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What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

dbrannon79 said:
be weary of moog! their quality has diminished greatly over the years. I had replaced all the upper and lower control arm assemblies on my truck. had one lower ball joint lock up on me and ended up just replacing the joint with a delco one because I didn't want to go through removing the control arm and dealing with the coil spring again.
Click to expand...

I've had good luck with Moog. I know they bought another brand and those are made in China, but their top models are made in the USA. I returned Mevotech control arm bushings because they were the wrong part, but when I had them side-by-side with Moog, the Moogs were clearly superior. I did install Mevotech tie rods on the 4Runner and they looked and are performing fine.
 
I've gone though three Moog idler arms due to them getting sloppy "up and down" movement, my 4th one that's on the truck now is getting slop in it too. only reason I haven't replaced it yet is because I want to find something heavier duty but don't want to shell out the $$ for the RV style ones that have roller bearings. the arm part is fine, it's the shaft assembly that seems to get play. once I replace this one I am tempted to hack it apart to see what they are using inside. I am leaning toward seeing nylon or a soft bushing that can't handle side load. I almost think that it shouldn't be too hard to diy something with bearings, something like sliding the shaft through a pipe with roller bearings, where the pipe is welded to the bracket that gets bolted to the truck frame.
 
Big T said:
I've had good luck with Moog. I know they bought another brand and those are made in China, but their top models are made in the USA. I returned Mevotech control arm bushings because they were the wrong part, but when I had them side-by-side with Moog, the Moogs were clearly superior. I did install Mevotech tie rods on the 4Runner and they looked and are performing fine.
Click to expand...
I agree. I have never replaced anything twice with installed Moog parts. Of course they still need good grease and I use TRC grease from Texas Refinery. Been using it for 40 years and never found anything else that comes close. 100lb Timken load. If you get it in your hair, good luck getting it out.
 
Got one knuckle reamed for the ES 409RT tie rod. Doing it with a cordless hand drill and the 1.5" per ft or 7-degree ream. Goes slow at first, but as it gets close, the depth increases fast, so you need to check the thread depth like every 15 seconds. I set it to where the cotter pin will just make it through with the castle nut locked down.

Just taking a little break before doing the other knuckle.
 
I just finished doing axle seals, wheel cylinders, and brakes on '98 K1500. Got started on it this morning and finished after church. My power steering pump is leaking so replacing that's next while I'm waiting for my transmission to get done.
 
Finished reaming the second knuckle. I can say without question, reaming the knuckle for the ES409RT tie rod end is the much better way to go on the GMT-800 brake conversion over the machined threaded adaptor. Reaming the knuckle for the tie rod takes less than 20 minutes for each one and you get a superior connection with no play like I had with the adaptor. I used a small cordless drill and used the matrix portion of a table saw table to hold the knuckle.
 
I finally got tired of my alternator having a temper tantrum. it has always been charging, but sometimes it would be just under the 14 on the gauge, other times stay on the 14, then at times after starting it up it wouldn't charge until I touched the gas pedal.

I pulled it and re-installed the bigger alternator I had gotten from the bone yard at least until I have a chance to warranty this one out.


since I was having issues with the belt slipping off when wet, after I installed it, I took a straight edge ruler and checked the alignment of it against the power steering pulley and the tensioner, eyeballed it against the ac compressor too. the alternator seems lined up up good. we shall see how it goes on the next rain and puddle splash lol.
 
Moog has had knock off parts for a long time now. They never updated the page from 2018, but since then the crooks have started copying the packaging.
Same song I sing a lot: make sure you buy from an authorized dealer.
I bought some of the knock off moog joints for my hummer wanna guess from which supplier? Still gonna run them when they are needed but not going back to that supplier next go round.
 
Back when I first started working on my steering issues I bought some Delco tie rods off Amazon. The other day I was feeling some slop in the steering again. Looking at it I found one of the inner tie rods I got has a little slop in the joint now
 
Will L. said:
Moog has had knock off parts for a long time now. They never updated the page from 2018, but since then the crooks have started copying the packaging.
Same song I sing a lot: make sure you buy from an authorized dealer.
I bought some of the knock off moog joints for my hummer wanna guess from which supplier? Still gonna run them when they are needed but not going back to that supplier next go round.
Click to expand...


www.moogparts.eu

Scan to Get More!

By simply scanning the code with a smartphone’s camera, those installing the product enjoy a host of benefits and even the opportunity to learn new skills that will last a lifetime.
www.moogparts.eu www.moogparts.eu
 
That number system is cool. Someone is a smart puppy.

But now think for a minute: why would they spend all that time and money to enact and maintain that numbering system and i.t. department issues if it wasn’t a very frequent and serious problem?

cko parts is a huge issue folks. Places like moog getting bad name when they have been the best in the world on many parts for years.
 
Will L. said:
That number system is cool. Someone is a smart puppy.

But now think for a minute: why would they spend all that time and money to enact and maintain that numbering system and i.t. department issues if it wasn’t a very frequent and serious problem?

cko parts is a huge issue folks. Places like moog getting bad name when they have been the best in the world on many parts for years.
Click to expand...

MOOG = Federal Mogul
 
Got the driver’s side put back together. Too cold to work in the morning. Then had a 2.5 hour video meeting. Once they were done with the firm I worked on, I left it on, muted and video off, and went out to work on the truck. Typical suspension work: heavy and things go back slow. Hands ache from heavy torquing and I’m using a cordless impact wherever I can. I eyeballed the upper control arm adjusting bolts based on iPhone photos taken before I removed the old ones. They got synthetic grease for brake parts.

I will work on the other side tomorrow. I have to replace the boots on the CV axle for that side, which will be my warm up. Last part will be replacing tie rods on both sides. I did not have to remove the sway bar bolts to get the CV axles out, but did have to remove it to get the CV axle back in.
 
Replaced CV boots during first video call of the day (muted, video off). Did the job inside the house on card board. Pulling the axle out of the C-clip is like sex in that it’s a two person job: Me spreading the clip and pulling the axle, while my wife holds the hub. Rest is pretty easy. Pics of axle and current state of the work.
E3DE5B06-59F2-484C-B392-A4EB90816450.jpegB8A9C68F-A33E-4D6D-B044-2459712C77DD.jpeg54D2A05E-BA94-4865-B404-568CFB3BDCD6.jpeg
 
After replacing boots on the CV axle, I could not get it in on the passenger side. Ironically, that was the easiest axle to get out. I can get part of it past the differential flange, but not all of it. The end plate pops off exposing the innards. It's as if the axle gained some length after doing the boot job. I ordered a new axle from Napa and should be able to pick it up this evening.
 
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