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What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

MrMarty51 said:
I think if I was going to go to a pick and pack, I would take along one of my many cardboard creepers to lay on.
I would be too lazy to remove a hood to lay on.
Heck, My truck too could use a hood. The one on it is sort of waverly, like someone has pushed, pulled and beat it straight then did a bondo job to cover the rough 💩. 😹😹😹
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I used an upholstery cover to lay on and the wheels to sit on. Had to go back home to retrieve 36mm socket to remove axle nuts. Thought I could separate ball joint from the bottom of the knuckle, but it hits the CV hub when it separates. Also forgot about the rear driver’s side LCA bolt which is impinged by the Differential. Had to undo the differential mounts and pry it out of the way. It was a couple hours of work, but I won.
 
MrMarty51 said:
I think if I was going to go to a pick and pack, I would take along one of my many cardboard creepers to lay on.
I would be too lazy to remove a hood to lay on.
Heck, My truck too could use a hood. The one on it is sort of waverly, like someone has pushed, pulled and beat it straight then did a bondo job to cover the rough 💩. 😹😹😹
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Or maybe someone laid on it like a creeper?
Haha
 
Husker6.5 said:
Or like a hood-lum?
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There are roving Mexicans offering to help on parts removal for pay. It is an interesting commentary on the salvage business. Most of the relatively current, high value cars go to salvagers who part them out. The worst go to Pick a Part boneyards where the cockroaches part them out. Most are just picking easy stuff like dash items and plastic pieces. A few will go for the engine hoists and pull an engine or transmission.
 
Well I started pulling the transmission out of my 1998 K1500 today. I'm going to get this one rebuilt. My brother said there's a local guy that does a pretty good job on them. I have too many irons in the fire right now to rebuild it myself. It's the truck I drive in the winter and right now I have to use my 88 K1500 which is rust free. I did undercoat it with that black "Berkobile" which is similar to "fluid film". Not sure if I spelled that right!
 
I finally got a chance to pull the transmission out of the 98 K1500 yesterday and got it down to the rebuilder. Have had a busy couple weeks with family issues and work. Both are pretty much resolved now so I can get back at some of my projects.
The rebuilder has been doing these for a long time and knows all of the issues with the 4L60E and said it will be much stronger than new when I get it back.
I sure hope so because I'm getting too old to be pulling these on a regular basis!
 
Grisley1958 said:
I finally got a chance to pull the transmission out of the 98 K1500 yesterday and got it down to the rebuilder. Have had a busy couple weeks with family issues and work. Both are pretty much resolved now so I can get back at some of my projects.
The rebuilder has been doing these for a long time and knows all of the issues with the 4L60E and said it will be much stronger than new when I get it back.
I sure hope so because I'm getting too old to be pulling these on a regular basis!
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I'm right behind you on my 4l80e, though I'm not pulling it. Will also be getting a reman transfer case. New urethane engine and transmission mounts.
 
Transfer case is SO EASY to rebuild.
rebuilding them (with rare exception) is really just replacing the chain and the plastic wear caps on the shifting fork. The first time I pulled a t case to rebuild I was in planning on takjng it to a shop. A guy there just laughed and ripped it open and showed me how simple it is, I couldn’t believe it.

I would post a YouTube video but depending which you have, I don’t want to confuse anyone. Np242 or whatever that number is for each of yours- just search it on YouTube.

If you are having a transmission rebuilt- and don’t want to touch it yourself. Ok. But still I would have them redo the T case also.
 
Will L. said:
Transfer case is SO EASY to rebuild.
rebuilding them (with rare exception) is really just replacing the chain and the plastic wear caps on the shifting fork. The first time I pulled a t case to rebuild I was in planning on takjng it to a shop. A guy there just laughed and ripped it open and showed me how simple it is, I couldn’t believe it.

I would post a YouTube video but depending which you have, I don’t want to confuse anyone. Np242 or whatever that number is for each of yours- just search it on YouTube.

If you are having a transmission rebuilt- and don’t want to touch it yourself. Ok. But still I would have them redo the T case also.
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I’m not touching auto transmission or the transfer case. 4Lo has been out for awhile in the transfer case. Don’t you have to replace bearings? Plan is just to get a reman exchange transfer case from the same place doing the transmission.
 
Grisley1958 said:
I finally got a chance to pull the transmission out of the 98 K1500 yesterday and got it down to the rebuilder. Have had a busy couple weeks with family issues and work. Both are pretty much resolved now so I can get back at some of my projects.
The rebuilder has been doing these for a long time and knows all of the issues with the 4L60E and said it will be much stronger than new when I get it back.
I sure hope so because I'm getting too old to be pulling these on a regular basis!
Click to expand...
Ask them if they drill out the bore that feeds ATF to the planetary in the OD unit.
The transmission in my 93 had been rebuilt but the rebuilder did not drill out that bore to increase the flow to the OD and that was what destroyed the transmission.
 
Big T said:
I'm right behind you on my 4l80e, though I'm not pulling it. Will also be getting a reman transfer case. New urethane engine and transmission mounts.
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I had one time drove my 1993 K1500, 350V8 and 4L60E from Helena Montana back to Miles City, a bit over 400 miles and did not realize that I still had the Transfer case locked in 4Hi.
In California after the transmission crapped out in Fernlay Nevada, I told the transmission shop owner that long as the t-Case was out to go through it to.
Later He called and told Me that everything inside the transfer case was like new. They installed new seals, put it back together and I never did have problems with it in over 150,000 miles after that reseal job.
They are some mighty tough units.
 
OK, based on comments here, I would entertain doing the transfer case. I do have the part for the pump rub fix. I have never got a satisfactory explanation here for the 4Lo being out, or how to fix it.
 
Big T said:
I’m not touching auto transmission or the transfer case. 4Lo has been out for awhile in the transfer case. Don’t you have to replace bearings? Plan is just to get a reman exchange transfer case from the same place doing the transmission.
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Not doing it yourself is one choice. Having a different one rebuilt and replacing your is another.
Not diy is always a personal choice and because you are having problems with yours and doing it at same time as transmission makes sense because you have ZERO labor cost for changing the t-case.

Just like r&r transmission for one on the shelf that is a rebuild- if the transmission shop is 100% on point and gets the EXACT same one -great. But I have seen the confusion and complaints when they get one in to replace it that has a slight difference.

So my suggestion is sharpie your initials on it somewhere. then the very day you get it back- go work it hard. 4 hi& low, 2 high and low. Spin tires in turn- think donuts in the dirt all 4 tires spinning. Then hard as possible slow speed turns in 4wd high and low like slalom course with excellent traction.

Your old t-case will sit in their shop a few days before it goes away at most. If there is a problem and they need to reference your old one you want it to be done right away.
When t-case gets done wrong, it usually fails first or second time working hard. So you are better to have it go back right away rather than you don’t work it hard until the end of the warranty. A chain driven rebuilt unit is not a brand new factory build. Only something that seriously broke along with the chain and pads I mentioned earlier are going to be new. The rest will be gears that have 200,000 mile on them from the last shmuck that beat it. So don’t think you are using up some of the good lifespan by doing that on day one.

Idk about the affects on a fresh built transmission and doing that day 1 vs wanting to get every last mile out of it. I do know on brand new trucks with 4l80e behind 6.5 and gassers in the fleet- All those trucks but a couple got beat hard from day 1 and even the ones that we did abuse testing on that never got a single filter/fluid change- they all crushed the 200,000 mile mark. We did many with a fluid change at 60,000 mile intervals and they faired about as well as ones that got it at 30,000. They all went to the 300,000 mile area.
I don’t know of any 4l80e that was worked a little bit here and there and made it to 400,000. So unless @THEFERMANATOR has objection to doing that to the fresh rebuilt transmission and recommends some kind of break in period- thats best recommend I can give.
 
Big T said:
OK, based on comments here, I would entertain doing the transfer case. I do have the part for the pump rub fix. I have never got a satisfactory explanation here for the 4Lo being out, or how to fix it.
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there is YouTubes to show how to do it better than we could type.
as to 4 low- I don’t remember you having a thread on it. But on the bench is pretty easy to see whats right and wrong.

Take a picture of the tag and post it
 
If You sharpie Your brand onto the T-Case, there is a possibility that could get washed off, depending on what solvents they use for cleaning.
Along with the sharpie, in some obscure area, is something sharp and scribe in a couple of marks.
 
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