad’s ‘96 with the 5.7 vortec has been squealing intermittently for probably 8 years, is that something to be concerned about?
Click to expand...
Yeah, it means that most likely the front motor shaft bushing is on its way out or already morte. When it gets really bad, you'll hear the squirrel cage rubbing on the plenum and it often times won't blow on the lowest setting unless you "give it a kick" by starting it at higher speeds then turning it down. The current draw gets too bad from being energized and not turning, it'll definitely start burning out speed resistors one at a time, starting with the lowest speed.
 
Husker6.5 said:
Yeah, it means that most likely the front motor shaft bushing is on its way out or already morte. When it gets really bad, you'll hear the squirrel cage rubbing on the plenum and it often times won't blow on the lowest setting unless you "give it a kick" by starting it at higher speeds then turning it down. The current draw gets too bad from being energized and not turning, it'll definitely start burning out speed resistors one at a time, starting with the lowest speed.
Click to expand...
Interesting, that’s probably why I only have the high speed in my 6.5 then... although it doesn’t squeal
 
J_dude said:
Interesting, that’s probably why I only have the high speed in my 6.5 then... although it doesn’t squeal
Click to expand...
May still have a bit of the factory
"Lubed for life" grease left on the shaft somewhere. Could also be that yours hasn't worn out the bushing, yet, and it's all in the resistor pack being burned out.
 
I have always thought someone would make an aftermarket brushless motor for these rigs, but I haven't found one yet. even as lots complain about the blowing power no one has made a brushless higher rpm fan for them!
 
I must be having power gremlins in my truck lately! the last two days in a row when I leave from work going home Ill open the door, turn the key on and while I'm waiting for the glows to warm up I try to roll the drivers window down. no go!! the window button won't work at all till I get the truck started. strange. not sure if I should go after the window switch or the ignition switch. not unless there are some hidden relays in the cab somewhere I need to look for.
 
ak diesel driver said:
I had the diode pop on one and all I had was high. Fan was still fine.
Click to expand...
Tripped a brake code.
When the 2WAL first came out. Some guywith fan speed on high, traveling along, romped the brakes and instantly shut off the ignition switch.
That a tion caused it to trip the 2WAL code of some sort, dont remember what the code was.
It was an instructor telling us about this.
He then sort of mentioned that He could not think of a scenario where such as this would happen.
I raised My hand, He said yes, I replied, antelope hunters. 😹😹😹😹
The heater motor when on high, the ignition switch turned off, reverts the motor to a generator, if the brake pedal is applied at the same time, voltage from the motor runs the 2WAL system and trips the code.
That is the reason a diode was included in the blower motor system.
Too much bridge under the water for me to remember further details. 😹😹😹
 
dbrannon79 said:
I must be having power gremlins in my truck lately! the last two days in a row when I leave from work going home Ill open the door, turn the key on and while I'm waiting for the glows to warm up I try to roll the drivers window down. no go!! the window button won't work at all till I get the truck started. strange. not sure if I should go after the window switch or the ignition switch. not unless there are some hidden relays in the cab somewhere I need to look for.
Click to expand...
Glows are sucking the juice out of the wires.
Not enough left to flow to the window wires. 🤷‍♂️😹😹😹
 
Driving back home after church services Saturday evening. Ambient temps well below zero. Cruising about 70.
Running a mix of no. 1 diesel, 8 gallons to what was already in the tank plus an added 12 gallons of no 2 with a cloud temp of -18 degrees.
Cruising right along and the SES lamp illuminates, gauges all running normal and temp gauge a little below 190 degrees.
I get home and leave the truck engine run. Get the Autel app connected to the ALDL adapter, get it all set up and read codes.
No codes. WHAT ?
I close out of the app, reboot, back to read codes, no codes present. SES lamp still illuminated so I tap the clear codes. SES lamp immediately extinguishes.
I dont know what that was all about.
Have not taken the truck out to see if the SES lamp would illuminate again. It will have to wait for the next time I hit the road.
Thats all. 😹
 
This cold weather has created some odd vibrations in the cab lately, I also noticed some oil drips on the driveway. Crawled under the front end to have peak at what was happening only to find some oil seepage on the oil cooler lines. I tried re-tightening all the clamps on the rubber hoses I replaced a while back but I think it's getting time to have some new oil cooler lines made. also thinking about the HB and pulley replacement soon. they both look ok still but ya just never know.

what's everyone doing nowadays for making new oil cooler lines? I had thought about some hydraulic hose but not sure how that all gets connected to the cooler.

as for the HB and pulley. if she will last until the spring, I will look at making a weekend of it and do the timing chain too since I'll already be half way there. will have to look for the Delco HB, last time I looked, RA only showed the Chineesium ones. might have no choice but to spend funds on the fluidamber, though this engine might not be worth that expense.
 
Yesterday I bought a pack of 25 aluminum spacers on eBay that were 5/8 OD 1/4 ID and 1/2” long so I can use them on the rocker arm shaft area to replace the pesky GM retainers.I have new clevite rocker shafts and genuine GM rockers so I plan to use grade 8 bolts and self locking nuts inside the shafts as I’ve done in the past.Here’s a picture of the type of spacer I purchased.I think it’ll work out just fine…
 

Attachments

  • F888308C-5757-4A11-A7EE-5F6DA1DBAA66.jpeg
    F888308C-5757-4A11-A7EE-5F6DA1DBAA66.jpeg
    34.9 KB · Views: 2
dbrannon79 said:
This cold weather has created some odd vibrations in the cab lately, I also noticed some oil drips on the driveway. Crawled under the front end to have peak at what was happening only to find some oil seepage on the oil cooler lines. I tried re-tightening all the clamps on the rubber hoses I replaced a while back but I think it's getting time to have some new oil cooler lines made. also thinking about the HB and pulley replacement soon. they both look ok still but ya just never know.

what's everyone doing nowadays for making new oil cooler lines? I had thought about some hydraulic hose but not sure how that all gets connected to the cooler.

as for the HB and pulley. if she will last until the spring, I will look at making a weekend of it and do the timing chain too since I'll already be half way there. will have to look for the Delco HB, last time I looked, RA only showed the Chineesium ones. might have no choice but to spend funds on the fluidamber, though this engine might not be worth that expense.
Click to expand...
A Fluidampr can always be saved and reused or sold
 
jrsavoie said:
A Fluidampr can always be saved and reused or sold
Click to expand...
That’s true.I had a fluidampr on my 87 6.2 at one point in time but just decided to sell it and stick with acdelco.I asked for 1/2 of what it was new at the time but nowadays the fluidampr is almost a grand in cdn dollars in some places.I still think that’s a ridiculous price considering they were only $450 a couple years ago.
 
I haven't looked at what current prices are thinking they were just under $500. I surely hope they're not a grand now!! I might have to go a different route until more funds are available!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top