What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

[MrMarty51]

How long did it take you to figure out the alignment of the exhaust kit? I tried for several hours to get my diamond eye to line up how I wanted when it comes out behind the back tire. It would never look square behind the tire no matter how I adjusted it. For about a month I have been running the down pipe, the longest piece and the muffler replacement piece. It runs straight to about my axle and that’s it. I gave up trying to make the last couple pieces look good that day and haven’t tried again since. I need to figure it out because there’s a big drone in the cab the way the exhaust is now.

Got any pictures of the alignment of yours coming out behind the tire?

I did like You had done. I just had no way of holding it all together where it routes over the axle. Then took it all to the local muffler/pipe shop and had them finish it.
After installing the ATT system, the pipe now bumps on something. Going to take it back to the shop and let them figure it out.
Here is a phew pics. If You would like a different angle let Me know.

 

[MrMarty51]

Yes, we used those all the time on semi and heavy equipment. Those are really good. Some brands require a little filler piece at the junction of the band- those suck. I prefer the ones that are a little more expensive but don’t have the little separate seal piece.

Yup. The ines We used was the Bandit Clamp. Those are the good ones. We got ours from NAPA but RA might carry them too. If not, might be that @Burning oil might be able to get a discount on the Bandit Clamps provide those to us too. So He too can make a little money from them. I am always willing to help to support our vendors of the forum whenever I can.

 

[snarl95]

replacing water pump

 

[dbrannon79]

Mine never lined up correctly, my tail pipe came out from behind the tire and pointer somewhat forward. i ended up cutting it off and adding a 4 to 6" tip. I'll take some photos and post them later today. I did use a couple if band clamps so I wouldn't crush the pipe and could re-adjust if needed. the down pipe comes out and straightens toward the rear of the truck too low where when the next piece connects and ends up resting on the trans cross member. that I causing some drowning in the cab. I think if I could shorten the down pipe about 2 inches where it comes through between the frame and the engine, it would raise it just enough where it would not rest on the cross member.

 

[Husker6.5]

I always found using a floor jack to support the weight of the front pipe and holding it up against the turbo flange while installing the "V" clamp most helpful, then only tightening the V clamp to friction tight so the down pipe could be adjusted to clear the frame and firewall before final tightening. I used a Heartthrob 4" standard pickup kit on my Burb, had no clearance issues with either the down or intermediate pipes with the frame, firewall or transmission crossmember, modified/made a couple of hangers to work with the Burb mounting points vs p/u, and instead of using their muffler and the over axle and tail pipes, used one of their 4" 45° elbows on the end of the intermediate pipe, angled slightly down, to side dump in front of the rear tire and under the body. The only place the 'drone' was noticeable is sitting in the third row seat, otherwise not that noticeable up front or in the second row, and certainly not if the stereo system was turned up a bit driving down the Interstate. When I get the Burb up and running again (needs new tranny and IP), still debating whether to leave the exhaust as is, installing the axle and tail pipes as a straight through system, or adding in the muffler.

 

[dbrannon79]

Here’s some photos where the down pipe connects to the next pipe and rests on the cross member. And the tail pipe. It’s hard to get a good shot of the down pipe, it’s maybe 1/2” from the frame!

 

[Husker6.5]

Let me throw some shoes on here after the Michigan-Wisconsin game's over and I'll skootch under the Burb and get you a couple of shots of the Heartthrob system and how much clearance I have. Nothing touches or comes close. We play Northwestern tonight, Michigan next week and Wisconsin Nov 10.

 

[Husker6.5]

Been gray and heavy overcast all day, had to use my flashlight to get some light under the Burb. First photo is the Down pipe to Intermediate pipe looking forward.
Next, Intermediate pipe to 45° down turn looking back.
Next, Intermediate pipe over the top of transmission/x-fer case frame cross brace.
Next, a close up of my fabricated exhaust hanger using the stock bracket, rubber hanger and a piece of the OEM metal exhaust prong welded to a 4" exhaust clamp to hold the pipe at the desired height to clear everything.
The next two (lighting and angle suck) are of the Turbo down pipe to frame. It doesn't show up very well, but there's about ⅜" clearance between the Turbo down pipe and the frame rail.

 

[dbrannon79]

Looking at you intermediate pipe. I’m wondering if mine is just turned upside down lol. It wouldn’t take too much to loosen that band clamp and flange at the down pipe Use a filter strap wrench and rotate around! Hmm

 

[Husker6.5]

Looking at you intermediate pipe. I’m wondering if mine is just turned upside down lol. It wouldn’t take too much to loosen that band clamp and flange at the down pipe Use a filter strap wrench and rotate around! Hmm

You know, that's what I was thinking when I saw your photos, but didn't want to say anything to piss you off, but yeah, looks like the Intermediate pipe is 180° off rotationally and might be end for end, too. IIRC (I did the install in 2010 and I'm not crawling under the Burb again this close to kickoff to look) the short end goes forward, the bend lifts the long section up and over the tranny x-member and intermediate frame x-member.

 

[Husker6.5]

That would also go a long ways towards explaining your woes with the axle and tailpipe sections, too.

 

[dbrannon79]

Lol no worries you won’t piss me off. I can’t flip it end to end because of the ball flange is welded to one end of the pipe!

 

[dbrannon79]

When I installed the kit. It was me my self and I lol trying to figure it out without any instructions. Lol. I’m sure something is bound to on there backwards and upside down lol

 

[ak diesel driver]

I was wondering about your sagging motor mounts.......

 

[Jaryd]

my tail pipe came out from behind the tire and pointer somewhat forward.

That’s what mines doing to. No matter how I adjust everything I can not get it to come out square or pointed slightly backwards. If my spare tire wasn’t under the truck it would probably be easier to make it fit square. I can adjust it to where its really close but I’m forcing it against the spare. I don’t want to lose my spare tire so I will have to make do with what I got somehow. I will go out and try it one more time at some point. I’m doing it by myself to. If I cant make it happen next time I try then it’ll probably be going to the muffler shop and let them figure it out

@dbrannon79 Yes the second pipe going over the transmission crossmember is upside down

 

[dbrannon79]

I attempted the motor mounts earlier today with a fail! rigged me up an a-frame from double 2x6's and a heavy ratchet strap along with my floor jack and a block of wood on the pan. I could not get the engine to budge upward without fear of damaging the pan!! i got so far and said this is enough . mounts can wait till i ether get my hands on a hoist or just pay someone to do them for me.

I managed to loosen the intermediate pipe and rotate it about 3/4 around where it's no longer resting on the trans cross member. but if I turn it any further, the connecting pipe behind it starts to rest on the cross member supporting the carrier bearing!!

I think once I get the motor mounts in place I will try again. if nothing else I may be paying a visit to a muffler shop to do it right! I have all the hangers catty-wampus just to hold things so nothing touching the pipe. if anything, after I get the mounts in, I'll do some flex pipe on the down pipe to relieve the stress off the turbo flange, then go visit the muffler shop to have everything lined up proper.

 

[dbrannon79]

the more I look online the more bummed I get seeing that I will probably end up having to pull the lower control arms just to get at the bolts in the frame holding the mounts. Unless Yall have some tips and tricks to do on mine lol

 

[Husker6.5]

Stupid question, but did you remove the through bolts on the mounts before trying to raise the motor? I just used a scrap piece of 12" square ¾" plywood on top of the cradle of my 3½ Ton floor jack to spread the weight out evenly on the pan, and after I pulled the through bolts, it was no problem lifting the motor about 4" or so and sticking a 12 ton jack stand under the harmonic balancer to be a safety. Access to the frame bolts wasn't bad at all after that. Same with reinstall, getting my ⅜ drive torque wrench in to snug them down was no biggie, either.

 

[dbrannon79]

I only removed one of the through bolts (passenger side). Had a heavy ratchet strap pulling up on the front of the engine and my shop size floor Jack with a piece of 2x8 on the pan I put as much tension on the ratchet as I could and then while laying under the truck slowly went up with the jack. Truck would start going up but never saw any movement from the mount. I got paranoid thinking i was going to damage the pan.

maybe if I get my hands on a come along to use instead of a ratchet strap I’ll have better luck and feel better rather than using the jack.

 

[Husker6.5]

Try taking out BOTH through bolts, the motor won't "rock" to one side because the transmission mount won't allow rotation left/right if only one's removed (you still have two points of contact), but will allow you to lift the front of the engine if both front bolts are out. So, run out to the garage and work a couple of more hours, or there's your Sunday project!