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What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

Not my '99 Suburban, but it's smaller cousin the 4Runner. Something rattling/rolling in the rear hatch when lifting it. Handle was loose. Figured nut had fallen off. Pulled the interior cover (becoming expert at this stuff) and found a flange nut in the bottom on the driver's side. The other nut on the handle was barely on the stud. Got everything tightened up and put back together. Took about 20 minutes.

Next up, pull the front bumper cover and replace the brackets with upgraded brackets per Toyota TSB. Then head down to SoCal with a stop in SLC to get some sutures pulled.
 
Walked, yes walked (1.5 miles on the meter) the 2.5 blocks over to my son’s house to catch up with him. He said that he’s put a couple hundred miles on the ‘94 Suburban since I last installed the forged LCAs and it’s running well and the steering radius is shortened.

I did notice oil spotting under the transfer case, which we’ll probably need to address at some point. Transfer case itself is working fine. I assume we have to pull the case and replace seals? How difficult is that job? I’m bored and looking for things to work on.
 
And if that's the case (no pun intended) that the rear transmission seal is leaking (which is fairly common with high mileage) and allowing tranny fluid to be slowly pumped into the X-fer case, your X-fer case "leak" may not be a leak at all! It is most likely the over-full case is burping excess fluid through the scintered bronze vent plug on top of the case and then down the sides of the case and dripping on the ground.

Try removing the upper "fill" plug in the X-fer case, let it drain down to the "Full" level, reinstall the plug, clean the case off then drive it for a few hundred miles and see if you can see any signs of leakage from either the rear driveshaft or front driveshaft seals on the X-fer case before just pulling it for a rebuild. Could save yourself a bunch of unnecessary labor.
 
And if that's the case (no pun intended) that the rear transmission seal is leaking (which is fairly common with high mileage) and allowing tranny fluid to be slowly pumped into the X-fer case, your X-fer case "leak" may not be a leak at all! It is most likely the over-full case is burping excess fluid through the scintered bronze vent plug on top of the case and then down the sides of the case and dripping on the ground.

Try removing the upper "fill" plug in the X-fer case, let it drain down to the "Full" level, reinstall the plug, clean the case off then drive it for a few hundred miles and see if you can see any signs of leakage from either the rear driveshaft or front driveshaft seals on the X-fer case before just pulling it for a rebuild. Could save yourself a bunch of unnecessary labor.

Now I'm getting excited because I have mechanic work to do!

At my follow-up visit with the surgeon, I present a Reasonable Accommodations Request Form wherein I asked for permanent remote work status due to my foot condition and the 3.5 miles of walking and stairs I navigate on my commute via rail and light rail to LA. He would not agree to permanent saying that is a discussion I need to have with my employer, but he did sign off on temporary remote until my next follow-up the first week of February. As a result, I will have some more time on the docket to address things on vehicles.

When I was under the truck moving crossmembers to get the LCAs to drop down, I noted the transfer case was heavily coated with a plume of caked on dirt from a leak. IIRC it was mostly from the front of the case, but some from the upper fill plug. I removed a skid plate under the transfer case and it had a thick coating of caked on oil-soaked dirt that I had to scrub with degreaser and pressure wash to remove. So I think we are onto something here. I need to have another look under the truck and check the transfer case and fluid level. Will also check the ATF fluid level.
 
I drove the ‘73 Bronco on Sunday. My son had installed power steering on it and wow what a difference that makes. He has a fuel injection kit that he’ll install on the motor, getting rid of the thirsty 4 barrel carb.

Longer term there is talk of getting a new body pan due to rust on the existing. I would have that shipped to Montana were there is no sales tax. Have my local mech Install it using his lift and then paint it back at my place. We’ll be doing practice paint work on the Suburbans to get that process down.

The prices they are asking for restorations on these is insane. They want $250k for this one. I really the matt paint job on it. Leather interior and wood in the bed is a pass. The gauge cluster is cool.
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I love the old broncos. I hate the rising value in things like this or my hummer.
The reason it is there in the first place is the use-ability of it. You can run down any location and not worry about it. Now its value is no longer what it can do or how well it does it- but how many duckets can I get for it. So then they rarely get used for the one thing they were really good at.

Like a claw hammer that no one uses because they might break the handle.
 
Identified a cracked ear on lower intake so, cleaned up an older, non-extrude honed, lower intake manifold and an oil pan for engine reassembly. Intake was powdercoated so need to do anything. Old pan...long story. replacement unit had some rust on the outside and bare metal so it got sanded down, POR-15 applied, primed then top coated. Packed up and shipped off to WA where the work is being done by an adult.IMG_6343.JPGIMG_6348.JPG
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Lower intake packed in securely.
A foam board was placed overtop.
Oil pan was secured to cardboard, placed on top of the intake's foam then bubble wrapped.
More foamboard and box was cut down to fit, folded, taped up and UPS'd outa here.
 
I would have thought he would have got rid of it
Read the latest drama here:

 
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