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What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

@Big T, right at the summit where your last pic was taken, there is a wee little sign about 100 yards off the road. I just had to know what it said, so I ran out to read "Beartooth Wilderness". I was a little disappointed!
 
I detached the transfer case from the 4L80e transmission, moved it onto a pallet, then scrubbed with degreaser and shot with pressure washer. Looked up the specs and the transmission weighs 236 lbs dry, so I guess there’s still some strength in the old body.

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Confirmed with my son that he had only put 12K miles on this before wrecking the truck when he hit some black ice near Panguitch, Utah (Southern Utah near Bryce and Zion National Patks). It’s been sitting in the yard for like 11 years, full of transmission fluid that’s still bright red. So I hope this works.
 
After I bought this truck, almost immediately the PMD failed. Luckily I had ordered a Dorman through Oriellys and it was setting at the parts store waiting for Me to pick it up.
The first trip out with that PMD, the engine would kind of hickup and disengage the cruise control. I went back to Oriellys and told them that the PMD was faulty so they ordered in another one. The second one came in and it had the same problem so they ordered in another one.
During all of this I ordered a Stanadyne grey box unit and the adaptor harness for it. When it got here I put it on.
After the third Dorman unit arrived I had it in the jockey box for the just in case situation.
When the batteries on the truck died, the low voltage killed that Stanadyne PMD so I installed the Dorman unit.
Last Friday was the first road trip since installing that Dorman PMD. Third one
It arrived and I checked to make sure that the engine would run with it. Boxed it up and into the jockey box it went. It was in there until the low voltage took out the Stanadyne unit.
Installed this Dorman and this one, the engine seems to run perfectly fine with it. Made the trip to Billings and return without a hickup or a hitch. Third time must be the charm.
 
Would anyone be interested in buying my old injectors. They are Bosch made in Germany.

I haven't gotten around to messing with the ones I got from @Big T yet. iirc @Rockabillyrat was setting things up to rebuild db2 ip's I'm sure he will need something to use on his test bench or even start into rebuilding injectors too lol. it would always be nice to have an extra set ready to go on hand, then on change out, one could send to a member here to have checked and rebuild for another round. most of the production rebuilders like the ones sold at auto parts places can't be trusted as true rebuilds. sooner or later it's gonna get hard to find parts for our rigs and with quality. having a circle of good folks here horse trading parts and such to keep these old rigs going would be a good thing :)
 
Loaded up for the trip to MT and soon to be installed in the ‘99.
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Who would have thought that the 4L80e harvested from the wrecked ‘95 my son bought back from the insurance company for just $400, would end up in my ‘99? And it only has 12K miles on it.
 
Loaded up for the trip to MT and soon to be installed in the ‘99.
View attachment 72854

Who would have thought that the 4L80e harvested from the wrecked ‘95 my son bought back from the insurance company for just $400, would end up in my ‘99? And it only has 12K miles on it.
Will the electronics be compatible between the years?
 
Replacing the fuel tank and the feeder and return lines to the tank on the ‘94. Found the o-ring missing on the feeder line and shredded on the return line. Also, there is already rust/corrosion on the tank side sender feeder line, so that tank must be really toxic.

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Well new tank and lines, full trip around the block without stalling. Only question is it ok for the fuel pressure to drop to 2 psi at the IP?

That is where I think that there would be an advantage to having a boost/vacuum combination gauge for a fuel pressure gauge. Then if the lift pump ever got weak or something amiss was happening on the pressure side of the fuel lift system, a person could monitor what was happening.
 
It happens. but if you can improve the system it will be better for the ip.

Hitting 2 when empty means when you tow or climbing hard up a hill will probably be into vacuum.

Running low pressure wears out the ip faster. Running into a negative is horribly fast wear.

So keep an eye on it and it is better than hitting vacuum. So long as you are staying in the positive. But keeping a minimum of 8 psi is how to get the longest life from it.

Best I can explain it is like the engine oil.
Having 8 psi is like the oil pan properly full of clean oil.
Having from 1-5 psi is like an oilpan full of oil, that is 3,000 miles over due.
Fuel pressure into vacuum is like being 3 quarts low and what is there is still the old dirty oil.

Going from what you have now vs maintaining minimum of 8psi will double the ip life.
So you decide if the money it takes to improve the lift pump justifies the extended ip life.
It used to be the answer was easily no, because a good used ds4 was $200 and $750 for brand new. Now that new isn’t an option and I have been seeing used ds4 go for $450 you decide.
 
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