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What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

Big T said:
Watching videos on this and I need to remove the torsion key bolts. I have the tool to hold the torsion keys. Just paint a white mark on the torsion key bolts so you know how far back they go in on the reinstall.

Once I drop these things, it’s time for grinder w/ cut off wheel to cut them off the bars. Once they are off, the reinstall should go fairly quick. The forged ones never stick to the torsion bars.

This work just beats you up and I am using a cordless impact on most bolts.
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I am surprised that no one responded to Your questions.
I am thinking that possibly no one has had to change out LCA bushing afore.
 
Did I tell you this job is a PITA? To get the torsion bars and LCAs to drop down, I had to undo the transmission mount cross member and the torsion bar cross member. I’m cutting through with a grinder, but burned up the 20-year old Craftsman. Bought a Milwaukee replacement and a bunch more wheels. Looks like I will have to cut both sides as it won’t pry apart.

EADE25D9-2283-4794-A5A5-05FB43F7A86C.jpeg07EA2476-9AAA-4F3A-A194-27405C79F965.jpeg
 
Ya gotta love rust! if you've got a map gas torch or braising torch you might try hitting it with some heat then the freeze off stuff to do a quick cool down. that will usually break the rust loose, then it's hammer time!
 
Will L. said:
We expect to see a picture of it finished with the sunrise in the background!
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What slowed me down was the studying of what I had to take off next in order to get the torsion bars and LCAs to drop. It should go back together much faster. Also there was that moment of truth when I started cutting, because there was no going back.
 
Big T said:
My son bought that box from Heath. It uses an round filter. The lid on it was held in place by pins and magnets, but it slides off all the time. I have a K-47 on my ‘99.
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My air box came with Velcro to help keep the lid in place. About 1/2 inch in dia. Have had it on for several years, still holding. Not sure which filter or the source for manufacture though.

When I get the truck running again, rather, when Bill gets it running, I'm installing another bumper like that old one.
 
Paveltolz said:
My air box came with Velcro to help keep the lid in place. About 1/2 inch in dia. Have had it on for several years, still holding. Not sure which filter or the source for manufacture though.

When I get the truck running again, rather, when Bill gets it running, I'm installing another bumper like that old one.
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Where does the velcro get applied? On top of the lid and on the sides?

I’ll take care it while it’s in my driveway.
 
Yesterday I cleaned the engine and bay so I don’t need a tetanus shot bolting up stuff that’s only held on by a bolt or nut to test start. Lower and upper intakes etc.
Today the bolts and nuts go on. Spare parts go in a box and Friday, it gets towed off.
 

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dbrannon79 said:
Ya gotta love rust! if you've got a map gas torch or braising torch you might try hitting it with some heat then the freeze off stuff to do a quick cool down. that will usually break the rust loose, then it's hammer time!
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Once I got the driver side LCA cut through on one side, I drenched it in WD40, let it sit and cut through the back side. Bit of crow bar work and bashing with the BFH and off it came. On the passenger side, just cut both sides and bashed with the BFH.

One benefit of the forged LCAs not to underestimate is the the ease of installing and removing the sway bar links. Another is that they never rust to the torsion bars. Hoping the final benefit is shorter turning radius. Specs point to 4’ shorter turning radius.

I will donate the old LCAs to the pick a part boneyard, but it’s too late to collect the f’n core charge.
 
dbrannon79 said:
Hey Guys, just an off the wall question... all the talk on a couple of threads about Pensacola diesel, that PMD I scored from the pick a part yard is from them. how good are these compared to the cheap ones? I had already tested it and it seems to work, only ran the truck on it for about 30 minutes on a trip into town.

I'm thinking about mounting it with the heatsink it came with into the front bumper as a ready spare or run it and use my current one (amazon chineesium) as the spare. should I be able to trust it to be a better quality PMD to the one I have?
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If it came with extension harness check end for bad crimps caused me a lot of headaches till we found it and they would not replace it.
 
Got the LCAs bolted in, crossmembers and front differential installed and ran out of light. Steering knuckles, wheel bearings, CV axles, shocks, sway bar links brakes left to do. Will also change front diff fluid as I dumped some on removal. Also bleed the brakes.957CCFB1-E425-4582-BDED-561F7C95127D.jpeg
 
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